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Manual Transmission Fluid

REX J

REX J

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Humboldt, CA
Went to check the fluid in my transmission today for the first time and i figured that when removing the fill plug that I could just stick my finger in there and see the level, but once I got that plug out this thick goopy greenish yellow fluid started oozing out and I had to get the plug back in to keep it from draining out. Shouldn't that fluid have been level to the fill plug? Also, what's the deal with this fluid? I've done fluid changes on all my cars and never seen fluid that looked that thick and almost frothy before. It didn't really smell burnt, but did smell a little off. Any ideas?
 
Greenish/yellow?

BTW--what manual transmission?

If AX15 you need GL3, not GL4 or GL5 as they attack the yellow metal synchros. You can go to dealer and buy special new Mopar manual trans fluid (10w30 motor oil) or you can use 10w30 motor oil. You can also get Amsoil and Red Line products. My personal choice was Mobil-1 10w30.

If you don't have an AX15 you should find out the correct lubricant and change yours. Greenish yellow? Ouch.
 
For best results with the ax15 manual tranny redline mtl is highly recommended for best results.
 
It probably was filled on a slope, or was just dripping down from the walls of the transmission after being thrown around. My rear diff was filled facing uphill, so naturally when I was parked the other was and checked it, it came sloshing out all over.
 
i would use syncromesh fluid
31K8EH83WEL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
 
Erik Litchy said:
i would use syncromesh fluid
31K8EH83WEL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
Click to expand...

"A post on the message board at www.oilanalysis.com found Synchromesh to consist of a 5W30 non-detergent oil with a friction modifer and an EP (extreme pressure) additive. It is made under contract for General Motors by Pennzoil (APC 3378) or by Texaco (Code 1874 MTX Fluid). "
 
joe_peters said:
"A post on the message board at www.oilanalysis.com found Synchromesh to consist of a 5W30 non-detergent oil with a friction modifer and an EP (extreme pressure) additive. It is made under contract for General Motors by Pennzoil (APC 3378) or by Texaco (Code 1874 MTX Fluid). "
Click to expand...

is that bad? i tried to search Synchromesh on that site and got no match found, can you post a direct link. unless it was right in front of me i didnt see it.
 
Id use Redline MTL-90.

and if you pulled the plug when your jeep was still warm it will pour out like that.
 
89xj said:
is that bad? i tried to search Synchromesh on that site and got no match found, can you post a direct link. unless it was right in front of me i didnt see it.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I put it in quotes because it is a reference I found it when searching for the synchromesh info. Here is the link: http://www.stealth316.com/2-pennzoil-synchromesh.htm

What I found interesting was its compatibility with the yellow metals, a very good thing.

No, not a bad thing. The original link hasn't been updated since 2004, so the message board reference might not be there anymore.
 
Last edited:
joe_peters said:
Sorry, I put it in quotes because it is a reference I found it when searching for the synchromesh info. Here is the link: http://www.stealth316.com/2-pennzoil-synchromesh.htm

What I found interesting was its compatibility with the yellow metals, a very good thing.
Click to expand...


when at the parts store i read that it was compatable with yellow metals but was skeptical about using it without further research. i drained the trans on mine a few days ago but have failed to refill. i decide to try mobil 1 10w30
 
89xj said:
when at the parts store i read that it was compatable with yellow metals but was skeptical about using it without further research. i drained the trans on mine a few days ago but have failed to refill. i decide to try mobil 1 10w30
Click to expand...

That is what I've been using since late last year, the Mobil-1 10w30. I sure prefer how it shifts now. Much better than the GL3, especially when its cold.
 
Motor oil in an AX-15? I dont think id do that.

Everything i have seen calls for 75w-90 GL3. Id stick to that or something every similar.
 
swbooking said:
Motor oil in an AX-15? I dont think id do that.

Everything i have seen calls for 75w-90 GL3. Id stick to that or something every similar.
Click to expand...

Try and find it. The GL4 and GL5 are not compatible. GL3 is going away.
 
swbooking said:
Motor oil in an AX-15? I dont think id do that.

Everything i have seen calls for 75w-90 GL3. Id stick to that or something every similar.
Click to expand...

motor oil is very similar to a gl-3 but much different than gl-5. its the shear properties and lower heat applications that seperate the gl-5 from motor oil.

gl-3 is hard to find and if found its very expensive.

gl-4 for a trans with yellow metals seems to be more of a hybrid gl-3. IIRC, redline and synchromesh are gl-4s but with additives for use with yellow metals, could be wrong though
 
Thats why i added or something every similar...

I wouldnt run 10W-30. Ill stick to Redline MTL-90. Seems to be working just fine.
 
swbooking said:
Thats why i added or something every similar...
Click to expand...

and synthetic motor oil is similar to gl-3, thats why many have switched to it without out problem.

it fine if you dont want to use it, but it can be used without causing problems.

just like some transfercases run on atf and some use motor oil.
 
I use MT90 in mine and it was a night and day difference from the stuff the last guy had in there. GL4 will not attack yellow metals, GL5 will and i'm not sure about GL6.

edit: If you don't want to spend the money on the good stuff then you can use either a straight 30w or a 10w30. Its what the dealerships use instead of the GL5 that the FSM recommends.
 
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