• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Code 11 twice?

X

xjh3

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Moodus, CT
97, AW4, 4.0, 171000.

At work, searched quick, nothing came up. Yesterday on the way to work it started stumbling and skipping quite bad. Code 11 came up. It continues to get progessively worse and will barely run now. I replaced the distributor because it came with a new cam sensor and the bearings were going bad in it. It continued to get worse after this, and now I have code 11 coming up twice. I am going to change the crankshaft sensor next. Is it possible I screwed something else up? I tried my best to make sure the rotor was in the same position as it was when I took it out, but it seemed to only fit one way anyway. Sorry for the quick post, we're busy at work and it's parked outside our shop... I'd like to get it home tonight if possible! TIA!!!
 
I followed the links that popped up below for you and found one that said that 11 was something like no reference signal when cranking (or some such verbage). Anyway, it sounded like the Crank Position Sensor is very likely the culprit. Good luck replacing it.
 
Ok. I was aware that that code could mean the crankshaft sensor, but the code I read also indicated it could be the camshaft sensor as well. I was just wondering why it went from giving me code 11 once to twice...
 
Both crank and cam sensors are in with almost no change. Short of going through all the wiring, is there anything left to check or try? I'm getting really frustrated...
 
Make sure your wires are still good..I had one that broke so it wouldn't start..Repaired the wire she fired right up..Trace it up from the sensors..

Good luck, i hate wiring
 
Be sure the connectors for both sensors have been cleaned/flushed with electrical contact cleaner. Remember that there is a connector for the crank sensor INSIDE the engine bay; gotta clean that too. This could be a bit of crud creating an intermittent resistance problem.
 
Ok. Good continuity between the wires at the end of connectors for both the sensor connectors and PCM connectors. However, since I have unplugged the wiring harness from the PCM and plugged it back in, it will crank continuously with no real attempt to start at all. Still have the #11 code, only once now along with a #45 code. I have tried cleaning and tightening all the connectors with nothing. Like I said, the crank and cam sensors are both new.

It's getting difficult to track this down with all the symptoms changing all the time...
 
Pardon my ignorance, but if you are working on a 97--that would be an OBDII vehicle--why are you referencing OBDI codes???????
 
joe_peters said:
Pardon my ignorance, but if you are working on a 97--that would be an OBDII vehicle--why are you referencing OBDI codes???????
Click to expand...

Because my digital odometer only gives 2 digit codes. I thought this was curious myself, but I then read somewhere that 97 was the bastard year that was really half 96, half 98.

I now have spark and it will atleast try to run. I'm going to start off tomorrow by reindexing my distributor.
 
xjh3 said:
Because my digital odometer only gives 2 digit codes. I thought this was curious myself, but I then read somewhere that 97 was the bastard year that was really half 96, half 98.

I now have spark and it will atleast try to run. I'm going to start off tomorrow by reindexing my distributor.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply.
 
Reindexed the distributor. I'm atleast sure it's close enough that it will run, but it is irrelevant to the fact that I am still not getting spark. No codes anymore. 12V is briefly delivered to the coil when turning the engine over but then goes away, I believe this is a typical sign of a bad crank sensor. I just pulled the new one out to exchange it for another one. I feel like right now I've narrowed it down to two very unlikely things: either the PCM is bad or the brand new crank sensor I put in is bad. Or there is a bad connection that I can't find anywhere. Anyone know how to test a PCM or know whether any of these symptons coincide with a bad PCM? Thoughts? I feel like there has got to be something simple smacking me in the face that I'm just not seeing...
 
You can't really test the PCM. The closest you can get is to verify that all the inputs and outputs are good or not. If the inputs are good, and the outputs not, you've gotta change the PCM.

If you take the wire going from the coil to the distributor cap center, and hold that end that goes into the cap near a ground while cranking, do you get a good steady spark or no?
 
I did not try that particular method, but I pulled one of the plugs and grounded it to the block during cranking with nothing.
 
One other thing to add. During cranking, the voltmeter would also drop to 0 and then go back up to 12 sometimes. Also, the tach would occasionally spike past 6000rpm with no change in cranking speed or anything. When it would still run, whenever it stalled the tack would jump all over the place, I assumed this was because the vehicle was still moving and the torque converter may have had enough to spin the motor a little but not consistently. Does this sound possibly more like bad ground or bad connection somewhere? I have checked everything between the crank/cam sensors and the PCM with a meter. Anyone know a good place to start looking for bad grounds/shorts with this type of problem?
 
Well I'm not surprised no one wants to touch this with a ten foot pole. I exchanged the crank sensor for a new one. Put that in and it ran beautifully. I didn't drive it right then, but let it idle for ten minutes, reving it every once in a while. I came back a couple hours later and I am back at square one. It misfired until it stalled out, then I lost spark. It has to be either a bad connection or the PCM.
 
I think all along the ground from the block to the body was bad. I refreshed that ground it it started, but ran rough. I noticed while I was refreshing it that the fuel pump would prime when I moved it around. I think the ground was bad enough that the fuel pump AND coil weren't getting enough juice.

Anyway, now that I have it running, it misfires often/lacks power, is running a tad hotter than usual, and the spark plugs are slightly white in color at the electrode. Is it running lean possibly due to the fact that the fuel pump is not grounded well and is therefore not running at full tilt? What all other grounds can I check besides that one and the battery one?
 
You should check your fuel pressure with a gauge to ensure you are getting the correct psi.

Bleached-Bone white sparplugs would indicate a lean condition to me. Weak fuel pressure would cause lean condition, but then the PCM should be trying to increase the duration of the injectors to compensate.
 
Got this trick out of a Jeep repair manual last week. Set voltmeter to volts. One probe to the ground wire, one to good ground. Ideally meter should read zero. If it reads one volt or more, you definately have a bad ground. This is suposed to be a better test than checking for ohm resistance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
2000 XJ Failed Colorado Emissions high CO
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
Ken M
K
F
Curious MAP sensor failing - symptoms
Replies
0
Views
2K
fenns7
F
Saudade
Still More Salvage Yard Gold
Replies
4
Views
219
Saudade
Saudade
chris420
Weight
Replies
5
Views
879
chris420
chris420
J
2001 4.0L issues
Replies
15
Views
259
Saudade
Saudade
Back
Top