I'm about to finish the installation of my 6.5 inch lift. Finished the passenger side yesterday. Have the upper control arm installed on the drivers side and have one more bolt to go on the Lower (bolt on the axle). I cant move the axle for the life of me!!! Me and my bro both tried with him pushing and me pulling the other side. The axle needs to go forward about half an inch. I measured all the control arms before installing them so its not that. Was just wondering if anyone had any ideas on this (I know its a fairly common thing). We have nothing to attach a come-along too since the front of the garage has nothing to attach it too. Please help. I want to be done with this lift and get it on the road.
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Need help with Lower Control Arm
- Thread starter dan9891
- Start date
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
Try moving the jack around to different spots on the axle. Try different heights at different places. Do you have any ratchet straps? Connect it to your front bumper and then to the axle and try to pull it.
Are you using all 4 adjustable arms without drop brackets on 6.5"? I remember when I ran that way for a short while (until I got drop brackets) it was a real biotch to get everything aligned with those angles...
Are you using all 4 adjustable arms without drop brackets on 6.5"? I remember when I ran that way for a short while (until I got drop brackets) it was a real biotch to get everything aligned with those angles...
- Location
- sacramento
this is what i do. i have a jack stand that has a built in jack.(35$ at kragen)
i put it on the frame rail on the side im trying to get in.
i can then jack up the veichle up or down from that side.
then i use a 3.5 ton floor jack on the side im trying to get to "fit" that way you can drop the axle and raise the frame side.
tweak it all accordingly
lastly if im really close but cant wuite get it,
i have also used a very punch to pry the hole into place and then hammer through a nice grade 10.9 bolt.
its always worked for me.
i put it on the frame rail on the side im trying to get in.
i can then jack up the veichle up or down from that side.
then i use a 3.5 ton floor jack on the side im trying to get to "fit" that way you can drop the axle and raise the frame side.
tweak it all accordingly
lastly if im really close but cant wuite get it,
i have also used a very punch to pry the hole into place and then hammer through a nice grade 10.9 bolt.
its always worked for me.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Is it in the air or on the ground?
If three control arms are bolted up, it's the easiest to get just one while the whole thing is on the ground. Roll the tire back and forth a little and slide the bolt in. You can usually do it by yourself pushing the tire with one foot.
If three control arms are bolted up, it's the easiest to get just one while the whole thing is on the ground. Roll the tire back and forth a little and slide the bolt in. You can usually do it by yourself pushing the tire with one foot.
downhillracer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Chico, Ca
I had this exact same problem when I did mine about a week ago. I tried all the suggestions above but they didnt work. What worked for me was chocking the tire in front and then putting the jeep in reverse to pull the frame away from the axle. Worked like a charm. All i had to do was put it in reverse with my foot on the brake and then back into park and the holes were lined up. Good luck.
Jeep is in the air. I guess we can try bolting on the tires and putting it on the ground, but putting it in reverse isn't an option right now b/c I don't have a rear driveshaft - I did the RE hack n tap, but didn't have the Spicer joint for the front driveshaft I'm using and it won't be here till Wed - I'm hoping to have this done by then so that all I have to do is just install that and be done.
Keep the suggestions coming. Like I said, it's in the air and I've tried a jack on the driver's side, pass side, middle, etc - I can't seem to get it to line up. I guess I could try raising or lowering the Jeep and try all angles again.
I'll give it all a shot tomorrow and post back.
Keep the suggestions coming. Like I said, it's in the air and I've tried a jack on the driver's side, pass side, middle, etc - I can't seem to get it to line up. I guess I could try raising or lowering the Jeep and try all angles again.
I'll give it all a shot tomorrow and post back.
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
What about my question about are you running all adjustable shortarms without drop brackets on 6.5"?
Mutant_Xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Susquehanna Valley
I just put in adjustable LCAs last night and used a ratchet strap to pull the axle to where it needed to be
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
Let me tell you, getting the bolt holes aligned without drop brackets and 7" was a major pain the ass. I got drop brackets in December though when Rough Country had their Christmas sale for $160. Normally they are $180 I think, definitely shouldn't break you bank to get them.....now the bolts line up just great, all I have to do is do a little tugging on the axle with 1 or 2 hands and it comes together. Jackstands under unibody rails and a jack under the axle to raise and lower it, etc.........I haven't use ratchet straps since getting the drop brackets.
Kiefer316
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Crawloardo
It's a pain in the a$$. When i was putting on my 4.5 inch kit from RC the LCA's were a bitch to get bolted in. I had 2 people helping me one pushing the axle one pulling it and one putting the bolt in.
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
What lengths are your arms adjusted to? If they are the wrong lengths (and/or you did not trim the backside of the shock mounts) the shock mounts will be knocking into the control arms not allowing them to be bolted up properly.
redneck
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott/Phoenix AZ
Thats what I have always done with great success. :thumbup:
What would trimming the shock mounts do? They don't seem to be hitting the shock mounts though. I just want to get this done and try and save the $180 for drop brackets. The control arms are adjusted to 17" for the lower and 15 1/2" for the uppers. Thanks to this helpful chart.
Lift...........Lower Control Arms/Upper Control Arms
********Decimal**Fraction**Decimal**Fraction
Stock........15.75.......15 ¾........15.00.......15
2”.............15.92.......16............14.88 .... ...15
3”.............16.09.......16............14.92 .... ...15
4”.............16.33.......16 3/8......15.03.......15
4.5”..........16.47.......16 ½........15.11.......15
5”.............16.62.......16 5/8......15.21.......15 ¼
6”.............16.97.......17............15.44 .... ...15 ½
7”.............17.36.......17 3/8......15.74.......15 ¾
8”.............17.81.......17 ¾........16.09.......16
9”.............18.30.......18 ¼........16.50.......16 ½
10”...........18.82.......18 ¾........16.96.......17
Credit to tonysinnette for the chart on a different thread of mine.
Lift...........Lower Control Arms/Upper Control Arms
********Decimal**Fraction**Decimal**Fraction
Stock........15.75.......15 ¾........15.00.......15
2”.............15.92.......16............14.88 .... ...15
3”.............16.09.......16............14.92 .... ...15
4”.............16.33.......16 3/8......15.03.......15
4.5”..........16.47.......16 ½........15.11.......15
5”.............16.62.......16 5/8......15.21.......15 ¼
6”.............16.97.......17............15.44 .... ...15 ½
7”.............17.36.......17 3/8......15.74.......15 ¾
8”.............17.81.......17 ¾........16.09.......16
9”.............18.30.......18 ¼........16.50.......16 ½
10”...........18.82.......18 ¾........16.96.......17
Credit to tonysinnette for the chart on a different thread of mine.
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
I forget what measurements I was running without drop brackets. I am running 17.5" lower and 15.5" upper with 7" right now. Previously I was running 17" lower and 15.5" upper. I am constantly fussing with different lengths.
You can get it back together without the drop brackets. And what I meant by the shock mount hitting is that the top of the control arm might hit the bottom of the shock mount. You know the part of the shock mount that extends above the control arm mount? But if it isn't hitting that isn't your problem. You are going to have to get creative with that come along and/or ratchet straps. Does the axle need to be pulled back or forwards? If it needs to be pulled back use the come along attached to a hole in the unibody or the rear axle. If it needs to go foward use your front crossmember or tow hooks if you have them.
You can get it back together without the drop brackets. And what I meant by the shock mount hitting is that the top of the control arm might hit the bottom of the shock mount. You know the part of the shock mount that extends above the control arm mount? But if it isn't hitting that isn't your problem. You are going to have to get creative with that come along and/or ratchet straps. Does the axle need to be pulled back or forwards? If it needs to be pulled back use the come along attached to a hole in the unibody or the rear axle. If it needs to go foward use your front crossmember or tow hooks if you have them.
I just went out and looked at it. The top of the control arm is actually hitting the shock mount on the passenger side (opposite side of the current problem). It is bottoming out and not allowing me to lower the axle any more on that side. I would rather not have to trim that though. I need to move the axle forward about half an inch. The only thing I could really attach the come-along to would be the front bumper...
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
It is not hard to trim and does not affect the structural integrity at all. There is the part of the "mount" that curves down.....which is hitting your control arm...
If you cut maybe a half inch up you will see that there is a top and bottom piece that are sandwiched together. Not much cutting at all. Really easy if you have a 3" air cutoff or an electic 4.5" grinder. If you have neither I don't know what to tell you.
I think the come along is too big/long to work in the area you need to. You don't have any quality ratchet straps?
If you cut maybe a half inch up you will see that there is a top and bottom piece that are sandwiched together. Not much cutting at all. Really easy if you have a 3" air cutoff or an electic 4.5" grinder. If you have neither I don't know what to tell you.
I think the come along is too big/long to work in the area you need to. You don't have any quality ratchet straps?
No i don't have many tools actually (standard ratchet/socket set). I use all my bros who lives next door or my dads. I'm gonna try the tire idea tomorrow in the a.m. and hopefully it will work. If not I might just have to cut more of the jeep. I will post tomorrow and let you know how it comes along. Thanks for all the advice and help.
MrSimon
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Downingtown, PA
I've done this twice now and have run into both of the problems you are talking about.
I decided to trim the spring plates (shock mounts) to allow for more travel. I'm sure glad I did.
And to move the axle forward, I use a bottle jack wedged between the frame rail and the spring plate. It works perfectly and pushes the axle right into place.
I decided to trim the spring plates (shock mounts) to allow for more travel. I'm sure glad I did.
And to move the axle forward, I use a bottle jack wedged between the frame rail and the spring plate. It works perfectly and pushes the axle right into place.
dinorl007
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- dublin, va
when we installed the lift on my brothers xj we had the same problem, we did what ahs been suggested by moving the axle forward, all we had was a long come along so we hooked a chain to the axle and used the lawn mower to pull it forward while he pushed the bot trough, when we did mine we put it on the ground and just rolled the tire until it lined up good luck
