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Need u-joint help PLEASE!!!!!!

vortex

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chehalis, Wa
Is there a difference in the size for a u-joint from a dana 35 and a chrysler 8.25?

if so i need to take this u-joint back .I just had my u-joint fall apart on the FREE WAY WTF !!! so now i have tons of damage and i have to fix it all on my dime....:soapbox::soapbox::soapbox::soapbox::soapbox::soapbox:

-PJ-
 
No, they are both 1310 Ujoints


What happened is when i put it in the the caps were bottoming out and i couldn't get the retainers in unless the U joint was SUPER STIFF, almost to the poin that i could not rotate it by hand.


-PJ-
 
Last edited:
So, does that mean you skipped putting in the retainers?

There are 2 scenarios that happen to me.

1) The cap doesn't fit all the way. I take the cap off and look for a "missing" needle bearing. It's usually at the top of the cap.

2) The cap fits fine, but the joint is stiff. I take a socket and rap the other cap. That usually loosens it up abit.

3) The rear joint doesn't fit in the yoke just right. Same as #1, then if OK, I usually take a C-Clamp and compress it so it fits between the tabs on the yoke. If one of those tabs are missing, or you didn't get the u-joint to seat all the way into the diff yoke, it will toss a cap and fail miserably.

I've driven on new u-joints when they are "stiff", and over a few miles they always loosen up.

-Ron

edit: I noticed that I can't count today. That would be "3" things ;)
 
Last edited:
So, does that mean you skipped putting in the retainers?

There are 2 scenarios that happen to me.

1) The cap doesn't fit all the way. I take the cap off and look for a "missing" needle bearing. It's usually at the top of the cap.

2) The cap fits fine, but the joint is stiff. I take a socket and rap the other cap. That usually loosens it up abit.

3) The rear joint doesn't fit in the yoke just right. Same as #1, then if OK, I usually take a C-Clamp and compress it so it fits between the tabs on the yoke. If one of those tabs are missing, or you didn't get the u-joint to seat all the way into the diff yoke, it will toss a cap and fail miserably.

I've driven on new u-joints when they are "stiff", and over a few miles they always loosen up.

-Ron

I DID put the retainers in but it was REALLY REALLY REALLY stiff.

-PJ-
 
I like Zuki-Ron have ran u-joints that once installed were so stiff that they would hardly move. Once I ran on them they loosened up.
 
So I assume it's the u-joint at the rear diff that blew up? The caps fit nice and snug into their cradles on both the driveline and pinion yoke, correct? The u-bolts on the pinion yoke were tightened nice and snug but not reefed on, yes?


Did you check the rear driveline u-joint holes to see if they were perpendicular, i.e. in a straight line through the two holes? Sometimes a rear driveline yoke will get bent, meaning you have to really struggle to get the u-joint to align during installation, and it will be super tight once it's in. Even a straight d/l yoke can seem very tight, I tap the meaty part of each yoke 3 or 4 times with a hammer and work the u-joint back and forth on it's axis, this usually loosens it up.

I'd bet you had a bent yoke on that driveline. Sucks man, pick up the pieces and get a new rear d/l.
 
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