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Old January 20th, 2017, 11:10
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Anak Anak is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SoCal
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Re: Pre-Production Sneak Peak at Boostwerks Comp Mount

I then was able to attempt the mounting of the winch in the Comp Mount. I thought I could feed the engagement lever through the hole and then line things up, but it would not play nicely. I finally removed it, got things aligned and bolts started and then tried to reinstall it. No luck that way either. This is a detail I am still working on. My goal is to have it accessible through the bumper. When it came to bolting everything up I also had some issues with the gear box interfering with one of the interior gussets, and there was no clearance for the bolts for the fairlead. I initially attributed these problems to my choice of winch, but later Bryson informed me that he forgot to include the spacers that are needed. Production units should come with these. At any rate, I was able to get things assembled well enough to make another test fit:



Note the two pieces of allthread. Those are an assembly aid. At this point I was trying them using the sway bar threads. I have since refined my methods and am using the size of allthread that matches the plates that go in the frame horns. More on this later, but keep it in mind as a very helpful aid.

Getting this unit into place was something I knew would be a challenge. I had asked Bryson about this and he told me he highly recommended a jack, such a transmission jack, and that he liked to have killed himself the first time he tried this. I don’t have a working transmission jack (I have a dead one, but that is another project in and of itself). I didn’t have high hopes for this, but I tried it anyways:


Yep. That is as high as that jack goes. And I am only running about 3” of lift and 235/75r15s. It is going to take a lot of jack for some folks’ rigs. A two post lift and a stand-up transmission jack would be the cats meow. I have neither of those. So bench press it was. I employed a Varmint for starting the nuts and bolts while I held the assembly in place. It wasn’t too bad getting it up, but keeping it there was another matter. Especially with young hands who have neither the experience nor the strength for the task. But we got it done. And no one died. However, I found a better way when removing the unit. More on that later.

Here are some pics of how it fit:


Note the Sharpie marks on the shroud. Bryson had warned me that I might need to trim the shroud, particularly given my choice of winch. This may not be the case if you are using an M8000. I can bolt things in place, but the winch is definitely pushing against the shroud. I doubt the interference will be good for the plastic. The marks show where I need to cut.


Here you can see how close I am cutting it on the passenger side. This fits, but barely.



Here is the fit on the steering gearbox side:


And another, slightly different view of the same:



And here is clearance to the dampener:



And the same, showing a bit of the steering:


When it came to removing this I simply sat down on my creeper in front of the Jeep and put my knees against the bottom of the winch mount, pulled the bolts and lowered it down using my legs. That was a piece of cake, and the reverse works well too. Forget the bench press method. Those with higher lifts or shorter legs may want a rolling stool. Play around with options and find something that works for your combination.

Now it was time to address the sector shaft support bearing. Instructions call for a 1 3/8” and a 1 5/16” deep well socket. The 1 3/8” is for the new, extended sector shaft nut and the 1 5/16” is for the old nut. On mine I certainly did not need a deep well socket for the original nut. A standard socket would have been fine. Check yours before you order anything. The socket for the new nut is another matter entirely. Deep well isn’t deep enough. What you need is extra deep, if you can find it.


When I tried to order my sockets the 1 3/8” was out of stock, so I opted for 35 mm. It is pretty close. Not perfect, but at that size it will do. When it came in I found it too short, so I tried to get a longer one at Napa. No luck on the length, but I will say that Napa’s pricing was better than Amazon’s. I got a second socket and then proceeded to make my own extra deep socket.

Here is the challenge:


I decided to trim both in order to get the joint away from the contact area:



Beveled:



Welded:



Final torque is probably a subject for some personal consideration. Instructions call for 180 ft/lbs (factory spec) with anti-seize (I don’t think the factory calls for that, but I do like something on my threads). If you hunt down the tech specs for Permatex they say to “Reassemble parts using normal torque values.” Personally, I am not so sure about that. From my experience elsewhere, the marketing folks will say just about anything in order to sell a product, regardless of outcome. Here would be the extreme view going the opposite direction: http://benmlee.com/4runner/threads/threads.htm


And this is probably the reasonable compromise position: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/a.../t-226077.html

I am thinking this rule sounds like the path to take: “Using Never Seize versus dry uncoated steel, multiply the specified torque by 0.65.”

But that is a personal decision. From a “follow the rules so the lawyers don’t take your arse” perspective you may be best off following the directions.
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