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Best way to prep rusty expanded metal for paint

smcdonaldaz

NAXJA Forum User
I have some expanded metal I'd like to lay in the bottom of my roof rack. It's lightly rusted and I need to know the least labor intensive way to prep it for paint. All ideas appreciated!
 
smcdonaldaz said:
I have some expanded metal I'd like to lay in the bottom of my roof rack. It's lightly rusted and I need to know the least labor intensive way to prep it for paint. All ideas appreciated!

They make "flap wheels" that you can chuck into a drill motor - the "flaps" are small bits of sandpaper, fastened at one end. That should be about the easiest way to give the panel a good sanding.

Once you've sanded the loose rust off, wash it with HOT soapy water, and leave in the sun. Spray paint when dry.

Don't leave it out too long - just go until it's dry and able to take primer. Using hot water will help it dry that much faster, so you have it uncoated for a shorter time.
 
i cant find the link. but there was a thing on TRUCKS that you could use a bucket of water backing soda and a battery charger. no labor at all. could take a few days thats all
 
userbmx1315 said:
i cant find the link. but there was a thing on TRUCKS that you could use a bucket of water backing soda and a battery charger. no labor at all. could take a few days thats all

You would need a pretty big bucket to put your jeep in :D
 
yea. i wasnt thinking about the jeep. i was thinking about small parts. hahahaha. maybe the roof rack. but you will need you kids swimming pool, :)
 
Use a wire brush on it.Then spray permatex rust killer on it and let it dry for 24hrs then hit it with primer/paint.
In my experience if you dont completely remove the rust or chemical convert it it will rear its ugly head again.
Case in point:My floor board....I used that paint over rust paint that is supposed to stop rust.It didn't,thats why I'm in the process of stripping all the paint off and grinding/chemically treating it before the herculiner goes on.
 
outlander said:
Use a wire brush on it.Then spray permatex rust killer on it and let it dry for 24hrs then hit it with primer/paint.
In my experience if you dont completely remove the rust or chemical convert it it will rear its ugly head again.
Case in point:My floor board....I used that paint over rust paint that is supposed to stop rust.It didn't,thats why I'm in the process of stripping all the paint off and grinding/chemically treating it before the herculiner goes on.
POR 15?

You need to neutralize the rust before using the por
 
Sandblast it.
 
I second the sandblasting.....

We had some expanded metal grates for the our teardown tables at Detriot Diesel, when they got too nasty, we threw them in the hot caustic tank for a half hour, when they come out they have surface rust due to the caustic soda, we then took them to the sandblaster to get the rust off, then we would mark (paint) where each engine should sit on the grate for easier teardown.....
 
Sandblasting would be best, but not everyone has a sandblaster. Damn near everyone has a drill motor.

However, I didn't suggest using a wire wheel for a good reason - ever have one get caught in expanded metal? A good drill motor can send a half-sheet of that stuff flying, if you're not careful. The "flap wheel" shouldn't get caught in the stuff - I've used it before with good results.
 
Muriatic acid is the trick:firedevil
It's like phosphoric acid but WAY stronger. Don't use indoors!
And neutralize with water after the rust is gone, or the metal will disappear.:D
 
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