• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Battery Cable Upgrade Write-Up

LazersGoPEWPEW

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Los Angeles, CA
So I upgraded my battery to an Optima Yellow-Top. Then thought I probably could use some new battery cables. So I bought a set from selarep.

Pretty simple process if you don't run into the speed bumps that I ran into.

This is the before of the battery cables.

3572206019_ec58ed610a.jpg


Step 1: Disconnect your battery cables from the battery starting with the negative and then the positive.

Step 2: Trace the cables to all their respective locations. This is pretty simple.

Step 3: Now break out a pair of scissors or whatever cutting device you choose and start slicing here.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3347/3573012654_37c289449e.jpg?v=0

When I say slice I mean cut the tape holding all the cables together at the intersection. Remove the large plastic covering for now. I pulled a lot of it off and forgot where some of it went but it doesn't really matter that much.

Step 4: In the picture above you'll see where you need to remove the other end of the black negative cable. Pretty simple. If I recall everything was a 13mm. Unbolt pull off and set it aside.

Step 5:
3572206097_8b00aca656.jpg

See the red cable under the oil filter. That's where we're going next.

Climb under your XJ and grab your wrench and release this clasp. You won't be pulling the cable out until you release this.
3572206463_5f7e336b00.jpg


Now go to the end of the cable. Unbolt and voila you have released the positive cable No. 1.

Step 6:
3572206373_c354f3b4c2.jpg


This is actually after I changed the cable out but you pull the plastic piece off and just unbolt and bolt back on. I modified the plastic piece to fit over the new beefier cables plus for the powerseat I wired in to that place. Pictures to come.

Step 7: This is where I stopped taking pictures because I got pissed. The ground on the side of the jeep was pretty difficult to get at. I had to saw the bolt off and buy new hardware. It is not a nut and bolt OEM setup. There is a piece on the backend that I believe is supposed to be welded to the body. Mine popped off and I couldn't get anything to get a good enough grip to get it out. It was rusted pretty bad. The easiest solution is to just ground somewhere else. But for me I don't like drilling holes.

Step 8: Install the new cables. This is the reverse of the earlier steps. It's simple really. Put everything back the way it was. I'll take some pictures when I get a chance so you can see how I did it.

There are more cables to install when I buy a winch in the future and I'm still deciding on some other things I got. It's a nice and easy upgrade especially if you don't have a problem grounding somewhere else. I should have taken more pictures but was getting pretty irritated with that bolt. We brawled for a day until I decided to slice it off. :smsoap:

Anyways more pictures to come of what it looks like after.
 
Seems to me you must have stopped taking pictures pretty early in the process. Either that or you bought a pretty incomplete set of mains. Did you replace the block to body grounding strap? How about the alternator output? What did you do with all the small control wires after you cut them out of the loom? Looks like there's a few missing steps considering this is a "write-up" thread. Sorry, don't mean to be a jerk, I was just hoping for some good info when I saw the thread title.
 
@DeftWillP - how'd you manage to wreck your rig, anyhow? Just wonderin'...


Rear ended a stopped car doing about 50. It was pretty much their fault as they pulled out of a gas station at the corner and stopped at a yellow. The story gets longer than that but oh well.
 
Seems to me you must have stopped taking pictures pretty early in the process. Either that or you bought a pretty incomplete set of mains. Did you replace the block to body grounding strap? How about the alternator output? What did you do with all the small control wires after you cut them out of the loom? Looks like there's a few missing steps considering this is a "write-up" thread. Sorry, don't mean to be a jerk, I was just hoping for some good info when I saw the thread title.

Block to body grounding strap???

Alternator output? Be a little more specific. It's battery cables. I replaced the stock wires of which there were only 4 leading to the battery. I'm working on pictures still.

I also just realized I can't edit my original post which I had planned to do. Rats.
 
Last edited:
Block to body grounding strap???

Alternator output? Be a little more specific. It's battery cables. I replaced the stock wires of which there were only 4 leading to the battery. I'm working on pictures still.

I also just realized I can't edit my original post which I had planned to do. Rats.

These things happen.

Yeah - there are quite a few "mains" cables involved.

On all XJ:
- Battery-Starter Motor
- Battery-Distribution
- Battery-Engine Block
- Cylinder Head-Firewall

For 1991-up, there is also the Battery-Chassis lead (at the fenderwell.)

And, if you upgrade your alternator, you probably want to replace the Alternator-Distribution lead, and install some variety of fuse kit (like an ANL fuse - they're available in ratings that will cover what you need.)

Don't ask how I know all of this...:shhh:
 
Climb under your XJ and grab your wrench and release this clasp. You won't be pulling the cable out until you release this.
3572206463_5f7e336b00.jpg


Now go to the end of the cable. Unbolt and voila you have released the positive cable No. 1.

perfect! i couldn't remember what that attached to when i put my motor back in, thanks! i was so used to those straps and connectors actually doubling up, that one is all by it's lonesome.
 
Seems to me you must have stopped taking pictures pretty early in the process. Either that or you bought a pretty incomplete set of mains. Did you replace the block to body grounding strap? How about the alternator output? What did you do with all the small control wires after you cut them out of the loom? Looks like there's a few missing steps considering this is a "write-up" thread. Sorry, don't mean to be a jerk, I was just hoping for some good info when I saw the thread title.

this might help ya out alittle... same cables

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=994908
 
These things happen.

Yeah - there are quite a few "mains" cables involved.

On all XJ:
- Battery-Starter Motor
- Battery-Distribution
- Battery-Engine Block
- Cylinder Head-Firewall

For 1991-up, there is also the Battery-Chassis lead (at the fenderwell.)

And, if you upgrade your alternator, you probably want to replace the Alternator-Distribution lead, and install some variety of fuse kit (like an ANL fuse - they're available in ratings that will cover what you need.)

Don't ask how I know all of this...:shhh:

I think I got all of those connected except the cylinder head-firewall.

The battery-distribution is the red that goes from the fusebox area to the battery right?

EDIT: WOW. After running down real quick to look I realized where the other 2 cables I got go to. DUH. Anyways I'll put them in tomorrow and take pictures. So much for my write-up. Dur dur dur. I'm no whiz bang at stuff sometimes. I need to readjust the fenderwell ground anyways.

Anywhoooo I think I have it all figured out now so maybe I'll notice a change. Woops!
 
Last edited:
What size are those cables?? If they are larger than 2/0, I will need to upgrade....
 
What size are those cables?? If they are larger than 2/0, I will need to upgrade....

OEM is 8AWG, and it's just enough for OEM alternators (barely, and assuming something like 40-60% duty cycle at full output.)

I offer 4AWG and 1AWG - 4AWG is good for at least 150A (I put a 150A cap on it for safety's sake) and 1AWG should be good for around 300-325A in the lengths used underhood, assuming dc of 100%.

00AWG is just plain nuts for overkill, and all you're really doing is adding weight for no real tangible benefit. Not that weight is as big a problem for us, but also bear in mind that heavier wire is harder to handle as well. That's why I settled down for 1AWG for primary distribution (4AWG was originally for secondary, but I found out it works for LD primary as well.)

If I use anything larger, it's because I happened to have it handy at the time. I honestly don't see a need to go any bigger than 1AWG for most applications. I will if you need/want me to (I can source up to 0000AWG easily,) but I honestly don't see a real need to.

For most applications, anyhow. I'm always willing to be convinced.
 
OEM is 8AWG, and it's just enough for OEM alternators (barely, and assuming something like 40-60% duty cycle at full output.)

I offer 4AWG and 1AWG - 4AWG is good for at least 150A (I put a 150A cap on it for safety's sake) and 1AWG should be good for around 300-325A in the lengths used underhood, assuming dc of 100%.

00AWG is just plain nuts for overkill, and all you're really doing is adding weight for no real tangible benefit. Not that weight is as big a problem for us, but also bear in mind that heavier wire is harder to handle as well. That's why I settled down for 1AWG for primary distribution (4AWG was originally for secondary, but I found out it works for LD primary as well.)

If I use anything larger, it's because I happened to have it handy at the time. I honestly don't see a need to go any bigger than 1AWG for most applications. I will if you need/want me to (I can source up to 0000AWG easily,) but I honestly don't see a real need to.

For most applications, anyhow. I'm always willing to be convinced.

Overkill is what I was shooting for... Farm&Fleet had 00, made fore tractors, and I should be happy with that until I see an XJ with bigger ones.:D I would like to switch to a similar size of welding cable.

We are using the same 00 cables on my father's MB(L-134 engine), it is probably closer to necessary here, as it's still 6v.
 
Last edited:
Since this is my kit that I made/sold, I will pitch in with info.

The entire kit is 2 awg fine strand copper welding cable. 2 awg is rated to handle 200 amps so I chose this as the best solution.

Lazers, if I didn't include some wires please let me know and I will ship them out to you asap.

Thanks!
 
this might help ya out alittle... same cables

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=994908

Thanks. Nice pics. Some of those before pics are a little scary. Still curious how you addressed all the small gauge control wires. I've actually just completed a mains upgrade on my XJ. I was considering doing a write up but given the time it takes to do it up right I was hoping there was a good write up out there already. 5-90's site gives some great directions, but there's a few holes where pictures still need to be inserted. Sorry 5-90, I'm sure you're spending too much time actually working on XJ's to worry too much about your on-line instructions, but some of you're PDF's still need a little finishing up. Your website is a great source of info though. :thumbup:

I used 1 gauge welding wire and Quick Cable Fusion Lugs for all the connections. I realize non mechanical cable connections are not UL listed, but I figured if they were OK for the tractor applications my hardware store sells them for, then they would probably work in a Cherokee. Time will tell. The only real downside to working with them is that the lugs are so thick that they eat up a lot of thread on your terminal posts. I wired everything up using a 150 amp ANL that I sourced from 5-90.

EDIT: WOW. After running down real quick to look I realized where the other 2 cables I got go to. DUH. Anyways I'll put them in tomorrow and take pictures. So much for my write-up. Dur dur dur. I'm no whiz bang at stuff sometimes. I need to readjust the fenderwell ground anyways.

Anywhoooo I think I have it all figured out now so maybe I'll notice a change. Woops!

Yeah, left over parts are usually a bad sign...
 
Back
Top