Best Bumper Paint?

I've got a Detours USA Slimline Rear bumper on order, and was wondering what everyone suggests painting it with? I don't want to go the Rustoleum route, that hasn't quite given me the results I've wanted. Maybe bedliner like Plastikote or something? Any suggestions?

Also, anyone have any pics of bedlined bumpers?

I'd say if you don't want to go the Spray Can route get out the spray gun and buy some decent paint. I've seen bedlined bumpers and think they look horrible IMO. If you're not familiar with spray guns or dont want to be you could always drop it off at a body shop, might be a little spendy though. Just my .02

I am of fan of powder coating, only cost me 20 buck to get my front bumper from jcr done. looks as good as one of those super over priced bumpers..

I guess I should have worded that differently. I'd do a spray can, just not the cheap stuff, which is all that I have used in the past...

Herculiner, or Duplicolor spray on bedliner if you don't want it rough.

I've had good luck with tractor primer, then tractor paint then cover after it all dries with color of choice spray paint. :farmer:

I was at NAPA the other day, they had Dulpicolor Bumper paint, I't claims to be tougher than thier nomal automotive paint. I've never used it though.

As far as toughness is concerned, I would go automotive paint first. Really not as expensive as some people think. The initial investment is a bit of a gouge, but you will be so happy with your results. The harbor freight gun is about $39, and I've used it time and time again with excellent results.

If you want something a little less involved, POR15 and Hammerite are both as tough as nails.

Herculiner is another good choice but the texture seems to always end up a little uneven, and it fades FAST. Also if you chip it, it's really hard to touch up.

Duplicolor is another good choice, as suggested by others. However, it takes a long time to cure. Maybe a month before it's fully hardened and scratch proof. Otherwise it still has a rubbery kind of fell that can be gouged and chipped.

It sounds like you want to go the cheaper easier route, so I would do this:
-Sand the bumper down, remove any grit or grime and degrease
-Hit it with some Duplicolor Self Etching Primer
-Next go over it with Duplicolor Bed liner
-And topcoat with your favorite color and brand of regular spray bomb. Avoid clearcoats if you plan on bashing it.

Though you've already stated an aversion to Rustoleum, I'd encourage you to take a 2nd glance at the Rustoleum "Hammered" line of paints.

I used this paint on a set of Rokmen mercenary sliders that I installed on my LJ (before it was stolen last thanksiving). The finish was excellent, and
laid up with just the right thickness. Not too thick or thin.

I used a dark silver color, along the lines of AEV's darker wheel finish.

Worked well for me at a very low cost. just fyi.

The key to good paint is a good primer. Somebody up above mentioned the self-etching primer and I'll never do another metal piece on my XJ without it. I had a bumper powder coated a few years ago and it didn't make it one year without showing some rust. Since I've used the self-etching primer first and then used a regular automotive primer followed by paint or bedliner I've never had rust even try to come back from underneath the paint. Duplicolor makes a self-etching primer that I know is sold at Autozone and probably a bunch of other places. It's' good stuff.

I would use and have used automotive paint, Acrylic enamal with a catalist to handen it.You can get any color-body color?. It will not be the cheapest but will last the longest and be the most chip resistant. Naturally good prep work is mandatory. This will be the next best to powder coating YOU can do at home.

I would actually stray away from acrylic enamel. There about 4 different types of auto paint:

Spray bomb, which is laquer based. It is the thinnest, weakest, least chemical and UV resistant, and has the worst adhesion properties. Colors and primer are very limited, and cans can add up quick. Biggest plus: it's readily available to the general public and easy to use. Can also be touched up in a matter of minutes. No mixing, catalyzing, etc.

Next up is acylic enamel. A step up from anything laquer based, has good adhesion and UV resistance, pretty tough. In terms of primers there are many more choices as well. Downsides are, it takes FOREVER to dry. Even with the proper reducers and catalysts enamel paint could take easily up to a month to fully cure. It is also not truely chemical resistant. Brake cleaner, methylene chloride, anti-freeze, they can all take it off pretty easily.

Moving along we have single stage urethane. Something I have come to love. No need for clear, just primer, shoot, and leave it. Is the most chemical resistant, hardest, fastest cure times, UV stable, best adhesion, and lays down extremely easy. For painting an entire car you might want to use a basecoat/clearcoat system, but for bumpers, fenderwells, racks, sliders, underhood coating, this is all I use. You can also get it super glossy, satin, flat, or anything in between.

And lastly there is your everyday bascoat/clearcoat system. This will by far last the longest, but is a little more work for something like a bumper. Also more maintenance to keep scratch free, but the clearcoat is a little bit harder than single stage urethane without one. But both share the same properties as far as toughness etc.

In your situation, I would use some DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer from TCPgolbal.com, topped with some Hot Rod Flatz "texture" satin black single stage urethane. Total cost, maybe $75 for materials. Another $40 for the gun, and you will be able to use this stuff for a long long time.

I just did my RigidCo bumper with rattle cans.

I used black rustoleum primer, then one tack coat and two full coats of satin black, then two full coats of the rustoleum hammered. Seems like it will hold up and I like the finish. It should be easy to touch up also.





Doug

DanMan2k06 said:

If you want something a little less involved, POR15 and Hammerite are both as tough as nails.

Herculiner is another good choice but the texture seems to always end up a little uneven, and it fades FAST. Also if you chip it, it's really hard to touch up.

Click to expand...

X2 on the POR15. I have the Hurculiner on my rails and will be putting it on my front bumper. I have not had a problem touching it up and it will not fade if you get the Hurculiner top coat for it.

...? I wasn't aware they made a Herculiner topcoat?

I think I'm going to go with the Rustoleum Hammered. DougJ yours turned out really nice...

A small tip I've learned from using that paint, is use it out of the tin, not the spray can. It has much more solids, resulting in a MUCH harder finish and better gloss. The "hammered" texture also come out looking more uniform as well, pretty cool stuff.

Dustin_XJ said:

X2 on the POR15. I have the Hurculiner on my rails and will be putting it on my front bumper. I have not had a problem touching it up and it will not fade if you get the Hurculiner top coat for it.

Click to expand...

I find it very easy to repair or "touch up"

I just want to say thanks to all for the information on this post. I knew there was a reason that I joined this site.