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Not Turning Over

nmcommando

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oklahoma
OK. Here it goes, i have been having trouble here lately to get my jeep to start. What i mean by this is that sometimes the jeep would not start when i turned the key or it would start to turn so slow that i could hear the oil or what not turning around in the motor. But then i would wait a little bit and would start right up. Now though my jeep will not start just makes a clicking sound one time when i turn the key. But they will sometimes turn once or twice making that sloshing sound.
 
This sounds like typical bad connections on battery. Usual procedure is to take apart all battery and ground connections, clean them with scotch brite or sandpaper, then electrical contact or brake cleaner or spray start, then reassemble.
 
x2 on cleaning the connections and renew the grounds.

Fully charge the battery and have it load tested.
 
Ok well i just changed out the battery but nothing seem to change. On the volt meter the voltage won't go about the red when the key is turned on and i just cleaned the connections.
 
Ok well i just changed out the battery but nothing seem to change. On the volt meter the voltage won't go about the red when the key is turned on and i just cleaned the connections.

Ok, when you turn the key to the ON position it should read static battery voltage, 12v. You ain't got 12v static, your battery is not fully charged and/or your cable ends and grounds need servicing/replacement.

With a fully charged battery that passes a load test, good cables with clean connections and renewed grounds, it will crank UNLESS: starter is bad or starter solenoid is bad or starter relay is bad.

You can determine if the starter relay is the problem by jumping the main cable and positive solenoid lug on the starter--NOTE: key off, park/neutral, and parking brake on, so you don't run yourself over.

However, if you haven't taken care of the battery/cables/grounds, then you can't determine squat.
 
Ok well i just changed out the battery but nothing seem to change. On the volt meter the voltage won't go about the red when the key is turned on and i just cleaned the connections.

If the meter won't show over 12 volts, either the battery does not have the charge, or the connections are bad. Or the meter is bad, but if it won't crank, the meter may be right. What about jumper cables from a known good vehicle?
 
Ok thanks guys i found out that my starter was bad had a mechanic come over and check it he did some tests and determined it was bad. Sorry about having to post this thread but thanks for the help. I took that starter to auto zone already cause i thought that is what is was but they said my starter was good. But when i took it yesterday they said it was bad made me pretty mad but it is working now.
 
I've had the exact symptoms, too. I checked the batt voltage, cleaned the cables, etc etc. It also turned out to be a worn out starter - 135K.

The bench test of starters at auto parts houses can't load them, only do a circuit check, engage the solenoid, and free spin. They can only tell you what the machine says - it's up to the mechanic who pulled the starter to assess all the other information.

A factory starter with over 100k, or a replacement with over 60k, is always suspect in this situation, aloing with all the other stuff. Time/mileage trumps a bench test result everytime in my experience.

Same for batteries - and using an external charger to get them up is required on fuel injected late models. The electronic alternators don't work at lower voltages, that's an old school mechanical regulator process that has no place these days.
 
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