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how far can you push the front axle fwd?

A

AussieDave

NAXJA Forum User
Location
melbourne australia
i have adjustable uppers and lower control arms.

How far can i push the front axle forward before i start having dramas with the steering, track bar or anything else?


Trying to make a tad more room for tyres and i've already trimmed and fit bushwacker flares, so dont want to trim any more than i have.
 
I was just considering this myself. First I put on adjustable lowers at the same length as stock. Later I put on adjustable uppers, same length as stock. Then I noticed that the wheel sits slightly back from center of wheel well with 4.5" lift. I seem to have almost all the driveline slip yolk to extend. Any reason I can't just do one side then the other and push forward an inch or so?
 
An inch would probably be fine. I have drop brackets and Rusty's adjustable arms and my uppers are almost fully collasped and I'm still pushed forward....and I don't really want to make the lowers any small because then my coil would be bowing out and my shock mount would not be horizontal. I don't know how much further forward I am than stock though. I'd say probably 2".
 
i'm at about a 2" stretch in front

my coil buckets are located directly above my axle tube as opposed to forward of the tube though.

steering is fine even with a d44 and waggy pitman arm and relatively low lift height. my tnt trackbar kisses my rockcrusher diff cover (dana44) at full stuff, but it's only noticable from where the paint wore off. doesn't cause any issues.
 
I have mine pushed forwards about 2 inches, my coils are leaning a little, but they aren't rubbing the bumpstops or anything, I have been running it this way for about a year with no significant issues.
 
I don't know how far mine are pushed out, but I'm guessing about 2" or so. I've been driving it like this for a while and it does get a little squirrely every now and then, but I it's probably because I'm running a Rugged Ridge steering set up still under the knuckle. Here's a pic of how it's currently sitting. It's the blue one behind my daughter's XJ.

DSC00838.jpg
 
Remember that if your control arms are not parallel with the ground, as you push the wheel upwards, it ends of rotating the tire forward. So with a large lift and short arms, the wheels will not be sitting centered in the wheel well when not flexed. If you make it that way, you will most likely clip your fender in the front when you flex.

Along with comfort of ride and flex, this is one of the reasons why long arms are popular. Remember cosine from school?
 
azshtr said:
I was just considering this myself. First I put on adjustable lowers at the same length as stock. Later I put on adjustable uppers, same length as stock. Then I noticed that the wheel sits slightly back from center of wheel well with 4.5" lift. I seem to have almost all the driveline slip yolk to extend. Any reason I can't just do one side then the other and push forward an inch or so?
Click to expand...

you can move the axle forward about 1" or so depending on lift height and as long as you have good caster and pinion angle(control arm length). just make sure the steering is not binding or rubbing anything and the trackbar is not interfering with the front diff cover.

you have adjustable arms so you should set them up to have the correct caster and pinion angle while having the axle centered in the wheel well.
 
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