• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Front Axle Options

Maybe this is a low pinion D30 vs. high pinion D30 issue? I didn't think at the time that was the limiting factor with mine, but I suppose it's possible...

no. the mounts are identical on HP vs LP.

even with having ONLY the 4 control arms hooked up it may still be difficult to slip the springs out. the stock control arms hit the coil mount and limit droop. this is an issue that aftermarket arms address with either a bend in the tube or offsetting the tube on the joint.

ive never used compressors... there is usually enough room to wiggle a pry bar in there and muscle the coil over the mount and slip it out.
 
So I've been hunting for a D30 for days now. I've found a handful on HP's but none of them are in usable condition. I don't see the point in buying one that needs a ton of work, I could just rebuild mine. Any of you guys have any or know of places in MI? I'm in Genesee county and will drive 3-4 hours in any direction for the right deal. I've checked Facebook, Craigslist, called several yards in this area and nothing worth pulling the trigger on. I'm going to start looking in other major areas but thought I'd put the word out.
 
So I've been hunting for a D30 for days now. I've found a handful on HP's but none of them are in usable condition. I don't see the point in buying one that needs a ton of work, I could just rebuild mine. Any of you guys have any or know of places in MI? I'm in Genesee county and will drive 3-4 hours in any direction for the right deal. I've checked Facebook, Craigslist, called several yards in this area and nothing worth pulling the trigger on. I'm going to start looking in other major areas but thought I'd put the word out.

have you used car-parts.com?
you could also post a wanted add on greatlakes4x4.com

i am in macomb county myself.
 
Any tips on which upper control arm bushings to use? Found a few flavors of Moog: K3128 & K3162. I'm assuming the K3162 are more better, right :laugh:
 
Cheapo 80w-90 is fine. 75w-90 synth if it makes you feel better, or if you feel you need "heavy duty" then 85w-140 or 75w-140 synth. Brand isn't that important.
 
I think they changed the bushings slightly for the WJ arms--same diameters but there are nipples on the inner sleeve to prevent it from seizing to the bolt. I think.

I found those same dimpled bushings inside my wife's 94ZJ last year when I did the arm upgrade.
 
Cheapo 80w-90 is fine. 75w-90 synth if it makes you feel better, or if you feel you need "heavy duty" then 85w-140 or 75w-140 synth. Brand isn't that important.

Cool, I just snagged a jug of Carquest 80W-90. Found an axle with 24K miles in a local yard. This weekend should be fun! Got all new Moog steering parts to bolt on too. Just found all the torque specs. Please correct if any of these are wrong:

Dana 30 diff cover - 30 ft/lbs
LCA to axle - 85 ft/lbs
UCA to axle - 55 ft/lbs
All TRE's - 35 ft/lbs
Adjustment sleeves - 14 ft/lbs
Shocks to axle - 17-20 ft/lbs
Driveshaft to T-case - 14 ft/lbs
Driveshaft to axle - 13-18 ft/lbs
Caliper bolts - 30 ft/lbs
Lugs - 85 ft/lbs

Steering Gear box to frame - 65 ft/lbs

I had to dig for this info so maybe it'll come in handy to someone reading this.
 
What would you guys do to protect this axle from further rust? Just some wash it down wit some Super Clean and then a rattle can job?

I have some of this sitting around
9fc33108-5216-431c-b9ef-33e076b49cca_1000.jpg


Been waiting for a project to try it on.
 
Last edited:
I just spray a coat Fluid Film on a couple times a year. If there's any initial rust scale, that would be wire brushed first. I wouldn't do more than that unless I was disassembling for a build or upgrade and had time and space for proper finish prep. Fluid film does a great job of stopping corrosion.
 
Last edited:
Degrease, wire wheel, OsPho. Then shoot it with Rustoleum Hammered Finish (prime and paint in one) and run it.
 
I got the old D30 pulled Friday night. Started fresh early Saturday morning with a wash and degrease, then ran to town for replacement shock mounting bolts and incorrect UCA bolts that the PO slapped in there. Rusty metal primed it and finished with blacked hammered. Got it in and waited overnight to fill the diff with oil. All new Moog steering parts went on good and did a driveway alignment. She purrs right along at 70 now, I wouldn't go much over 55 before.

Now I have a bumper to paint and get put on! Hopefully the steering gear box bolts don't give me any lip.
 
Back
Top