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renix
- Thread starter poomero
- Start date
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Congratulations, you have a Renix (Renault-Bendix).
Pre-Chrysler acquisition of Jeep the French were involved in operations, that is why you can find Peugeot BA10/5 transmissions and the Renault-Bendix designed electronics.
Anyway, I too have been blessed with a Renix and love it.
Pre-Chrysler acquisition of Jeep the French were involved in operations, that is why you can find Peugeot BA10/5 transmissions and the Renault-Bendix designed electronics.
Anyway, I too have been blessed with a Renix and love it.
1985xjlaredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
87-90 inline 6 XJ's are "Renix" Jeeps
Welcome to the wonderful world of Jeepin!
Welcome to the wonderful world of Jeepin!
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
With Renix mostly just referring to using the Renix engine computer vice the later Chrysler engine computer.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Mechanically, all of the 242ci engines are close to the same (there are some differences - the cylinder head was revised a few times, and the main cap brace was added for 1996.)
The first generation, as mentioned, is "RENIX" - and that's what you've got. The system was spec'd by Renault and built by Bendix/King. It's actually quite robust, adaptable - and best of all - pre-OBD. I've never been a huge fan of OBD-I (principally because there was never a real standard for it. OBD-II makes more sense.)
RENIX is actually fairly easy to troubleshoot as well - all you need is decent skill with a multimeter and a useful manual. You can find the RENIX FI manual in the Tech section at Pirates of the Rubicon, and I've kicked open a head-shed for RENIX-specific discussion (groups.yahoo.com/group/RENIXPower.) I think the RENIX FI manual got upped there as well, I don't recall (and I know I didn't put it up there.) Just make sure you say something more than "I want to join up" if you decide to sign up there - or at least let us know it's you (we've been fighting SPAMbots of late.)
The RENIX system was used on both the AMC 150ci/2.46L I4 and on the 242ci/4.0L I6. There is a good deal of parts commonality as well, save the ECU. Most of the electronics and sensors are GM/Delco units, which saves you trouble in finding them and saves you a few bucks on most of them should you need replacements.
Your 1990, if an automatic, will have the AW4 (a Toyota design) four-speed automatic and 3.55 gearing, which complements the transmission ratios well. If it's the five-speed manual, you'll have the AX-15 with 3.07 gearing - the AX-15 is a decent box (way much better than that wretched Peugeot - I went through four of them in my 88!) but the 3.07 gearing is all wrong. If you stop using fifth gear and cruise around 2500-2800rpm, you'll note an increase in fuel economy.
Which transfer case? If you have a "4HI Full-Time" option, you have the NP242. If not, you have the NP231 (and you'll have a vacuum disconnect Dana 30 up front. The rear will be a Dana 35 - the C8.25" didn't start showing up until 1991, and the D44 quit being installed in early 1988.) The NP242 was found in the Limited edition and some high-end Laredos (the ones with "Power Everything" - sort of an "economy Limited.") To my recall, the NP242 did not come from the factory behind the manual transmission, just the automatic.
Your alternator is a Delco CS-130. Therefore, the Durango/ZJ/WJ upgrade will not work for you - but that's really OK, because you can score upwound Delco units fairly cheaply anyhow (and I prefer the Delco to the ND. The Delco has been more reliable, in my experience.)
Monitor the condition of the ground strap between the cylinder head and the firewall - not for nothing is it called "The RENIX Killer." It provides the main ground path for the chassis (to the battery,) and therefore continues the ground plane between the sensors and the ECU - which is mounted just above and forward of your right knee as you sit in the driver's seat. Adding a secondary chassis ground from the battery negative terminal to the fender liner will now go amiss, and often solves quite a few headaches before they start. Use min. 4AWG wire for that one (I know, the OEM mains are 6AWG. You'll want to replace them sooner or later anyhow. I can help you with that - hit me backchannel...)
All in all, I prefer the RENIX over any OBD, and OBD-II (1996-2001) over OBD-I. Then again, I cut my teeth on 50's and 60's Corvettes & 60's and 70's Camaros, so I'm used to doing my own thinking.
You can find FSMs on eBay with a little looking, and there are a couple of outfits out there that do reprints. NB: Any FSM 1987-1990 should work for your 1990, but note that ChryCo did change the colouring on some wiring mid-1988. Apart from that, everything applies - just note the change if you happen to score an "early" Chrysler FSM or actually manage to nail down the (huge!) AMC FSM.
Any questions? As you can probably tell, I've been at this for a while (and I've probably caught most of the questions that get asked about RENIX...)
The first generation, as mentioned, is "RENIX" - and that's what you've got. The system was spec'd by Renault and built by Bendix/King. It's actually quite robust, adaptable - and best of all - pre-OBD. I've never been a huge fan of OBD-I (principally because there was never a real standard for it. OBD-II makes more sense.)
RENIX is actually fairly easy to troubleshoot as well - all you need is decent skill with a multimeter and a useful manual. You can find the RENIX FI manual in the Tech section at Pirates of the Rubicon, and I've kicked open a head-shed for RENIX-specific discussion (groups.yahoo.com/group/RENIXPower.) I think the RENIX FI manual got upped there as well, I don't recall (and I know I didn't put it up there.) Just make sure you say something more than "I want to join up" if you decide to sign up there - or at least let us know it's you (we've been fighting SPAMbots of late.)
The RENIX system was used on both the AMC 150ci/2.46L I4 and on the 242ci/4.0L I6. There is a good deal of parts commonality as well, save the ECU. Most of the electronics and sensors are GM/Delco units, which saves you trouble in finding them and saves you a few bucks on most of them should you need replacements.
Your 1990, if an automatic, will have the AW4 (a Toyota design) four-speed automatic and 3.55 gearing, which complements the transmission ratios well. If it's the five-speed manual, you'll have the AX-15 with 3.07 gearing - the AX-15 is a decent box (way much better than that wretched Peugeot - I went through four of them in my 88!) but the 3.07 gearing is all wrong. If you stop using fifth gear and cruise around 2500-2800rpm, you'll note an increase in fuel economy.
Which transfer case? If you have a "4HI Full-Time" option, you have the NP242. If not, you have the NP231 (and you'll have a vacuum disconnect Dana 30 up front. The rear will be a Dana 35 - the C8.25" didn't start showing up until 1991, and the D44 quit being installed in early 1988.) The NP242 was found in the Limited edition and some high-end Laredos (the ones with "Power Everything" - sort of an "economy Limited.") To my recall, the NP242 did not come from the factory behind the manual transmission, just the automatic.
Your alternator is a Delco CS-130. Therefore, the Durango/ZJ/WJ upgrade will not work for you - but that's really OK, because you can score upwound Delco units fairly cheaply anyhow (and I prefer the Delco to the ND. The Delco has been more reliable, in my experience.)
Monitor the condition of the ground strap between the cylinder head and the firewall - not for nothing is it called "The RENIX Killer." It provides the main ground path for the chassis (to the battery,) and therefore continues the ground plane between the sensors and the ECU - which is mounted just above and forward of your right knee as you sit in the driver's seat. Adding a secondary chassis ground from the battery negative terminal to the fender liner will now go amiss, and often solves quite a few headaches before they start. Use min. 4AWG wire for that one (I know, the OEM mains are 6AWG. You'll want to replace them sooner or later anyhow. I can help you with that - hit me backchannel...)
All in all, I prefer the RENIX over any OBD, and OBD-II (1996-2001) over OBD-I. Then again, I cut my teeth on 50's and 60's Corvettes & 60's and 70's Camaros, so I'm used to doing my own thinking.
You can find FSMs on eBay with a little looking, and there are a couple of outfits out there that do reprints. NB: Any FSM 1987-1990 should work for your 1990, but note that ChryCo did change the colouring on some wiring mid-1988. Apart from that, everything applies - just note the change if you happen to score an "early" Chrysler FSM or actually manage to nail down the (huge!) AMC FSM.
Any questions? As you can probably tell, I've been at this for a while (and I've probably caught most of the questions that get asked about RENIX...)
One more thing - You can't read codes off Renix. That's actually a big help. It mean's you get to learn and understand the traditional logic trees with no crank, no start, no run conditions, etc. And you don't get stupid CEL's that code as "emission pressure leak," which translates to "Tighten the gas cap."
Most of my customers buy parts unnecessarily - because a code popped up. The #1 falsehood is that OBD says it's broke, which is the furthest thing from the truth. What an OBD code says is "The volt reading isn't what I'm programmed to accept, so I'm throwing a red flag."
I'm not yelling - but this is important: UNTIL YOU CHECK THE PART WITH A VOLTMETER, YOU DON'T REALLY KNOW IT'S BAD. You're just throwing parts at it.
Shop for a nice inexpensive volt ohm meter as your first tool and play with it. It will pay for itself the first part you check and find it works ok and doesn't need replacement. Like as not the ground path or connection was corroded and messed up the continuity of electrical flow.
Enjoy your Renix, you will find answers to your questions here already. It's my firstline source of information.
Most of my customers buy parts unnecessarily - because a code popped up. The #1 falsehood is that OBD says it's broke, which is the furthest thing from the truth. What an OBD code says is "The volt reading isn't what I'm programmed to accept, so I'm throwing a red flag."
I'm not yelling - but this is important: UNTIL YOU CHECK THE PART WITH A VOLTMETER, YOU DON'T REALLY KNOW IT'S BAD. You're just throwing parts at it.
Shop for a nice inexpensive volt ohm meter as your first tool and play with it. It will pay for itself the first part you check and find it works ok and doesn't need replacement. Like as not the ground path or connection was corroded and messed up the continuity of electrical flow.
Enjoy your Renix, you will find answers to your questions here already. It's my firstline source of information.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Oh, the C8.25" came out before 1990 - just didn't make a showing until 1991 in the XJ or MJ.
ABS was around before - the XJ used a Bendix system starting sometime in 1988-1989. I think it was Teves under ChryCo - but only with the D35.
And, the early ABS was a mistake (according to popular opinion,) and you can find plenty of threads on how to strip it out.
gee::dunce::wowElCaMinault
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Yellowknife, NWT, CAN
Thx 5-90 for all the info. I just bought my first jeep, a 90' limited with 225km for 500$ and it came with 3/4 tank of fuel!
Ive got a 88 xj renix with 260,000 on it and its run like a top since Ive owned it (new) untill the last 400-600 miles. I think its just getting tired but Im wondering if there is anyway to "check/inspect" the various sensors to see if they...after +20 years are still operating in spec.
I would think that there is info what the various sensors should "read" (with a multimeter). if so does anyone have a list on what these sensors should "read"?
Yeah I know its a slow day and I thought I'ld TLC my XJ some as the wife while cleaning the house told me to get out of the house and "do something".......got to love that girl!
I would think that there is info what the various sensors should "read" (with a multimeter). if so does anyone have a list on what these sensors should "read"?
Yeah I know its a slow day and I thought I'ld TLC my XJ some as the wife while cleaning the house told me to get out of the house and "do something".......got to love that girl!
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Go to Pirates of the Rubicon, you can find the RENIX FI manual there. You can test the sensors using a common multimeter.
However, at ~20yo, you're going to want to start replacing them. Most of them - save the TPS and the HEGO - are standard GM parts of the vintage, and will be easy to find (you can get most of them from Marren Fuel Injection - www.injector.com - for a reasonable cost.)
colby44
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Washington
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm
very useful someone posted it elsewhere thought i would share
very useful someone posted it elsewhere thought i would share
