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rebuild front wheel bearing hub?

fuzzydog

NAXJA Forum User
Location
BC Canada
anyone done it? I see, and have read that they come as a complete assembly but.....

my other ride is an 88 Audi and that too has a hub assembly with the bearing pressed into the hub, then the splined inner hub pressed into the bearing. All you need to rebuild that is a good press and a $50 bearing and you can rebuild them.

Just priced the hub assembly at NAPA - $269 for 'premium' (us made) vs $122 for (offshore made) - only stock the premium though... (these are Can $$)
 
i dunno how much canadian dollars translates into here, but i have pretty much read that for most people, the hub assembly is a non serviceable part. i priced one real quick here on the internet and i was looking at about $130. i have taken mine off a few times to change u-joints and its a fairly simple process.

http://tlc.off-road.com/tlc/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=264213&searchString=hub assembly

hope this helps, although it probly wasnt what you were lookin for

-Tim
 
Fuzzydog, just changed my passenger side yesterday. The hub assembly is non serviceable. So stand by to shell out a couple bucks. I was really thorough and it took about 2 hours. I cleaned up the opening on the knuckle with some fine sandpaper then applied multi purpose grease to the shaft splines and knuckle opening. Good luck.
 
Try a different parts store, hubs are about $130 US here, which should be about $150 Canadian I think.
 
www.offroadoverstock.com has them at a good price. I run some I got for $75 locally and they have held up well to all kinds of abuse. It sucks to buy stuff not made in the US but I didn't think the extra $75 the parts house wanted would give me that much better of a product.
 
XJsurf said:
Fuzzydog, just changed my passenger side yesterday. The hub assembly is non serviceable. So stand by to shell out a couple bucks. I was really thorough and it took about 2 hours. I cleaned up the opening on the knuckle with some fine sandpaper then applied multi purpose grease to the shaft splines and knuckle opening. Good luck.

x2

and apply anti-seixe inside the knuckle, it will save you a huge headache later....took me hours to get my first hub off because it was rusted in, after antiseizing it, it takes one tap on each corner with a mallet

my .02

-TIm
 
woodywagon said:
NAPA does sell replacement bearing, but I couldn't press out the old bearings, with a 10 ton press

Thanks, that's what I was looking for - at least now I know that someone has at least tried it. too often you hear about things that can't be done but can't find any anecdotal evidence that it was even tried...
 
Just replaced both on my "new" 1989. Book says; "Remove 3 bolts and remove assembly."

Someone here on NAXJA said; "Soak them for 3 days with P.B.Laster, then puund on them with a chisel and 3 pound sledge. If you are lucky it should onlt take about 15 minutes per side to get them off."

I might add; Before you install the new ones, round out the bolt holes that got mashed. File the mating surface flat and use plenty of lube when you put them back together.

And the price to rebuild the old rusty ones with new bearings and labor was tthe same as the new ones.
 
The bearings come out. Just most people do not have access to a large enough press.



My uncle used to rebuild them. But he had access to a 100T+ press. 10T is nothing - you normally can't the wheel bearing off a semi-float axle with a 10T press.


Personally I found it cheaper to jsut go toe boneyard and find ones that still seemed decently tight and steal them.
 
fuzzydog said:
Thanks, that's what I was looking for - at least now I know that someone has at least tried it. too often you hear about things that can't be done but can't find any anecdotal evidence that it was even tried...

I have a buddy that has a kit that he bought for his YJ front unitbearings that had the correct sized sleeves and support plates for pressing them apart and back together.

That leads me to believe that it was a fairly common thing to do at some point in time.
 
Oizarod115 said:
x2

and apply anti-seixe inside the knuckle, it will save you a huge headache later....took me hours to get my first hub off because it was rusted in, after antiseizing it, it takes one tap on each corner with a mallet

my .02

-TIm

You XJ folk need to learn how to work smart instead of hard. ;)

DSC0236.JPG


Put a bolt in there between the end of the yoke and the side of the inner C and turn the steering wheel. Pops them right out of the knuckle without hurting anything(except hammer sales).

You may have to move it to the other side to walk the bearing out, but it's real easy to do.
 
mrblaine said:
You XJ folk need to learn how to work smart instead of hard. ;)

DSC0236.JPG


Put a bolt in there between the end of the yoke and the side of the inner C and turn the steering wheel. Pops them right out of the knuckle without hurting anything(except hammer sales).

You may have to move it to the other side to walk the bearing out, but it's real easy to do.

All the times I've changed them I never thought about doing that.
 
XJsurf said:
Fuzzydog, just changed my passenger side yesterday. The hub assembly is non serviceable. So stand by to shell out a couple bucks. I was really thorough and it took about 2 hours. I cleaned up the opening on the knuckle with some fine sandpaper then applied multi purpose grease to the shaft splines and knuckle opening. Good luck.

XJsurf
I'd like to purchase your old bearing. I'm converting my 1998 XJ to WJ steering and brakes. I want an old unit bearing that I can press apart to use as a jig for drilling the WJ rotors for the XJ bolt pattern. I can send a prepaid FedEx ground shipping label and a few bucks for your trouble.

Thanks,
Mike
 
95Z28A4 said:
XJsurf
I'd like to purchase your old bearing. I'm converting my 1998 XJ to WJ steering and brakes. I want an old unit bearing that I can press apart to use as a jig for drilling the WJ rotors for the XJ bolt pattern. I can send a prepaid FedEx ground shipping label and a few bucks for your trouble.

Thanks,
Mike

If that doesn't work out for you, send me a PM. I have a 5 on 4.5 bearing that's already pressed apart. You are welcome to all the pieces if you want.
 
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-bearing-hub-front/Jeep/Cherokee/1ASHS00004/558832?ovchn=OTHER&ovcpn=BizRate&ovcrn=&ovtac=CMP&utm_source=BizRate&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BizRate


I just put these in mine last night, obviously I don't know how they are going to hold up yet but they were the best deal I could find. I figure they'll be pretty good for a trail rig that only sees a couple hundred miles a month.

Service was really quick too, I ordered them Monday night (Memorial Day) and had them at my house Friday.
 
95Z28A4 said:
XJsurf
I'd like to purchase your old bearing. I'm converting my 1998 XJ to WJ steering and brakes. I want an old unit bearing that I can press apart to use as a jig for drilling the WJ rotors for the XJ bolt pattern. I can send a prepaid FedEx ground shipping label and a few bucks for your trouble.

Thanks,
Mike

Mike,
Shoot I threw that it away the day the I changed it out. Man wish I knew you were interested. Sorry.
JJ
 
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