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Hitch install

P

pajeepman

NAXJA Forum User
Location
East Norriton, PA
I picked up a used putnam hitch for my 2000 XJ(doesn't appear to have ever been used, just installed). The instructions say to use bolts/washers/lock nuts/nuts on the drivers side. 4 per side. Would you get a nut plate for the drivers side or just use the hardware that putnam supplys. I figure if the manufacture is saying do it that way, it must be strong enough and there is no need for the nut plate or they would include a nut plate kinda thing to prevent any law suits. I don't plan on doing any heavy towing as the trailer I have is rated for 3500lbs. I have access to diesel trucks if i have to do any heavy towing. I also don't see myself getting it buried off-road where I would have to have somebody do major pulling/winch to get me out. I may wirig up the jeep for a multi-mount winch(xd8000i) though.
What do you think?
 
I consider the nut strips an "ease" factor.

For mine I used the carriage bolts with the rectangular reinforcements.
 
I appreciate the offer, my Jeep has one from the factory for the exhauast. Thanks anyway. I just need one for the drivers side.
 
I ended up building my own nut plate's. Not that difficult if you got the right tools. besides, you can still use lock washers with the nut plate. The previous hitch that was on my XJ when I got it was held in place with carriage bolts and the square piece. Was a pain in the ass to get it off. The nut strips are all around a whole lot easier. As far as supplying a nut plate unless the hitch only works on one specific vehicle it would be too much a hastle to supply a nut plate with.
 
I have the stuff to build my own ,except for the space, my plasma cutter and mig aren't even at my house because I don't have the space to work on stuff at home. I figure I would just spend the $25 on the plate, even though I'm not loaded with $$$$(far from it)
 
Squidmonkey said:
I ended up building my own nut plate's. Not that difficult if you got the right tools. besides, you can still use lock washers with the nut plate. The previous hitch that was on my XJ when I got it was held in place with carriage bolts and the square piece. Was a pain in the ass to get it off. The nut strips are all around a whole lot easier. As far as supplying a nut plate unless the hitch only works on one specific vehicle it would be too much a hastle to supply a nut plate with.
Click to expand...

Not to be argumentative, but I have found the nutstrips, when rusted, to be the PITA to deal with, and that is just my humble opinion.
 
I used the nut strip on the passenger side that was in there (after using a 12mm tap to clean the rusted threads up). On the driver's side I used the carriage bolts and steel reinforcement pieces supplied by Hidden Hitch. I had thought about either buying or making a nut strip, but decided that removing the rear bumper was going to be a hassle. The carriage bolt method can be done without removing the bumper.
 
My hitch came with bolts fished through the frame instead of the nut strips, and it was a complete PITA to remove. Trying to install a hitch and skid without the nut strips was completely impossible. Though I don't think the nut strip method is superior (structurally) to just fishing bolts or nuts down the frame, it certainly is a hell of a lot easier.
 
I had to cut several bolts to get my nut strip out.. in order to install my hitch.. I used standard grade 8 bolts. The problem with the nut strips is that the threads are up inside of the unibody.. where.. if exposed to moisture will rust and corrode, and you have no idea because you can't see in there with the bumper on.
 
joe_peters said:
Not to be argumentative, but I have found the nutstrips, when rusted, to be the PITA to deal with, and that is just my humble opinion.
Click to expand...

I can completely agree, anything rusted is a pain in the ass. I figure if a nut breaks off the strip though, then It's just like i dont have the nut strip on there anyways and still have to deal with it like I would If I never put the strip in there. So for now, with it it's just a little easier. that is, if I remember to take the hitch off and clean it up and pull the nut strips out and clean prime/paint them as well. I was in a hurry to get it completed so I had a recovery point for rausch creek.

by the by, I like how you clearly stated you where not trying to be argumentative, had one to many people be snappy assholes I would assume? Peace to ya.
 
mnoeltne said:
I used the nut strip on the passenger side that was in there (after using a 12mm tap to clean the rusted threads up). On the driver's side I used the carriage bolts and steel reinforcement pieces supplied by Hidden Hitch. I had thought about either buying or making a nut strip, but decided that removing the rear bumper was going to be a hassle. The carriage bolt method can be done without removing the bumper.
Click to expand...
Im curious to know how, i found it impossible to get inside the frame rail with the bumper still attached. Perhaps i missed it, but if you can do this without removing the bumper, please elaborate because i would like to know. that really would make things easier, them bumper bolts suck ass.
 
joe_peters said:
I consider the nut strips an "ease" factor.

For mine I used the carriage bolts with the rectangular reinforcements.
Click to expand...

Unless you can find grade 8 carriage bolts, I'd recommend another solution. I've never seen grade 8 carriage bolts at a local hardware store, but they do exist. It appears that hidden hitch may come with these types of bolts, so perhaps they use grade 8. I know that you are dealing with multiple bolts that help distribute the load, but I'd stick with grade 8 over grade 5. Most carriage bolts are grade 5.
 
Markos said:
Unless you can find grade 8 carriage bolts, I'd recommend another solution. I've never seen grade 8 carriage bolts at a local hardware store, but they do exist. It appears that hidden hitch may come with these types of bolts, so perhaps they use grade 8. I know that you are dealing with multiple bolts that help distribute the load, but I'd stick with grade 8 over grade 5. Most carriage bolts are grade 5.
Click to expand...

I believe most manufacturers provide grade 5 or, if metric, 8.8 hardware. Same thing with the winch manufacturers. In both types of installations it is the surface contact of the hitch and frame, and the correct torque of the hardware that provides the strength. I would definitely follow the manufacturers recommendation.
 
Squidmonkey said:
Im curious to know how, i found it impossible to get inside the frame rail with the bumper still attached. Perhaps i missed it, but if you can do this without removing the bumper, please elaborate because i would like to know. that really would make things easier, them bumper bolts suck ass.
Click to expand...

I believe you can do it with the bumper still on (not hardy worth it) by fishing the carriage bolt, and locking plate through the hole on a piece of wire. I did it that way on my camaro.. my isuzu rodeo.. and my wife escape..

There is a video here:

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-fish_wire.aspx
 
joe_peters said:
I believe most manufacturers provide grade 5 or, if metric, 8.8 hardware. Same thing with the winch manufacturers. In both types of installations it is the surface contact of the hitch and frame, and the correct torque of the hardware that provides the strength. I would definitely follow the manufacturers recommendation.
Click to expand...

Well I wouldn't use grade 5 bolts on a winch mount either, but that's me...
 
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