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Removing Plug Wires
- Thread starter mgt
- Start date
Re: removing plug wires
is this in modified tech because your using wires or plugs that arnt stock? JK
try twisting the boots about 1/4-1/2 turn, dont turn too much as you might damage the wire connection in boot.
is this on a cool or hot engine? might come off easier on a warm engine
is this in modified tech because your using wires or plugs that arnt stock? JK
try twisting the boots about 1/4-1/2 turn, dont turn too much as you might damage the wire connection in boot.
is this on a cool or hot engine? might come off easier on a warm engine
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Those plug wire pliers can come in handy, I have a pair myself.
Grip the boot as close down to the body of the plug as you can, then twist it about 1/4-turn each way. Then pull.
Even if you're planning to replace the wires, you won't be able to get a socket on the plugs if you leave the boot on there.
And, as mentioned, used some dielectric grease (may come with the new wire kit, else you can buy a small tube) around the plug body when you put the new wires on. If I find it necessary to use, I'll put a small bead around the plug porcelain about 1/4" down from the metal nipple where the wire connects - the boot will smear it the rest of the way down.
Grip the boot as close down to the body of the plug as you can, then twist it about 1/4-turn each way. Then pull.
Even if you're planning to replace the wires, you won't be able to get a socket on the plugs if you leave the boot on there.
And, as mentioned, used some dielectric grease (may come with the new wire kit, else you can buy a small tube) around the plug body when you put the new wires on. If I find it necessary to use, I'll put a small bead around the plug porcelain about 1/4" down from the metal nipple where the wire connects - the boot will smear it the rest of the way down.
heavyequipment
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Near Tucson, AZ
You want a tool that pulls on the engine end of the boot. If you pull on the engine end, it gets tighter. If you pull on the other end it expands. Think of a "Chinese finger trap." The tool usually looks like a bent piece of metal with a notch on the short leg and a handle on the long leg. You fit the notch around the spark plug's ceramic and pull. If it stlll won't come off, just slit the boot up the side and get new ones.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Next time, if you want to save your wires, use something to break the seal between the plug and boot.
A bent paper clip will work or a hook/scribe with a 90 degree bend.
A bent paper clip will work or a hook/scribe with a 90 degree bend.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Small tube, the heck with that, get the big toothpaste sized tube, I use it everywhere.
Same with anti-seize, no more tubes for me, I just buy the big bottle with the screw off lid and brush. And I only use the copper based antiseize now.
Did my radiator yesterday. 3 years ago I had it apart for the new engine, it was battle getting some of the bolts off back then, I reassembled with the copper stuff and everything came off with no effort, no broken capture nuts, no broken studs on the top of the radiator, no stripped torx.
must be a PA thing, my 89 is painted with anti-seize. i dont put any bolt/nut in anymore without it.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
I'll be able to recycle mine just for the copper in the anti-seize LOL..
bluejeepkid
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bullhead City
haha same here
