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Cherokeekid88
May 27th, 2009, 20:15
Built some Long arms about a month back and had a friend just cut and weld me a simple bracket and weld it to the bottom of the frame and mount the arms up. Little did I know how much I would be flamed for it, So I fabbed up some new mounts and decided to bolt them up in 5 places.
Design:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/Cherokeekid88/0515091630-00.jpg
Cut and welded (My first welds ever!)
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/Cherokeekid88/0520091328-00.jpg
Primered:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/Cherokeekid88/0520091436-00.jpg
If you look closely, You can see my Southeast chapter NAXJA sticker!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/Cherokeekid88/0527091627-00.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/Cherokeekid88/0527091628-01.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/Cherokeekid88/0527091628-00.jpg

High2by
May 27th, 2009, 22:44
Nice. Did you put sleeves through the "frame" for the two bolts in the side? Just curious. I like the simple design.

JeepAddict85
May 28th, 2009, 09:05
still using stock upper mounts...4 link?

shortxjdoug
May 28th, 2009, 10:54
still using stock upper mounts...4 link?


if thats the case its not a longarm setup its a FUBR'ed setup ;)

JeepAddict85
May 28th, 2009, 12:32
or 3 like it with a single upper running to the passenger side...that'd go nicely with your lowers

bluejeepkid
May 28th, 2009, 12:34
looks good man

Cherokeekid88
May 31st, 2009, 18:29
Very simple design. I just based it off of the Teraflex long arm mounts. Right now I still have the stock uppers in place, but is not bad at all. Im just waiting to see if I want to go radius or do a 3 link.....

Cherokeekid88
May 31st, 2009, 18:31
Nice. Did you put sleeves through the "frame" for the two bolts in the side? Just curious. I like the simple design.

Yeah i just cut the holes to 1/2" and then drill 1 access hole on eash side and used a box wrench to tighten everything down. I just didn't feel comfortable about using self tapping bolts.

XJfire75
May 31st, 2009, 18:47
How thick are the angle peices?

Looks good. If I had a beater this is what I'd do with a 3-link set-up.

Cherokeekid88
May 31st, 2009, 20:37
The angle pieces are 3/16" HR steel. The tabs are 1/4" CNC cut. The mounts are VERY beefy. Just trying to figure out a way to mount a 3rd link and eliminate 1 of the uppers.

Thanks for the compliments.

shortxjdoug
May 31st, 2009, 21:35
Very simple design. I just based it off of the Teraflex long arm mounts. Right now I still have the stock uppers in place, but is not bad at all. Im just waiting to see if I want to go radius or do a 3 link.....


yikes, i hope you dont flex the suspension at all .... 3 link it, it is far superior to a radius arm i hated wheeling an radius setup its just as simple to pull off as well..

Cherokeekid88
June 2nd, 2009, 13:20
OK so. Based off the RK 3 Link kit, the 3rd link is mounted on the driver's side UCM. Any reason that it should be the drivers side versus the passenger side? Also I need some ideas on how to mount the 3rd link.....Build a mount and weld it to my existing long arm mount or just weld and/or bolt a separate mount on the inside of the frame rail and then mount the 3rd upper link?

JeepAddict85
June 2nd, 2009, 13:31
if you google it you can see the brackets. the drivers side has an additional mounting point on the inside of the unibody rail for the single upper, which goes to the mount above the diff. I dont think it matters which side it goes on. the lowers locate axle in wheel well, the upper sets pinion angle.

Your inbox is full, i couldnt PM you back

aparke4
June 2nd, 2009, 13:53
I did a similar thing but went with a radius arm set up like rustys or TNT's - RK lowers (solid stock!) from a grand cherokee (cut to length) and buzzed on tabs and boxed them in with daystar adjustable uppers - RK joints on the long arms and daystar flex joint at tabs - RK upper joint at pumkin/ axle/ driverside and simple bushing at pass side mount on axle - had RE drop brackets before with braces and this made the front flex and ride great - just another route u could go

only downside is only 2 frame side mounts - if one fails u are stuck - i do carry 1 extra joint though... they are the gen 1 arms so no bend and do rub some at full lock with tires (37x12.50) with 15x10 rims and spidertrax spacers

Achmed
June 2nd, 2009, 14:07
Since the tabs arent very long, it looks like the arm would bet ALL INTO the unibody rail if you tried to stuff the tire up top.

shortxjdoug
June 2nd, 2009, 19:48
OK so. Based off the RK 3 Link kit, the 3rd link is mounted on the driver's side UCM. Any reason that it should be the drivers side versus the passenger side? Also I need some ideas on how to mount the 3rd link.....Build a mount and weld it to my existing long arm mount or just weld and/or bolt a separate mount on the inside of the frame rail and then mount the 3rd upper link?


no difference on PS versus DS mines going to run on the passenger side since theres less going on on that side of the jeep (no fuel lines, driveline etc) id run about a foot of 10 gauge plate with some rosette welds to te frame then just weld tabs so that the frameside joint is paralell to the ground.... a 3/4 hiem should suffice, brian is running 3/4 in his upper in the buggy and its holding a d60 and 42's in place just fine... then on the axle side just use a box end and bolt it to your existing UCA mount, id brace it though the factory mounts have been known to fail even with stock suspensions...

Shorty
June 3rd, 2009, 05:46
Yeah i just cut the holes to 1/2" and then drill 1 access hole on eash side and used a box wrench to tighten everything down. I just didn't feel comfortable about using self tapping bolts.

I hear ya on the self tappers!

I'm not sure I understand your answer to the "sleeves" though. You did or didn't use sleeves through the horizontal bolts? I would be kinda leery of the mounts without anything but the washers protecting against pull through.

I'm definitely digging the mounts, though-- K.I.S.S. principal at it's best!!

JeepAddict85
June 3rd, 2009, 06:05
soundes like he drilled one side out bigger to slide the sleeve in...thats how i took it

Cherokeekid88
June 3rd, 2009, 10:43
I hear ya on the self tappers!

I'm not sure I understand your answer to the "sleeves" though. You did or didn't use sleeves through the horizontal bolts? I would be kinda leery of the mounts without anything but the washers protecting against pull through.

I'm definitely digging the mounts, though-- K.I.S.S. principal at it's best!!

Im not sure I understand what you mean by sleeves....You mean sleeves in the bushings? If so, Yes I used sleeves. I mean, I know that my mounts are not the most ideal mounts, but I like them and they are the first things I have ever fabricated from scratch. Im very proud of them and even though a couple weld beads in a few places would be better, these things are not going to go anywhere.

JeepAddict85
June 3rd, 2009, 13:04
by sleeves he means in the unibody rails. the sleeves go inside to help strengthen and distribute the load/stress on the metal there, and prevent you from crushing in the rails at that point. the bolt goes through the sleeves then.

whitneyj
June 4th, 2009, 03:24
From his build thread on nc4x4.com he didn't sleeve the frame. He cut an access hole to get the nuts on the bolts inside the rail.

Don't take the flaming negatively there Cherokeekid, we're just looking out for your safety and everyone else's on the road. If I were you, I'd pull those grade 5 bolts out from those mounts, and stitch weld around the mounts and run a plate on the inside of the rail to hold the nuts. Better yet, cut some tubing and run that inside the frame rail-that's what everyone means by sleeving. The tube will keep the rails from bending inward when you tighten the bolts.

You're doing a pretty good job on your first fab job, but everyone's first fab job needs treaking. Hell if you saw what my jeep looks like. . .:)

JeepAddict85
June 4th, 2009, 05:11
^ we arent flaming, just offering suggestions for improvements. Definitely a good job on your first fab job

Shorty
June 5th, 2009, 19:21
Im not sure I understand what you mean by sleeves....You mean sleeves in the bushings? If so, Yes I used sleeves

to illustrate the sleeve better, picture the sleeve in the middle of the bushing placed inside the "frame" rail with the bolt run through it and a nut on the inner side "pinching the sleeve inside the rail. It would greatly reduce the amount of stress on any single point in the attachment and help keep the arms/ mounts from pulling through the rail. I'm still digging the mounts, and definitely not trying to "flame" you for your methods-- just trying to help you get the most out of your effort. :peace: