View Full Version : Many problems, Need Good Advice!
edwardsmr2002
October 8th, 2006, 15:57
I bought an 84 Jeep Wagoneer from a friend at work. It has the 2.5 liter 4 cyl., NP207 transfer case, d30 front and d35 rear diffs. As far as I know everything is stock. I bought it just as mainly a toy/work vehicle.
First problem, When I put it in 4wd, lo or hi, and try to take a tight turn, the front axle seems to bind up, almost stopping the jeep. I can drive though it, but It makes a lot of popping and grinding noises. It does it in forward or reverse, and on dirt or pavement. I've searched and searched and I still don't know for sure what it is for sure. I thought maybe it was the front axle cv's. Is it a straight axle swap from cvs to ujoint axles on the d30. Could i just go to napa and tell them I want axle shafts from 19XX year CHerokee and they would fit without alterations? Could it be the front driveshaft?
Second problem, my speedo doesn't work. I pulled the cable, lubed it, reinstalled it, made sure the cable was seated in the cluster, pulled the speedo gear on the transfer case and made sure that it was good(it was), reinstalled the the speedo gear and housing, checked to see if it was meshing inside the transfer case(it was, it wouldn't spin), and then reinstalled the cable. The speedo will get up to about 15mph if I drive for a long time at maybe 50mph. I pulled the cluster and watched the cable and it spins faster the faster I go. Is there anything I missed? I think the cluster itself is bad. Oh yeah, the odometer works just fine too.
Last problem, I can't decide on a lift and tire combo. I have been looking at the Rustys 3" Springpack kit. I don't want anything too extreme, it will see limited trail use, and limited road use. I also have been considering a 2" lift, but I need new Leafsprings, and I do not want to spend more than $500 on a lift. As for tires, I have no Idea what I want. Something that will get me good traction in dirt and won't wear out every 10 months. Goodyear Wrangler or BFG mud terrains are some that i have been looking at. Again I don't want to spend a ton, I would like to stay under $800 for steelies and tires. Any comments welcome , as well as backspacing Ideas and tire sizes for different lifts.
Slo-Sho
October 8th, 2006, 21:37
As far as the 1st problem....Don't try to turn full lock in P/T 4wd on dry ground or even wet pavement. You just don't do it...the popping sounds are clearly a warning to stop what you're doing. The second problem sounds like a shot speedo head, it happens. Lastly, the pic below is a 90 equipped with the $418 3" Rusty's Lift and 31" MTBC's.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/Slo-Sho/muddyjeepresize.jpg
Frank Z
October 8th, 2006, 21:37
1. Any chance there's a locke installed in the front Diff?
2. If the Ododmeter is still working then you've got a bad speedometer.
3. Lift and tires? Too many options and too many variables to provide you with an exact answer. It's going to be up to you and the type of offroad driving you plan on doing. Mud, Rocks, Sand?
jeepdude10000
October 8th, 2006, 22:02
well a 3" is the way to go, as for tires, i like A/T's for on and off road.
carnuck
October 9th, 2006, 00:34
Front diff lincoln locked?
edwardsmr2002
October 9th, 2006, 04:54
As far as the 4wd goes, it does it in mud too. It does it whenever its in 4wd and the steering is turned more than a half a turn in either direction and im trying to move forward. But I can turn the wheel as sharp as I want in 2wd and it doesn't do it.
As far as a lincoln locked front diff, what do I look for? I don't think it is, but who knows what people do to cars and why.
For my off road driving habits, mosty dirt and mud with a bit of rock and sand thrown in.
Thanks for the replys!
loke
October 9th, 2006, 06:30
I have an 85 with the same engine and transfer case. I went with a 3" Rusty AAL kit and 31" TRXUS MT's. I have been very happy with the set up for the mild wheeling I'm doing and would recommend it for others as well.
Only thing I would do different would be buying the complete spring pack as my rear is sagging a lot.
edwardsmr2002
October 9th, 2006, 07:23
Thats why I want new leaves too, mine are sagging really bad.
RichP
October 9th, 2006, 07:59
Check the universals on the ends of the axles, they do go bad thru normal use.
Usually they rust out...
edwardsmr2002
October 9th, 2006, 13:02
RichP, It has CV's instead of universal joints. Is it a straight swap from CV's to Universals?
edwardsmr2002
October 9th, 2006, 18:41
Anyone?
jeepdude10000
October 9th, 2006, 19:41
no u have CV on ur driveshaft, and universals in the axel.
Frank Z
October 9th, 2006, 20:37
No, it's a double cardain joint on the drive shaft, u-joint on the axles.
edwardsmr2002
October 10th, 2006, 04:28
Are you sure that no years came with cv joints on the front axle? It really looks like a cv joint, with a torn boot and grease leaking out. It looks nothing like any picture I've seen of a universal joint.
edwardsmr2002
October 10th, 2006, 04:33
Whats this for?
http://shop.jeeppartstore.com/buy.php?make_text=jeep&model_text=wagoneer&ml=wago--002&year=1984&part_name=axle_assembly&brand_name=cvu&my=1&make_code=
carnuck
October 10th, 2006, 07:50
The early XJs could have CV or Ujoint axles. ('84 to '86, usually with NP229 tcase)
jeepdude10000
October 10th, 2006, 10:22
Whats this for?
http://shop.jeeppartstore.com/buy.php?make_text=jeep&model_text=wagoneer&ml=wago--002&year=1984&part_name=axle_assembly&brand_name=cvu&my=1&make_code=
thats for an independent dront suspension.
edwardsmr2002
October 10th, 2006, 15:58
When did wagoneers/cherokees have IFS? I must have missed that...
I'm pretty sure that it has CV joints in front.
Is it a direct swap from CV's to Ujoints on the front axle? Or should I just get new CV axles?
jeepdude10000
October 10th, 2006, 18:22
look here u noob, that axel shaft has two CV joints on it, on a solid axel(front 4X4) there is only one!!!!!!!!!!!!
look at the following web page and learn something!!!!
http://xjconnection.jtv.cc/dana30_xj.htm
edwardsmr2002
October 11th, 2006, 04:17
Instead of calling me names or stating the obvious, why not answer my questions? Its the internet dude, calm down a bit.
Now then, are those two different axles swappable?
Okee420
October 11th, 2006, 06:17
Have you pulled the diff cover or tried jacking it up and spinning one tire and see if othr tire spins in opposite direction.May have to get all 4 tires off ground for this,or pull front D.L.Also try spinning tire while turning tire R or L. to localize problem.
Okee420
October 11th, 2006, 06:31
I agree that speedo itself is probably bad.Before my MTR's that I run now that i love, I ran 31 10.50 BFG A/T's on stock rims and got 50,000 plus out of them and was offroad every chance i could get,was very happy with them.It's looking like I will only get 30,000 If im lucky, from 33'' MTR's.
Bainer
October 11th, 2006, 07:13
I would open the Diff Cover just to make sure nothing bad is happening inside. As far as swapping a CV style axle shaft for a u-joint style shaft I can’t help you to much but I can say that the parts catalog for a 1984 XJ does not spec a different case assembly so it could be possible to swap out the shafts. In my opinion a U-Joint shaft would be more robust for an off-road application. From what you’re describing it sounds like a bad CV joint you might take the shaft to a shop that rebuilds CV joints I have done that in the past with my Toyota Camry and had good results.
jeepdude10000
October 11th, 2006, 07:40
Instead of calling me names or stating the obvious, why not answer my questions? Its the internet dude, calm down a bit.
Now then, are those two different axles swappable?
can u take a pic of the CV and post here? or email it to me so i can post , we like pics.
and X2 on taking the diff cover off to take a look inside.
carnuck
October 11th, 2006, 07:50
The other possibility (I thought it was mentioned before, but I don't see it) Different front gear ratio than rear. That will give you bind up. I will someday find out if they are swappable or not because I have a set from a '93 Grand Cherokee (putting them on my Comanche with the knuckles for larger, stronger front brakes and smoother cornering)
jeepdude10000
October 11th, 2006, 15:29
here is what ur axel shaft should look like.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/yjd30convert/yjconvert-1.jpg
edwardsmr2002
October 12th, 2006, 08:15
Here is a picture for everyone. The boot is torn so I pulled it back out of the way.
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/2445/img1202rt7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/3557/img1201gi1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Hope that helps!
jeepdude10000
October 12th, 2006, 10:10
this type of cv axle is more from a Grand cherokee, if u do order just make sure they know what u want other wise u might get a ujoint axle.
a new one should look like this , without the (antilock ring)
http://i6.ebayimg.com/03/i/04/9e/bf/6a_1_b.JPG
edwardsmr2002
October 15th, 2006, 17:26
Thanks for the replys!
cumorglas
October 15th, 2006, 20:06
Are you sure that no years came with cv joints on the front axle? It really looks like a cv joint, with a torn boot and grease leaking out. It looks nothing like any picture I've seen of a universal joint.
some of the early ones most certainly did but they suck and there is no reason to repair them when you can just swap normal ujoint axles in.
dakota93xt
October 15th, 2006, 20:21
wagoneer's are generally the luxury vehicle when we talk XJ's and most are CV joint vehicles for drivability..... if you have a ripped boot the CV is probably shot. replace and see if that doesn't cure the problem.
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