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Balljoint Installation Problem

Yucca-Man

Yucca-Man

NAXJA Member # 683
Location
Castle Rock, CO
Arrrrggghhh...... *&%&^$%$$#!!!!

For some reason, I cannot get the upper balljoint to line up correctly when I begin to press it in. The balljoint was in the freezer to shrink it a bit, but it starts to tip in (toward the engine) when I start to press it. Once it does that, I can't get it straightened up and it won't press in either.

I did it with my other frozen upper ball joint as well, and still the same problem. The bottom joint went in just fine, but this upper is a pain in the buttocks...any ideas? :dunno:

I'm sooooo looking forward to doing the other side if it's going to be this much of a PITA.
 
OY!!!!
Put the top in before you put the bottom in. Just like you, I'm half way through it.

Break is over, back to the grease mine! LOL
 
Scheiße ... I was positive it was bottom-first!

So pop the bottom one out, and invert the clamp so the screw is through the lower hole? Dammittall...sure would be nice if I didn't have an HOA-happy neighborhood.
 
When I pressed mines in I used an adaptor set that had a cup that was slanted to account for the knuckle surface being angled. The clamp (ball joint press) never went thru any holes, I had the thread part point up top of the wheelwell. I had to turn it with an open end wrench, but it worked.
 
Dont recall which one I did first,but definately had to make some slanted/shaped sleeves to square up the tool to the rounded flange.
 
Well, we'll see how it turns out tomorrow after work. At least I get a couple hours between 2 and dark. Can't work too late with all the HOA Nazis around; they already frown because I change my own oil. Ignant bastiges...
 
SuperRA has it right, screw to the top. Since I have one of the A-Z loaner presses, I'm not about to modify.

I did the driver-side on Wednsday, I think I used a collar on the joint and ran the stud through the hole at the end of the clamp-just to get started. What ever I used I referenced to the bottom side of the knuckle, added more pieces after the joint was started. Oh yeah, cleaned, lubed and generous with the anti-seize, I didn't have to use heating or freezing.

I'll try to get the passenger side in early, the press has to go back and I need a U-joint for that axle. :doh:

BTW, what kind of pup is that?
 
sounds to me like you need to look at your adaptors. top goes in first and it needs to have and adaptor that is angled so it applys the right pressure at the right angle otherwise it will go cockeyed and this is the problem. it goes on easier if you use a little never seize on the joints as well
 
5-90 said:
I did bend holy old Hell out of a HF press with the first try (bent the "flying end" out about 1/2"!)

Of course, now that I've got a batch of spare sleeves, I'll see about doing a little "field modification" and letting everyone know how it works out.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's exactly my experience. I now use my modded sleeves with the AutoZone rental press.
 
Yucca-Man said:
Can't work too late with all the HOA Nazis around; they already frown because I change my own oil. Ignant bastiges...
Click to expand...

Man that's funny. I thought I was the only one with Nazi HOA people.
I try to do fluid changes during the weekday when most are at work. I have new balljoints sitting in the basement waiting for the right moment to put them in.
 
OK, I paid attention this time. I fumble my way through so much stuff I don't notice 'till there's a problem. LOL Kudos to you for that mastery of detail. The only thing I can't stress enough is prep: Clean, wire brush the inside (yep, I did that too), use plenty of lubricant on both surfaces.

What I did was use one sleeve with adapter on the underside, adapter to the shell on the topside. The joint DID lean inboard as the press started, straightened up as I progressed; just like 5-90 said. The shell on the TRW joint is thick enough I'd probably hurt the press first. Even then I didn't have to get evil, the frame didn't distort, but the sleeve did shift around.

That is one thing I noticed, the kit had sleeves that were too large or too small. A custom set sounds like a good idea, we'll probably have the Jeep long enough for me to do this again.

Back to the auto parts, then the grease mine. Hopefully I can play tomorrow...I sent a PM, call if you like.
 
BskisXJ said:
Man that's funny. I thought I was the only one with Nazi HOA people.
Click to expand...

Ever since the California invasion started, and property values went through the roof.

One of the other suburbs I lived in; if a realty sign went up, I was sure to see a city code enforcer soon after. The landlord purchased that house in the early '90s for 28k, like properties in the same area are going for 160k now.:twak:
 
Is it true that you want to tighten the lower ball joints before the uppers? Did my ball joints last month and pass. side is way loose while the driver's side is slightly loose...

Oz
 
I'm still not positive about "lower before upper" but then again I just finished the driver's side in that order. The balljoint slipped in cockeyed, but a 2x4 and a few whacks with a deadblow got it seated and I was able to tighten it down. Periodic stress-relieving whacks around the upper portion of the C and light taps on the body of the freshly re-frozen balljoint may have helped as well.

Now I'm stuck on bearing removal from the passenger side. Whoever says that Mag Chloride doesn't promote rust in the underbody is smoking crack... With the driver's side I was able to put a 2x4 between the bearing bolt and the C and it popped the bearing loose. With the pax side it's fighting me every step of the way; I've already shattered a pair of 2x4 sections and a 2x6 section, and have probably mangled my dust shield beyond easy repair. Dontcha love the ease of maintenance?? :D
 
Nahhh...nothing that simple. No blue torch either. I guess that's going on my Christmas list though.

Crap; I'm LEANING on a 32" slide hammer! The bearing (and studs) are getting replaced anyway...
 
Yucca-Man said:
Nahhh...nothing that simple. No blue torch either. I guess that's going on my Christmas list though.

Crap; I'm LEANING on a 32" slide hammer! The bearing (and studs) are getting replaced anyway...
Click to expand...

Have you tried working around the edge of the hub with a chisel & hammer? That worked for me when a slide hammer wouldn't touch it. Easier on the bearings, too...
 
No need, but that might not have been a bad idea. Since the bearings and studs are being replaced, they didn't need to be keptt pristine. I put three nuts on loosely, and tried slide hammering for 10 minutes with no change. Baffled on that step, I then laid back and slammed my foot into the front edge, and repeated for the rear side. After about three hits like that, the bearing was loose...the balljoints slid in pretty nicely once I realized that the upper WILL appear to go in at an angle until it rotates into place.
 
As far as bearing removal, one of the best things I read somewhere on the internet (that worked for my ZJ & a friends WJ) was to loosen everything up then put on a stock steel rim (preferably with tire--like your donut spare) BACKWARDS, put the lug nuts on and wiggle back and forth....Makes a giant lever -- couple of rockings and out it comes -- helps to have a helper if the axle shaft comes out with it and also to take the rim off as well.
 
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