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Front Driveshaft Compression

cher96

cher96

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Florida
I have a 5" Short Arm Lift on my '96 XJ. I have set my Adjustable Upper Control Arms to 15+1/4"s, my Lowers to 16+5/8"s. I have noticed Compression Issues with my Front Driveshaft. Has anyone ever had to Shorten their Front Driveshaft?

Why I ask? I just finished replacing my NP231 because it had a Huge Hole punched into it by my old FDS when it Blew the U-Joint. The old FDS also knocked out all my TC Shift Linkage. I am a bit worried this will happen again when the Front High Pinion swings backward in an Arc due to Flex or Dropping of the Front Axle Assembly.

Has this ever happened before to anyone you knew?
What did they do about it?
Where might I inquire to purchase a New FDS with the proper length?
Any and All Replies are Appreciated.

Thank you.
 
If anything the distance should stay fairly constant and not really move more than 3/4" in/out at most.

Remove the coils and raise/lower the front axle assembly taking measurements from yoke-yoke at both extremes to see how much travel is required.
 
I've never heard of the front D/S having that issue on a short-arm kit, doesn't seem like there'd be enough droop to bind the yoke. Are the control arms adjustable? If the D/S is at full slip-yoke stuff when the Jeep is "at rest", maybe it'd compress enough to jam the T-case yoke. Otherwise, like was mentioned, it's on a pretty fixed travel path, shouldn't slip much in and out.
 
what is your wheelbase? it might be too short. with the adjustable arms you should be able to push it forward a little bit to pull the shaft out some. just my .02 tho

G
 
If you need a shorter drive shaft the front drive shaft from a manual is shorter then an auto. That may or may not help you out if you need a shorter shaft. I think you'd be better off trying to extend your control arms.
 
Re: Front Driveshaft Compression Issue

"Are the control arms adjustable?"

Yes, they are Adjustable. I have set my Upper Adjustable Control Arms to 15+1/4"s, my Lower Adjustable Control Arms to 16+5/8"s.

"What is your wheelbase?"

About 101.25"s. Just a little shy of Stock which is 101.4"

I don't have our Camera or I would post a photo of how the Front Slip Yoke looks. It appears to only have about a 1/2" Play.

You would not beleive the Huge Hole the Old FDS punched into the TC. I don't have the Old TC or I would post a Photo of that too.

I do not want to pay to have my FDS Shortened if that is not the issue.

I appreciate all your input. Thank you.
 
Mutant_Xj said:
If you need a shorter drive shaft the front drive shaft from a manual is shorter then an auto. That may or may not help you out if you need a shorter shaft. I think you'd be better off trying to extend your control arms.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Does anyone know how long either Shaft is?

or

How much shorter a Manual Style FDS is compared to an AW4 Style FDS?

Thanks
 
Extend all your control arms as much as is safe and make sure the caster is in range and you should not have a problem. You can stretch the wheelbase a fair amount with no real issues.
 
jeeperjohn said:
Extend all your control arms as much as is safe and make sure the caster is in range and you should not have a problem. You can stretch the wheelbase a fair amount with no real issues.
Click to expand...

I have ordered 33x12.50 BFGs. Wouldn't it put the tires too far forward and not centered in the Well? I have only 5"s of Lift with Full Cut Outs.
 
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Talked to Tom Woods (1-877-497-4238) and they said it was unlikely that FDS Compression was my problem. They said the Ball could have bound up on the DS. Recommended I go with their FDS for super Flexability and that if I should go to a higher Lift I could have it lengthened for only $65. His FDS range from $269 to $299. Ouch!

IDK, but I'm pretty broke right now. I really wanted to upgrade to 33x12.50 BFGs. Choices.
 
The new Spicer center ball kit is only around $50 and is if you have moderate mechanical skills its not too bad to install. This is a good time to do new Spicer U-joints and they will run you $20 each. So for about $120 you could have a good shaft as long as the slip joint is in good shape
 
Go to a u-pull yard and get another front shaft for about $20. Chances are it'll be good enough to just bolt in and use it.
 
xjtrailrider said:
The new Spicer center ball kit is only around $50 and is if you have moderate mechanical skills its not too bad to install. This is a good time to do new Spicer U-joints and they will run you $20 each. So for about $120 you could have a good shaft as long as the slip joint is in good shape
Click to expand...

I have been trying to do a search for these products but to no avail. All I am getting is a Ball Joint Kit.

Anyone know where I can get these?

Thanks
 
At that height its a definate problem,DB's would be the best fix.That will massively reduce the axle moving rearward
 
RCP Phx said:
At that height its a definate problem,DB's would be the best fix.That will massively reduce the axle moving rearward
Click to expand...

Okay, back up and explain, I'm not sure what you mean.
:dunno:
I'm also curious about the center ball replacement or rebuild kit, but as has already been noted, front drive shafts are common and cheap at the junk yards.
 
Jump This said:
Okay, back up and explain, I'm not sure what you mean.
:dunno:
I'm also curious about the center ball replacement or rebuild kit, but as has already been noted, front drive shafts are common and cheap at the junk yards.
Click to expand...
At 5" of lift and "No" DB's,the axle swings back alot,compressing the shaft "Alot"(been there,done that)!
Depending on the actual lift height,DB's keep the CA's fairly flat at ride height and dramatically reduce the amount the axle moves rearward when the axle drops out(not to mention the improved ride/flex)!
 
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Which one should I go with?

Rubicon Express Control Arm Drop Brackets (RE9900) $269.95

RE9900.jpg


or

Rough Country Control Arm Drop Kit (Part #: 1627) $189.95

HK_1627.jpg
 
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Last edited:
Has anyone had history with either DB Kit?

How was the Flex and if possible why would you recommend (or not) the one you have?
 
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