Effects of Towing on Suspension Kits

So who here tows anything? How big is that something? I've finally got some cash to throw into the jeep now that my bonus came in but I am pretty picky (like Monk picky). I've been searching for effects and handling of different suspension systems. I've got it nailed down to about 4 different setups but am buggin' about long term effects and immediate handling effects of these kits. The normal kits as usual DPG, RE, RC, and Rusty's are what I'm looking into. Any first hand info will help.

I have a hybrid kit on my big XJ. RE 7.5 coils front, t&t long arms, rusty’s 6.5 rear leafs JKS shackles, and RockKrawler shocks. My little XJ has rusty’s 4.5" coils, bastard pack rear, 1 ton over load spring that only contacts the leafs when the trailers weight is on the rig, and gas shock all around that were set up taking into account the load of the trailer (I built this jeep to pull this trailer so I could still work when I brake the other XJ). I tow a mid size trailer (Good 500 lbs+ tongue weight). I probably drive an average of 55 miles a day w/ the trailer for work. As long as the sway bars are hooked up they both tow like champs. I feel safe going 70 mph on the freeway with the trailer (not that I do, other than passing) Youll definitely want the bigger brake booster for added stopping power, junk yard disc brake will do wonders for you too. Make sure your geared right for your tires size too.
I have not had any problems with sagging or anything like that either. Other then lack of stopping power on stock brakes never had any other kind of problem. My jeeps handle just fine w/ a trailer behind them.

Hey there,

I have pulled a few things with my XJ. I have a 94 with a RE 4.5" lift, and 32" tires. It does just fine pulling my 19' flat bottom duck boat around town and stuff. When i moved to go to school and rented a small U-haul trailer, and filled it up. I drove about 400 miles to my school, including through the mountains in western PA. It did better the I thought it would. The only concern I had was with the stopping, like mentioned before, But still not Unbearabl.



Luck to ya :rof:

Andy

I was under the impression the RE springs were pretty bouncy already. Do you have a heavy duty set or adjustable shocks to control the sag and bounce.

I honestly havn't towed anything yet, but I'll have a 18ft enclosed car trailer hanging off the back of mine here soon. With the XJ's small wheelbase and curb weight, a weight distributing hitch will do wonders for safety and handling.

I'm running OME's 2" HD leafs which have an overload leaf. They are much beefier than a stock pack. I plan on doing a lot of towing with my rig, and with 33's I NEED better brakes. I have plans to build a custom 12"/wilwood 4 piston front setup along with an adpated 11" GM rear. I hate having to use both feet to slow down (so to speak).

I definetly don't reccomend going too high. I'm around 4" and do not plan on going higher due to stability. Of the 4 you mentioned, RE would be the safest bet for what your looking for. Just keep in mind that your going to need more than the lift if your looking to do frequent towing.

Yah, definitely aware of the downward spiral effect. I've got spreadsheets full of everything in many different setups but just need the advice of those already using different setups. That ome setup you have is pretty nice. How much shackle is involved with that setup.

before doing a lift, think of the safety aspects first. i would have brakes at the top of the list of things to do even with the late model dual diaphragm booster, there is more to be desired. rear disk brakes and correct prop valve are a great start. what year is your rig? pre 95 rigs can really benefit from a 95+ booster/m. cylinder upgrade.

after brakes, think about your trans. if an automatic you MUST have a good trans cooler. although the AW4 is a tough sob, it still needs a cooler. the stock one that goes to the radiator has no benefit on cooling. the stock cooler that sits in front of the rad/condenser is not very good either. you need way more cooling power for towing especially with a heavier load and/or hills. i am running a 12x14" cooler mounted below the rad and within the taurus fan shroud. i have a B&M trans temp gauge going in later this week into an a pillar gage pod.

and finally the lift. i am running cRustys 4.5" springs on all 4 corners and MJ shackles in the rear. i tow a pop-up tent trailer with my heep on occasions and i have found those springs to be too soft for my liking. there is noticeable squat when the trailer is hooked up. it doesnt seem to effect the rigs performance, but it does mess with the headlight aiming. i get flashed when ever i am towing at night. i have to get in the habit of re-aiming my headlights after hooking up the trailer. the rustys springs are good for normal driving and provide a good comfortable ride, but they are not the best for towing. i would go with something a little stiffer like rough country or RE. i think i am going to look into something to help firm those leaves up a little (too many other priorities on the list right now to buy new leaf springs). be sure to have your front sway bar connected. you may want to look into fabing up some disconnects for your rear sway bar so that you have the articulation on the trail and a more stable rig for the trailer. a key part of suspension that is all to often neglected is tires- yes, they are part of the suspension as they are the first part of the vehicle to absorb forces from the road). check the inflation frequently and adjust as necessary on both the rig and trailer.

an xj is not the best choice for towing, but many of us dont have a dedicated tow rig able to tow both the jeep and whatever trailer the heep was gonna tow so we do what we can.

It's a 96 Classic so it's got the bigger booster already and I already put in a new radiator and trans cooler. It actually runs pretty cool for a jeep. I used to tow my two jet skis just fine a couple of years ago with the old sorry stock suspension but sitting for a year really put the hurt on them for some reason. I need new control arm bushings all new tie rod ends among other things. Don't worry it's getting the full treatment. I've been around Jeeps over 15 years now and know just how spoiled they are. I just want a suspension that doesnt like like a POS like you see some fullsize lifted trucks with their front tires dang near lifting off the ground. Doesn't Rusty's have a heavier spring rate spring that may help out some, or is that just in the front.

Only thing I've towed is a wave runner and it wasn't very far, but the Jeep handled it with no problems. I've got an RE 4.5" SF lift and 32's, but I'm sure the 4.56's helped, as well as the trans cooler. As far as the rear suspension, its got RE 3.5" leafs and a 1" lift shackle. I don't even think the rear end sagged at all with the trailer attached. Tongue weight isn't that heavy though, I can pick up the front of the trailer and move it around easily.

XJ 4-play said:

Doesn't Rusty's have a heavier spring rate spring that may help out some, or is that just in the front.

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cRustys is know for having extremely soft spring rates. it offers a better ride in the xj with little to no gear and no trailer. i like the ride of the jeep (long arms and crustys leaves make it really nice), util the rear end squats with the trailer.

How high are you planning on going? Gears, tires? I towed a rather large, heavy trailer behind my XJ on RE springs, but with only dinky little 30s a short distance. It moved it fairly well, stopped ok. When I moved I also loaded up a trailer, about the equivalent in size of a UHaul trailer and packed as much of my stuff as I could in it. That time I towed it about 30 miles. It handled it fine. That was still with the same RE springs and small tires. I kept an eye on the temp gauge and planned ahead for stopping. I did have to make a short stop for a light that was right in that go/no go zone and it stopped pretty well. I ended up just over the stop line into the crosswalk. I have slotted rotors on mine. Probably don't make a huge difference though.

I guess to get back to the main question I must rephrase. What brand of rear springs do you have and how do they handle with a load of any size. How have springs you have or have had hold up.

It sounds like RE fans have had good luck with various towing sizes. It's funny how you hear so many different views of who's springs are too stiff and whose are too bouncy etc. Even researching spring rates changes weekly around here. It's difficult deciding when everything is so convoluted.

My rear Rustys 6.5" springs tow fine. No too soft or too stiff, they do squat a little w/ the weight of the trialer, but they are backed up with some pritty firm shocks.
My bastard back rear tows like a dream, but I built the back for towing specifically, its backed up with a pair of cheapo carquest gas shocks. It only squats untill the main leaf pack contacts the 1 ton over load. It rides like a stock XJ when the trailer is on it, little stiff on the street w/o the trailer.

Basically anything you get will probably tow fine, if not you can alway get a set of air shocks. Really how often are you going to be towing something vs. not? Is it really that important?

not specifically to the jeep but i tow my jeep with my Blazer S-10 and it do just fine (on 16ft car trailer with wood flooring)

what i find VERY benefit i did the the Blazer that i done is
-electric brake controller
-Add-A-Leaf (LONG one is the best)
-air shock (mines' from Monroe, and they're actually have much more extended length than stock, so i benefits it too as i off road my blazer too)

as the jeep's (XJ to be specific) is about 1 ton lighter than my blazer, (jeep's about 3000 dry, while my blazer weights at 5000lbs) id say strongly suggest weight distubating hitch to help out LOT

I tow my 3000# pop-up all over the country on 8 yr old RE 1462's(4.5").It sags a little when towing,but I like a fair amount of tongue weight.There hasnt been any permanent sag in the springs though.

IMHO air bags beat air shocks. The shock mounts aren't designed to carry the weight. Also, shocks wear out and need to be replaced sometimes.