'Nitro' Axle shafts

I'd not heard much about them, but after 2.5 years of wheeling with an 'unbreakable' front axle, when I broke a Superior D44 stub at the Groundhog Comp, I needed something quick, and strong to get me through this coming weekend (Cal Rocs at Donner).

While Superior is going to warranty my broken shaft, they're back ordered on the 'EVO' (Made in USA, costs $275 each) series. They offered to send me a 'Disco' (Made in India, costs $125 each) series... I declined, and said I'll wait.

This left me with a few options...

I HATE my Yukon spare shafts, and decided that they werent good enough to install when there was ANY other option out there. (I've broken 3 yukons)

I'd have loved a Warn shaft, but as Warn sold out to Randy's Ring and Pinion, and that is now the Yukon 'hardcore' axle line, I was leary of going that route.

I called a few vendors, and tried to find some old Alloy USA and old Warn stock, but no luck. Ten Factory wasnt available from a few of the vendors that I tried (but I didnt call them direct either.)

I called up Carl at Just Differentials (509-888-2953 x113 [email protected] http://www.justdifferentials.com/ ) and asked about the 'Nitro' axle shaft line.
He seemed to think that these were just as good as my superior stubs, and he had them in stock. Lifetime warranty included.

Something like $113 shipped to my door - had it 2 days after I ordered it.

Here are some pictures and initial impressions -
Came nicely packaged and bagged, sprayed with a light oil -


here it is un-bagged - (Note the neck down, and how the shaft OD is the spline minor diameter - this is GOOD)


Forging looks decent -


Compared to my Yukon spare - (Note that the Yukon doesnt have the neck down, and has that huge stress riser. All of my broken Yukons have broken right at that point. I also think that the Yukon stuff is hardened too much, and that combined with the larger OD doesnt allow the shaft to flex enough under shock loading, and is what causes the failure.)






here is the shaft coupled to the best of the best - a CTM and a Warn inner shaft -




and installed in the worlds most expensive D44 - complete with Dedenbear knuckles -


I also threw in some drive slugs, and some drive slug caps from Dean at Performance Cryogenics (http://www.performancecryogenics.com/) that I'd had for quite some time, just never installed.
Drive Slugs are much stronger than the Warn Premium hubs, and also stick out much less. This should put a full beating on this shaft.


some quick initial thoughts:
The shaft seems quality, the machine work looks good, it fit the U-joint tight, but wasnt a pain to install. The ears were the right distance apart and didnt require hammer work to make em work.

The forging looks quality, the splines looked and fit great. The neck down is right for shaft flex, so it ought to work great!

I'm still running a superior on the long side shaft, so we'll get a side by side comparison.

I have a question, you say you would have loved to get your hands on an old Warn shaft but those shafts are designed the same way as the Yukon's with the spline major extended the entire length of the axle. Whats your take on this?

Ty2003K said:

I have a question, you say you would have loved to get your hands on an old Warn shaft but those shafts are designed the same way as the Yukon's with the spline major extended the entire length of the axle. Whats your take on this?

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I know that the old stock Warns perform - a buddy had them, and when he broke it, he ripped an ear off the shaft.

I know that the superiors perform - I had them for 2.5 years of what I consider hard wheeling.

The shaft OD profile is debatable, but I think the combination of heat treating and shaft OD has to be nailed to get a good shaft - a heat treating for a 'softer' shaft might be able to run a larger OD and not have the shock loading shearing problem, or a smaller OD shaft with a harder heat treat might be equivalent?

I do know that in good spline design, the shaft OD should be the spline minor diameter.

It could also be that Warn is making one shaft for both the Chevy and Ford applications, and cutting 1/4" off the chevy units to make the ford units, and needs the extra spline length?

:dunno:

Tell me if i'm wrong but....you can't really see forging on a finished part. After it is forged it usually goes on to be "cleaned up" and made nicer for the final product.

veedubshafer said:

Tell me if i'm wrong but....you can't really see forging on a finished part. After it is forged it usually goes on to be "cleaned up" and made nicer for the final product.

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I might be wrong on that - hows this -

the 'not machined section, that has a much rougher surface that looks like almost every other forged piece I've ever seen looked quality'

:thumbup:

XJ_ranger said:

I know that the old stock Warns perform - a buddy had them, and when he broke it, he ripped an ear off the shaft.

I know that the superiors perform - I had them for 2.5 years of what I consider hard wheeling.

The shaft OD profile is debatable, but I think the combination of heat treating and shaft OD has to be nailed to get a good shaft - a heat treating for a 'softer' shaft might be able to run a larger OD and not have the shock loading shearing problem, or a smaller OD shaft with a harder heat treat might be equivalent?

I do know that in good spline design, the shaft OD should be the spline minor diameter.

It could also be that Warn is making one shaft for both the Chevy and Ford applications, and cutting 1/4" off the chevy units to make the ford units, and needs the extra spline length?

:dunno:

Click to expand...

Good answer and I agree with you for the most part. I will add however that I do not beleive the shaft OD MUST be the spline minor diameter. A properly rolled spline has been shown to be stronger then the minor diameter. From my experience increasing the diameter of the shaft 10% or so from the minor will create a stronger shaft. But I have also never seen the 19 spline models rolled so I guess it doesnt matter. Im also sure someone has a better Idea then me so I am right there with you. :dunno:

I just ordered my set of Nitro shafts for my XJ earlier this week, they should be here monday. If they are not broken within the next month Ill defentally put up a post, and if they are Ill let eveyone know exactly how well they held up and how quickly they get warenteed. LOL

i run moser inners, super joints and nitro outers. been on a few runs and all is well.

36" iroks on allied beadlocks at around 2 psi.

i have had terrible luck with yukon. one broke into about 40 pieces as a result of mud
and the other broke in my vice as the ears were out of spec and the instructions told me to bend them into place. yukon wouldn't warranty it because it was going on a vehicle with larger than 33" tires (although the shaft never touched the vehicle)

broke 2 moser outers at the splines (cut splines no neck down)

and a few stockers, one on pavement.


so far i am very pleased with the price, finish, warranty, and strength of the nitro's

ktm racer 419 said:

i run moser inners, super joints and nitro outers. been on a few runs and all is well.

36" iroks on allied beadlocks at around 2 psi.

i have had terrible luck with yukon. one broke into about 40 pieces as a result of mud
and the other broke in my vice as the ears were out of spec and the instructions told me to bend them into place. yukon wouldn't warranty it because it was going on a vehicle with larger than 33" tires (although the shaft never touched the vehicle)

broke 2 moser outers at the splines (cut splines no neck down)

and a few stockers, one on pavement.


so far i am very pleased with the price, finish, warranty, and strength of the nitro's

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Why would you tell them you're running 36's instead of 33's so you could get them warrantied.

veedubshafer said:

Why would you tell them you're running 36's instead of 33's so you could get them warrantied.

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Because he's honest?
Billy

nitro warranty has been good to me even after telling them i am running 39's on a 44. my yukon super joint ripped the ears off. but my warn shafts were able to break my ctm joint.

glad to hear this about Yukons...im lookin at the Nitros for sure

There were heat treating issues with the old Yukon stock. Yukon has recently changed vendors, and the new stuff is MUCH better. There won't be any issues.

veedubshafer said:

Why would you tell them you're running 36's instead of 33's so you could get them warrantied.

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they took my rig info when i bought them and didnt think of it at the time

that and i would have assumed if they were never even installed in the vehicle running 36's there wouldn't be an issue

Matt98XJ said:

There were heat treating issues with the old Yukon stock. Yukon has recently changed vendors, and the new stuff is MUCH better. There won't be any issues.

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Where did you get that info????? Ha because you work for them lol. That other thread on the lockers was pretty funny to read I must admit.:laugh3:

Matt98XJ said:

There were heat treating issues with the old Yukon stock. Yukon has recently changed vendors, and the new stuff is MUCH better. There won't be any issues.

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WHAT!?! My buddy just got his (front) Yukon's last week and one broke on the first run. He's only running 34's and has front and rear D44's. He was so pissed he's not even bothering to have them warrantied because the attitude he was given when he called about it. The ear busted right off...the CTM was still OK.

What's his name?

Guys - lets not trash on Yukon that bad - I've had some issues with them in the past, and choose not to run them in my rig anymore.

I beat the fawk outta my rig this weekend, and the Nitro shaft (as well as the other superior, the CTM's and the Warns) all held together.

When pics get posted, I'll be sure to add 'proof'

Mine came today well see how long they last.

XJ_ranger said:

When pics get posted, I'll be sure to add 'proof'

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I stayed in it... wayyyyy longer than I should have! :gee: