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Difficulty of installing RE 4.5" Kit

jbcherokee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Hampshire
I am picking up a RE 4.5" superflex kit and I am just wondering if I am going to have to get it installed by a professional or if i will be able to do it myself. I have pretty little experience with suspension but I consider myself "handy" and my father is good with cars too (does brakes and stuff like that). Basically I am just wondering how difficult it really is to install a lift with no experience in doing so.

Just looking for some feedback and your personal experiences
 
Go for it dude! Just make sure to soak all the bolts real well with penetrant a couple days before you tear it down. Be prepared to replace rusted bolts etc. Anybody with a moderate mechanical capability can git 'er done.
 
Like what was said, soak all bolts with penetrating fluid such as PB Blaster. Pay extra attention to the rear upper shock mounts, as those usually break often and then you gotta drill and tap those out. Also, if your kit comes with shackles, those upper shackle bolts should be soaked (I took my rear bumper off and sprayed the insides of the bolts) and use lots of heat to break those loose. Actually, use lots of heat anywhere you can.
 
Well i think i might have a go at it then...

My only other question is are there any other parts I will need besides those included with the kit itself? (I will be buying shocks so those are taken care of)

Do i need shims? anything like that?

Any imput you can offer would be great
 
Usually the kit includes shims, be ready to make a run to the store too replace some bolts that may not cooperate.
I have heard of these lifts taking 2 weeks to install and 5 hours to install so let us know how long it took and throw up some pics
 
Ok. I am just getting a bit worried because the directions posted on RE's website do not contain much detail on things such as shimming... are the ones posted on the site the same one's shipped?

I am hoping to get an opinion from someone who actually bought and installed the kit if possible
 
make sure you have a couple of jacks and jack stands.

also a back up vehicle if you need to make trips to the parts store.
 
It won't be that difficult if you stumble across a problem and let us know on here. I've installed a few different lifts on my Jeep and my friend's Jeep. Shims, if not already available, should run you about 10 bucks. I put 4 degree BDS shims on my 3.5" packs, and I'm thinking that's what you'll need/get as well, since I believe that kit comes with 3.5" packs and 1" shackle. I have the 3.5" system, which as far as the rear goes, just doesn't include the shackles. You might need some longer center pins as well if you put those shims in.
 
Find someone on here from NH, get them to come by and help. It's easy, it's just nice to have moral support, plus then you'll have a wheeling buddy. If you can take bolts out and put bolts in you can do this. Then spend the money it would've cost to take it to a pro and buy a locker or bumper, or sliders.
 
no the RE kit doesnt come with shims but any local off road shop should carry 4* shims. its fairly straight forward to do. takes time and patience, more for some depending on the amount of rust and broken bolts. but its nothing more than removing nuts and bolts and bolting in new parts. yeah the instructions arent the best, but luckily this isnt a very difficult task as its fairly self explanatory. good luck!
 
Mine was fairly complex, but if you are technically capable you can do this. I myself had never messed with suspension before and I ended up replacing everything under my jeep when i did the lift. As everyone has stated use a penetrating oil like PB blaster and do this for at least a couple weeks before. Also for the jack stands, if you know anyone with the taller 6ton stands use those (trust me they will help). Also if you have a breaker bar and some airtools your body will thank you. also make sure when you are reattaching the rear axle you have someone there to help you line up the axle and the centering pins! at least that is where i had most of my issues. but then again I replaced both axles with upgraded ones.
 
jonesinxj Did you find the kit lacked anything? Was there any parts you needed to buy you were not expecting to buy?

And is shimming 100% necessary... I'm familiar with shimming other things but I can't seem to grasp exactly what shimming you would be doing and if its really needed
 
thanks for all the help guys... guess you could just say im getting cold feet for my first xj lift. I just don't want to order $1000 worth of scrap metal (when I receive it and fail miserably) but your advice is restoring a bit of confidence.
 
jonesinxj Did you find the kit lacked anything? Was there any parts you needed to buy you were not expecting to buy?

And is shimming 100% necessary... I'm familiar with shimming other things but I can't seem to grasp exactly what shimming you would be doing and if its really needed


no the kit i recieved did not lack anything, but i would recommend getting longer brakelines, but the ones off of a YJ from the parts store (87-94) will work great. Also maybe upgrade to front swaybar disconnects.:roll: Yes shims are completely needed since this tilts the rear axle up so the pinion angle off off the axle is correct.
 
but if you are buying the RE 3.5 kit with the full leaf pack, they will ship with them already attached.
 
what year is this lift for?

what trans and transfercase?

a 4.5" lift is fairly tall and driveline vibs are likely to happen, so you must plan for it. driveline vibs mainly occur becuase the driveshaft angle changes.

to eliminate the vibs, you can do a transfercase drop, shim the rear axle, or get a slip yoke eliminator.
 
If the bolt on the front of the leaf spring just spins and spins really easy than you broke off the spot weld on a nut inside the frame. Same thing happened to me and a buddy of mine as well. Just cut a square to access the nut inside the frame if this happens to you.
 
I just installed a Full traction 6" lift on my 98XJ. The one leaf spring nut located under the passenger rear seat broke loose. I have found that using a hole saw to access the nut worked better than cutting a square hole. Not sure if it is better but it was easier than cutting out a square.
 
what year is this lift for?

what trans and transfercase?

a 4.5" lift is fairly tall and driveline vibs are likely to happen, so you must plan for it. driveline vibs mainly occur becuase the driveshaft angle changes.

to eliminate the vibs, you can do a transfercase drop, shim the rear axle, or get a slip yoke eliminator.

I have the np231 t-case and I plan to drop it with the included parts. I am also going to shim the rear axle if i can figure that out. If those two don't work Ill get an sye and new driveshaft but I hope to put that off because its so expensive.
 
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