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Noticed something odd... (pictures)

Crusher16

RRC President
NAXJA Member
Location
Richardson, TX
So I pulled up to park next to my roommate's XJ and noticed something weird. The driver side of his rear axle sits further back then it should. Passenger side is fine.

Previous owner put 2" lift blocks in the rear. I'm just trying to figure out why this would happen. He is the 5th owner of this XJ that is originally from New York, so its a rust bucket that he is planning of dumping ASAP, but I am just curious as to WTF is going on.

DSCN0563.jpg


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possible broke or bent shock mount or spring perch? warped axle? mebbe one shock is too short?:dunno:
 
possible broke or bent shock mount or spring perch? warped axle? mebbe one shock is too short?:dunno:

Actually, the PO also broke 3 of the 4 shocks bolts for the rear, so his driver side shock is just attached to the axle, not the body mounts. Hmm...
 
I'm no expert but isn't there a pin on the leaf springs that goes into a hole on the spring perch on the axle?
Maybe with the 2" lift blocks the axle worked itself loose from the U-bolts and moved back the amount you see.
Just my 2 pennies worth
 
that and i just noticed his leaf springs on that side are FLAT
 
the shock has nothing to do with the axle placement.
My first thought is that the 2" block slipped letting the axle slide back.
2nd guess is the front of the leaf spring eye on the bad side is gone or really dead.
And I can tell from the pics that the leafs are actually inverted, and the drivers side does look inverted more than the passenger side
get us a pic from underneath of those areas.
 
That picture is scary! Lift blocks are probably on wrong. Only other answers could be wrong spring, front spring mount smashed up but good, axle not located by bolt in spring. Looks like a death trap.
 
I'm thinking its the centering pin. I was checking out the leaf spring and looks like the middle leaf has been sliding around along with the clamps. Notice the spring in this picture.

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His XJ is now on hiatus until we get this sorted out.
 
Looks like you got a severe case of chronic wheelbase elongation.
 
I'm no expert but isn't there a pin on the leaf springs that goes into a hole on the spring perch on the axle?
Maybe with the 2" lift blocks the axle worked itself loose from the U-bolts and moved back the amount you see.
Just my 2 pennies worth

x2. I too am no expert, but I had some lift blocks on my junk for a while. I don't think the leafs flattening out would shift it backwards, only would lower the body down. If the u-bolts weren't torqued down evenly and the centering pin worked it's way out of its hole or sheared off I could see it moving back with the torque of the tires moving forward. I would jack it up and loosen the u-bolts on that side until you can move the block. If it moves more than an 1/8" or so either way I would think its not in the hole. The block should have a hole in it's top for the spring centering pin and it's own centering tab on the bottom.

Hope this helps.
 
The centering pin is bad (rtfo) in the leaf pack. RUSTED THE F out! When the center bolt breaks... the leaves seperate and start to slide around; therefore, wysiwyg. Tire in the fore or aft position.

You will have to remove the ubolts on this side and let the spring droop. You may need a punch to get the pieces of the old bolt out. You need to measure the thickness of the good spring to figure out the minimum length bolt you will need to replace it. Get a hi-grade bolt about an 1.5 - 2" longer. You will have to use the bolt to pull the individual leaves back together. You will also have to take the head of the bolt to a grinder to round the edes so it will fit the hole in the spring perch. Pull the spring together and take a punch and slide the spring retainers back into place. Bolt axle back up and torque.
 
The centering pin is bad (rtfo) in the leaf pack. RUSTED THE F out! When the center bolt breaks... the leaves seperate and start to slide around; therefore, wysiwyg. Tire in the fore or aft position.

You will have to remove the ubolts on this side and let the spring droop. You may need a punch to get the pieces of the old bolt out. You need to measure the thickness of the good spring to figure out the minimum length bolt you will need to replace it. Get a hi-grade bolt about an 1.5 - 2" longer. You will have to use the bolt to pull the individual leaves back together. You will also have to take the head of the bolt to a grinder to round the edes so it will fit the hole in the spring perch. Pull the spring together and take a punch and slide the spring retainers back into place. Bolt axle back up and torque.

They make new center pin bolts for this very application, don't mess around just buy the real deal. I got mine from bumper to bumper but I know they have them elsewhere.
 
They make new center pin bolts for this very application, don't mess around just buy the real deal. I got mine from bumper to bumper but I know they have them elsewhere.

yah. dont try to preform a "presidential solution" when the propper part is cheap and readily available
 
Alright. So just need to get a stock length one?
 
get a picture of the side thats back more on the inside where the leafs sit on the perch, i want to see that area.
 
ya thats gotta be the center pin, stock lenth is fine though you might have to cut them to lenth once there in depending on the brand you get.
 
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ya thats gotta be the center pin, stock lenth is fine though you might have to cut them to lenth once there in depending on the brand you get.


That's why I said a longer bolt, to compress the spring.

A cheap and simple fix since I live 10 miles from the nearest parts store.

:farmer:
 
May be relevant or it may not. But the springs aren't equal length (from the center pin) front and rear. They are significantly longer from the center pin to the rear eye, than from the center pin to the front eye.
Is it possible to put the spring in bassackwords?
 
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