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custom battery cables...

red91

NAXJA Forum User
In an attempt to try and do it myself I'm wondering the following...

cable ratings...

1 is bigger than 2, but 2/0 is bigger than both. Which to use ??

Also Can I piggyback the new over the old, or...cut the exisiting ends off and install new cable or...Completely take apart the harness and work it that way?

Who's done what ?? Help please...
 
I did all of mine myself and got all the stuff from Napa, I used 1 gauge and the solder on ends when I hooked up my dual batteries.
 
bgcntry72 said:
This is what you want.
I got these when they first came out.
Amazing difference in charging system and start times.
HTH.


I've seen those. I'm just wondering if I can go over the existing cables or if I should disect a donor wiring loom to install into first before I take the one from my rig out.

decisions...

thanks man. apreciate the help.
 
I made my own, using 2/0 welder cable and terminals from the local welding supply house - but I'm a firm believer in overkill and I had the cable around anyhow.

I'd suggest using about a 1 gage welding cable (should be a touch less than $1/foot) and terminals, and run three grounds while you're at it (one to the engine block, one to the chassis sheetmetal, and a smaller one to the back of the alternator case.) Get enough cable to replace that useless little braided ground strap from the cylinder head to the firewall while you're at it as well.

All in all, this really is the best way to do the job - especially since you'll already have the crimper for when your buddies want cables... (it's perfectly acceptable to make a little money, even when charging mate's rates.)

If memory serves, I used 2/0 for everything except the alternator ground, which got some 4 gage I had lying about.

Once you handle welder cable, you'll never go back. It's solid, flexes and routes easily, and will take anything the underhood environment can throw at it and just grin back. Good stuff.

5-90
 
Please guys...did you take out your exisiting cable before the conversion, or did you just overlap, or cut it out ???

the only remaining question...

thanks guys...I knew you'd help again !!
 
red91inWA said:
Please guys...did you take out your exisiting cable before the conversion, or did you just overlap, or cut it out ???

the only remaining question...

thanks guys...I knew you'd help again !!
not sure what you mean by "overlap" but just yank out all the crappy 10 Ga and 8 ga stock cables and replace them with whats listed above, get new terminals, solder all connections and you'll be good to go- least thats what I did
 
Yank out both of the positive cables and both of the negative cables from the battery to their ending points.
Then, replace the thicker (+) and (-) with 2/0 welding cable, and the smaller (+) and (-) with 4/0 welding cable.
Use marine quick-release ends on the battery, and big ring-ends for the starter, fuse block, and grounds.
HTH.
 
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red91inWA said:
Please guys...did you take out your exisiting cable before the conversion, or did you just overlap, or cut it out ???

the only remaining question...

thanks guys...I knew you'd help again !!

Sorry - I tossed the old stuff in the scrap bin. I also replaced the OEMR lead battery clamps with marine-grade Brass - they conduct better and are easier to keep clean.

5-90
 
This is my crappy setup- but its better than stock... I only used 4 ga audio-grade cable because, well, thats what I do and I have tons of it layin around. Use 1ga if ya got it...
Ignition007.jpg


the red and black 8 ga cables go into the cab to power power inverters, amp turn-on relays and etc etc etc- the capacitor beside the fuse box it hooked to the starter- makes for fast start times ... on a second note, anyone know if aftermarket battery hold-downs are availible? mines lookin kinda fugly
 
Yeah, get rid of the old crap, it's just going to make a mess in there. I have made around 15 sets of XJ battery cables using 2/0. I wouldn't suggest 2/0 unless you use welding cable, which is much more flexible. 2/0 battery cable (like you buy at Napa) is quite stiff and hard to work with. 1/0 is better if you're using battery cable. Cover all the connections with heat shrink tubing or liquid electrical tape. I used 4 gauge from the battery to the fuse box under the hood, I think stock is 8 gauge. Also, the jeepers and creepers cables are a huge rip off. A few feet of cable is not worth $100.
 
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That is one NICE wiring job dothedew24_7! I'm thinkin about replacing more of my wiring now....but yeah, there are universal battery hold down straps available. I don't remember where I ended up buying mine, but they had them at most of the local shops-NAPA, VIP, Autozone....

By the way, anyone have an idea of how many feet of wire to buy so I can get it before I tear my rig apart?
 
Depends on the year, you'll need about 6 feet. I would suggest you buy 7 just to be safe.
 
So 7 ft for just the power lead? #1 red should work for the one to the starter , right? And an 8 in piece of black #1 for the ground from the body to the neg. terminal on the battery should be an easy upgrade, right? The stock one to the fuse box should be ok?
 
Battery to starter is almost 3 feet, battery to engine block ground is about 25-30" depending on the year. Battery to body ground should be pretty short - 4 gauge is more than enough for this. (a short peice of 4 gauge will flow as many amps as a long peice of 2/0) The positive to fuse box cable is only about 12", 4 gauge is good here too.
 
dothedew24_7 I just noticed that you have a Duralast Gold battery. I had one given to me and put it in two weeks ago. How do they perform in the long run? Does it handle your stereo and light needs?
 
nhrocker said:
dothedew24_7 I just noticed that you have a Duralast Gold battery. I had one given to me and put it in two weeks ago. How do they perform in the long run? Does it handle your stereo and light needs?
It works- I had a yellow top that I got from autozone but it died mysteriouly, so they gave me this till they get their new stock in to replace it. ( I just ran outside to take those pics for this thread)- I should have my yellow top back tommorrow or Thursday
 
nhrocker said:
dothedew24_7 I just noticed that you have a Duralast Gold battery. I had one given to me and put it in two weeks ago. How do they perform in the long run? Does it handle your stereo and light needs?
nhrocker I have had a few of those Duralast Golds in my old van, and now in my xj. They seem to do good I never could see any complaint in them. Back in my partying days I used to run them down farther than I should playing my system for hours on end. While I'm shure it wasn't good on them it never seamed to hurt them much. The one I have now though seams to be getting a little weak though, and its not that old and hasn't seen the abuse I used to give them.
 
I run crimped and soldered 2/0 fine strand battery cable (basically welding cable - same neoprene jacket, same wispy inner wires; but it just has battery cable printed on the side)

I relocated my battery to the back and IIRC it took 28 ft total - some of that was going through a main power kill switch on the tranny tunnel right under the edge of the drive seat so I can reach it ASAP

I also had to tie my winch into the mix as well... the hardest part is planning a safe routing to the locations I wanted to go - If I had to do over I would use marine compression bulkheads instead of rubber grommets but even still it has been a few years with no grommet troubles (good strain relief is the ticket)...

HTH

Matt

battery2.JPG


switch1.JPG


More pics: http://home.off-road.com/~wanderingwillys/xjpics/Battery_Relocation/
 
did any of you take out your old harness, since its all taped together to do your cables or did you just cut the ends and run it external from the battery wiring loom ?
 
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