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1990 XJ 4.0 Engine and accessories electrical failure while driving

grimah1w

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Woodlawn, TN
Engine shut down and accessories turned off (died) while driving. Complete failure of electrics powering ignition and accessories. Lights work fine, hazards worked..even dome lights light when door opened. replaced ignition switch road side...did not fix. fuses on fuse panel driver side lower are all ok.
accessories will not power--blower motor, radio -- nogo
ignition -- no power
start -- no power

buzzer for key in ignition works.
lights work
fog lights work
dome lights work
door locks work

smelled like burned electic component when it happened...driver side interior
thought that ignition switch may have failed..replaced but did not fix problem.
searched but got random returns mostly to do with partial engine power or windows/door lock not working...
ideas?
 
Disconnect battery, pull fuse panel loose from firewall, inspect for shorts.

And you replaced the ignition switch at the base of the steering column and not the lock cylinder, right? Is the remote rod properly engaging the ignition switch?
 
Igition switch replaced, rod engaged, switch moves through positions, no power to the switch is my conclusion...don't know why.

will pull panel and look. no fuses in the panel were blown.

Battery is fresh. in the circuit, what is between battery and the ignition switch?
 
Check the C101 bulkhead connector, next to brake booster, under the clutch master cylinder (manual trans). That is where everything passes from the engine compartment into the cabin and is known for corroding.
 
Consider using a voltmeter for checking electrical before replacing parts. It would be easy to check for voltage to the ignition switch. And now, because it has been replaced, you also have the possiblity of it being out of adjustment. Voltmeter (or multimeter) is a mandatory tool costing under $10 for anyone wishing to maintain a 19 year old vehicle. It's great even for checking fuses. Sometimes they don't look burnt but they are. In lieu of a multimeter, a test lamp for $2 can also check most circuits.
 
own a multi-meter etc...prob is they are in TN with most of my stuff at house and here in Tampa have less complete tool capability...did check with continuity checker today and found the culprit...fusible link was toast errr melted cheese...replaced and she is back in action. not sure why the fusible failed but it did and I replaced with similar gauge Chrysler fusible link:)
 
Go to the starter relay on the passenger side fenderwell.

There is one large lug and a positive cable from the battery, then a number of other wires that distribute power--each of those wires has a fusible link.
 
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