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Old October 18th, 2017, 20:11
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TRCM TRCM is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Newport News,VA
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Re: Pre-Production Sneak Peak at Boostwerks Comp Mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anak View Post
Now it was time to address the sector shaft support bearing. Instructions call for a 1 3/8” and a 1 5/16” deep well socket. The 1 3/8” is for the new, extended sector shaft nut and the 1 5/16” is for the old nut. On mine I certainly did not need a deep well socket for the original nut. A standard socket would have been fine. Check yours before you order anything. The socket for the new nut is another matter entirely. Deep well isn’t deep enough. What you need is extra deep, if you can find it.


When I tried to order my sockets the 1 3/8” was out of stock, so I opted for 35 mm. It is pretty close. Not perfect, but at that size it will do. When it came in I found it too short, so I tried to get a longer one at Napa. No luck on the length, but I will say that Napa’s pricing was better than Amazon’s. I got a second socket and then proceeded to make my own extra deep socket.

Here is the challenge:


I decided to trim both in order to get the joint away from the contact area:



Beveled:



Welded:



Final torque is probably a subject for some personal consideration. Instructions call for 180 ft/lbs (factory spec) with anti-seize (I don’t think the factory calls for that, but I do like something on my threads). If you hunt down the tech specs for Permatex they say to “Reassemble parts using normal torque values.” Personally, I am not so sure about that. From my experience elsewhere, the marketing folks will say just about anything in order to sell a product, regardless of outcome. Here would be the extreme view going the opposite direction: http://benmlee.com/4runner/threads/threads.htm


And this is probably the reasonable compromise position: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/a.../t-226077.html

I am thinking this rule sounds like the path to take: “Using Never Seize versus dry uncoated steel, multiply the specified torque by 0.65.”

But that is a personal decision. From a “follow the rules so the lawyers don’t take your arse” perspective you may be best off following the directions.



I just had to do the same thing on mine. I have the regular steering brace, and it is 1 1/4" (32 m).

NAPA deep sockets were too shallow, even using 2 of them, so I ended up using a NAPA 1 1/4" deep well that I cut the nut portion off of, and welded it t the autozone 32mm deep well socket.

Took forever for the chop saw to cut thru the socket tho, but I guess I did something right by going slowly (or got very lucky) as the cut was square to within .005" per my calipers.

Since they were the same diameter, I used a geesus ring (factory spring steel hose clamp) I had laying around to center them together, and hold them while I tacked them (the slots in the ring worked perfect to tack thru while it was holding them in place) together.

Then I used a u-shaped channel I had laying around to set it in so I could slowly rotate it as I tacked/welded it.

Turned out pretty good, and the 2 pieces are aligned perfectly (the nut will slide into & out of both easily), and a straight edge confirms it.


Still haven't decided on what I am gonna do about the torque tho, as the website directions & the ones I got are different (instruction sheet says anti-seize, website doesn't), and I am not sure 180 with anti-seize won't strip the nut, as depending on the anti-seize used, 180 on the torque wrench could be as high as 280 on the nut.

If I go with using anti-seize and dropping the torque wrench reading by .2, then I could achieve the required 180 ft lbs using my 0-150 ft lb torque wrench by going to 144......and return this new torque wrench I got last night (25-250 range).

Any thoughts ?


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Last edited by TRCM; October 18th, 2017 at 20:19.
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