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adding zerk to D30 u/j?!?

mikeny59

NAXJA Member #300
Location
NY and/or Fl.
After I finish rebuilding front d/s, on to the d30 u-joints and bearings.

Was gazing at old ones still installed in axle and the new Spicers on my bench, got me to thinkin' - why not drill and tap a zerk? Yeah, it'll probably weaken it a tad, but I dont do any hard core 'wheelin, just goin' nuts in the snow.

Can it physically be done? If it can, will the old grease being forced out destroy the seals, or are seals the same on both greaseable/nongreasable u-joints?

I guess I'm always trying to improve a given part/system/situation.

Thanks,
 
XgeekstarX said:
they don't have grease paths like a greasable joint, so if you put a grease zerk in it then there is nowhere for the grease to go.
Ditto.

If you want a greasable joint, you'll need to replace it with a greasable one.
 
Most all universals can be obtained as greasable or non greasable. My sugestion would be to run what you have installed then as you replace them get greasable units.
 
They're the upgraded Spicers', 760/297, which ever is the hd.

I started a thread not too long ago about regreasing w/synthetic, I believe I saw on another site (Stu's maybe?!?) that someone just pulled the caps off prior to assembly and purged out the "X" w/synthetic, which means the center is hollow.

Isn't that the only path the grease can follow? Wouldn't adding a zerk at the center of the X just force the grease outwards via seals?

I went w/Spicers' for the quality, I don't think they make a greasable d30 uj, then again, I have minimally experience w/uj's, other than installing my first three last nite in my front ds.

Thanks,
 
Spicer does make a greasable wheel joint - I've bought and installed several. Just make sure to ask for them at the counter, and physically open the box to check before you pay for them (not only to make sure the parts droid got the right box, but I've also run across a couple with the zerk provided for, but missing...)

In fact, anytime you get something with some small parts involved and the box isn't sealed (like U-joints!) open the box and check before you pay for it. A good counterman will open the box in front of you and you'll both check (he'll also know what's supposed to be in there!) - that's a keeper.

5-90
 
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