frakin frak of a jeep!

[FireFly]

i replaced the coolant bottle, brand new radiator, fan clutch, t stat, hoses, and bypassed the heater core, and it still over heats unless im doing 50! if i do less it takes a bit to overheat, if i go 70 the flippin thing soars to the red line!!! IM SO PISSED! also i have some type of liquid (assuming water or coolant) coming from the bottom of my dashboard. right by the gas pedal and on the passenger side too! wtf is wrong with this thing? im ripping out that useless defected fan clutch and aux fan tomorrow and swapping in two 3.0 taurus fans. but what about the water under the dash? wtf? im so confussed

[IslanderOffRoad]

Your heater core is leaking, thats what the water under the dash is.

[rpraterxj]

sounds like heater core.... (leak)

Also check the temp switch/sensor. You may have an air "bubble" in the system. I had to replace the head on my XJ last year and it over-heated right after. I had some help burping the system and problem was solved.

Best of luck!

[FireFly]

would it leak even if its bypassed? i burped her by putting her nose down on a hill facing downhill started her up let her run for a min, then shut her off and released the pressure from the coolant bottle. didnt work idk if i did it right. where is the sensor? does that tell ur the temp on the gauge also?

[Jimbo_1321]

you said frak!!!
ha ha

[SanDiegoXJ]

would it leak even if its bypassed? i burped her by putting her nose down on a hill facing downhill started her up let her run for a min, then shut her off and released the pressure from the coolant bottle. didnt work idk if i did it right. where is the sensor? does that tell ur the temp on the gauge also?


Ok, one thing at a time....."would it leak even if it's bypassed?" How did you bypass it? And why did you bypass it? There is no need to bypass it. And bypassing it only results in you not being able to turn your heater on and release further heat to cool the engine (not a modification I would have suggested....your heater core is essentially another radiator). Also, a heater core doesn't make your engine run hotter unless it's clogged. But yes, if you just cut the tubes and left the fluid in it, it is certainly capable of leaking still. Also, it could be leaking out of where you bypassed it. (not a lot of info to go off here...so it's hard to tell what you did, how you did it, or why you did it)

i burped her by putting her nose down on a hill facing downhill started her up let her run for a min.
Color me funny, but shouldn't you have had it faced the other way? If it's faced downhill, the air bubbles will naturally collect at the highest point...in this case, the rear of the engine.

To purge the system of air, park it on flat ground, fill it with fluid. Leave the radiator cap off. Start your engine. Let it get to normal operating temp or slightly higher. The T-stat will open and allow the water pump to push the water from the radiator through forcing the air out of the engine and into the radiator. Keep filling the radiator.

Once you think you've fully cleared it of air bubbles, fill a one gallon container with a 50/50 mix and carry it with you. I've found that no matter how much I try and bleed a coolant system of air, a couple times of getting warm, cooling off, getting warm, cooling off does the job the best. Just be prepared to keep filling the overflow bottle. If you do it right the first time and you never need to fill it, so be it. But at least you're prepared. There's no harm done in carry spare fluid....the only harm comes from not carrying the necessary fluid.

Also, have you read the sticky's and gone through the basics listed in the OEM tech section regarding XJ overheating? One thing that often happens is that the lower tube collapses and stops fluid flow. Could that be your problem? Have you flushed the system? Have you cracked off the water pump and taken a look in the block to see what it looks like?

Have you checked your oil level? I know mine runs hot when it's low on oil and the way yours was smoking at Calico I assume it burns oil.

Keep in mind, stock cherokees didn't tend to overheat off the showroom floor. The cooling system in them should be sufficient. The best bet is to isolate what your problem is before you just go changing things willy nilly.

Just my $.02 tho.

[FireFly]

i bypassed the heater core because it was clogged.

im going to try putting her on flat ground and doing that purge trick.

I have read al the stickys i could find and no my core is not clogged, my pump is brand new, i have not flushed the system yet, and yes i took the pump off to check for clogs, nothin.

my oil level hasnt changed at all havent even burned one quart, but my muffler is destroyed and i remember reading that it could cause over heating for some off reason.

i have changed out the pressure bottle and all the hoses so pressure is fine.

thank you for the .02 cents. lol

[99xjache]

i bypassed the heater core because it was clogged.

im going to try putting her on flat ground and doing that purge trick.

I have read al the stickys i could find and no my core is not clogged, my pump is brand new, i have not flushed the system yet, and yes i took the pump off to check for clogs, nothin.

my oil level hasnt changed at all havent even burned one quart, but my muffler is destroyed and i remember reading that it could cause over heating for some off reason.

i have changed out the pressure bottle and all the hoses so pressure is fine.



thank you for the .02 cents. lol

Did you buy oem hoses?

I had a similar issue ofter replacing the hoses with aftermarket hose with no support springs in them.

IF there is no spring, they WILL collapse under pressure

[jeeperjohn]

my muffler is destroyed and i remember reading that it could cause over heating for some off reason.


I will have a flowmaster off of my rig available in the next week that you can have.

[SanDiegoXJ]

i bypassed the heater core because it was clogged.

im going to try putting her on flat ground and doing that purge trick.

I have read al the stickys i could find and no my core is not clogged, my pump is brand new, i have not flushed the system yet, and yes i took the pump off to check for clogs, nothin.

my oil level hasnt changed at all havent even burned one quart, but my muffler is destroyed and i remember reading that it could cause over heating for some off reason.

i have changed out the pressure bottle and all the hoses so pressure is fine.

thank you for the .02 cents. lol

Checked the radiator for clogs? Checked the radiator for blockage from air flow?

Tried pulling the T-stat all together to just let it free flow with constant circulation?

And overheating from the muffler I could only assume is caused by lack of backpressure.

And since I have the '94, we may be set up different, but I have two temp sensors. One is for the aux fan, which you can unplug the the aux fan will be on permanently, and another wedged way back in the back of the engine up agains the firewall that controls the temp guage. I've changed that bugger out a couple times. as of now, I've just given up on a functional temp guage.

Anywho, what I'm getting at, is are you assuming you're overheating because the guage is reading so? do you have access to one of those nifty little infrared temp guages that you can actually take a reading off the block? Or even try plugging in an aftermarket to verify the reading? :dunno:

Really, a coolant system isnt that tough....which is why I'm so stumped. I guess what I would do at this point is yank the t-stat, unplug both hoses from the radiator and and start flushing it out with a hose to see if (A) chunks o' junk start falling out and (B) if it's flowing throught the engine efficiently. If that all looks good, I'd do the same thing with the radiator.

If your pump is working, and the system is clear, well crap.....dunno what to say at that point.

I forgot if you said you already replaced the t-stat, but that being stuck closed is the only thing that comes to mind at this point.

I think Santa cursed it at Calico. :skull2:

EDIT: Oh and I wasn't suggesting that the engine block was clogged....but when you pop the pump off you can fish around in side and see if there is debris settled in it. If so, it is likely that you have more than just the one clog in the heater core.

[johnnyc]

i replaced the coolant bottle, brand new radiator, fan clutch, t stat, hoses

Did you convert to an open system or retain the closed system?

[SanDiegoXJ]

Bah, didn't see the "bought a new radiator".....guess you can probably bypass that whole flush the radiator suggestion. :doh:

[SanDiegoXJ]

i bypassed the heater core because it was clogged.

I will say that this is the comment that bothers me the most. I've replaced leaky heater cores before, but I've never had one clogged per se.

If enough junk is in the system to clog the heater core, it's quite possible there are clogs elsewhere, or at least enough Barr's (or whatever radiator leak fix may have been used in the past) to build up on the hoses and such to limit flow....kinda like a clogged artery. I know that in a ford 351 theres all these little channels in the motor for coolant to flow. I assume the same goes for a Jeep engine. If so, those could be all clogged up as well. I don't know if a flush would clear that out or not. But I can't help but think a flush is the next best step. Sorry to be the first to start suggesting more serious issues than a fan or radiator. =( And hopefully I'm way off base for your sake. =)

[FireFly]

ya me too but thank you guys all or your insight. i checked the tstat and it when the engine is off the tstat is still open. but the engine is still pretty hot so i think thats ok. im ripping the condensor to increase air flow to the rad and im just now dropping in the new taurus fans (wiring them up to a switch sucks!!) to jonnyc yes, its a closed system. i see no problem with it. if it worked before it should still work now. they a direct oem hoses from goodyear they do not have springs persay but something else that keeps them from collapsing. the prssur test came back at 14lbs so the pressure is optimal also. I really dont want to take the pump off again because those serpintine belts are almost impossible to get back on (all my p.s. pump bolts are stripped an wont move) but if i must i will.

*EDIT*

thanks for the offer john but i got a muffler just waiting for my buddy to stop getting in trouble to weld it on for me lol.

[bigalpha]

Did you verify the aux fan was working as it should?
Is your water pump in good condition and the impeller facing the right direction?
Is your temp sender working properly?
Is your belt tightened enough?
New rad cap with new rad?

I've had numerous suggestions to run it a day or two with only vinegar in the system then do a complete flush. This'll help dissolve deposits and such.

[FireFly]

aux fan and fan clutch are completely fried. pump like i said before is brand new only a 2 months old. temp sender i have no idea it reads like i should. belt is tight, i have a closed system so yes new radiator, bottle, and cap. vinegar? really?

[bigalpha]

Ah, I missed the pump post.

If your aux fan and fan clutch are completely fried, you need to replace them. That's why you're overheating.

[FireFly]

i am in the middle of that. but i cannot find out how to wire them up. im taking the crappy tiny aux fan, and mech fan out and putting in those taurus fans. i have some electrical knowledge but i cant figure out how to put these in. im trying to put them on a switch i can toggle myself in the dash.

[bigalpha]

Why not just replace them with OEM? They are more than satisfactory for the job.

[FireFly]

not in 110 degree weather. plus they are expensive as hell. and i have the taurus fans here already.

[bigalpha]

Then you have something else wrong. Installing dual Taurus fans is only covering up a problem. It gets in the high 90's here and the stock cooling system should be good, if in good order.

[FireFly]

well, i have no idea wut the problem is!!!! the rad isnt clogged, pump works fine, hoses are fine AN DO NOT COLLAPSE, t stat is new at the oem 195 temp, pressure is fine, bottle is fine!!! wtf else could it be!?!? and please dont say convert to an open system, i dont have time for that.

[bigalpha]

heh. but you have time to learn how to run electrical?

Anyhow, could be cloggy in the block. I say run with vinegar/water for a few days and see if that helps.

[FireFly]

well thank you for your insight but im just pissed cuz its one thing after another with this jeep lately. dump all the coolant and put in 1 1/2 gallons of vinegar/water? white vinegar?

[bigalpha]

Not sure about the ratios to use for the vinegar/water. I've never done it and it was only suggested to me.

[cal]

i am in the middle of that. but i cannot find out how to wire them up. im taking the crappy tiny aux fan, and mech fan out and putting in those taurus fans. i have some electrical knowledge but i cant figure out how to put these in. im trying to put them on a switch i can toggle myself in the dash.



Read this, if it doesn't help, you'd better buy a kit to wire the fans up with.

The site is RX7 specific, but his section on wiring up the fan with diagrams and such is pretty alright.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efaninstall.htm

[FireFly]

thanks. i went to mock up the fans and i cant get them to fit at all!!! my luck just keeps on getting better and better!!

[jeeperjohn]

thanks. i went to mock up the fans and i cant get them to fit at all!!! my luck just keeps on getting better and better!!
If you can't get the Taurus fans installed then you are better off with the stock fan but I would suggest skipping the clutch and mount it solid. Make sure you put the shroud on or it will not work well.

[4xSanta]

Why don't you quit dickin around and put it together with OEM parts like lots of jeeps have. In very hot weather most jeeps have little or no problems with OEM stuff, you don't seem to have the skills to be modifying anything and you will end up killin your engine.If your fans are wasted why are you even talking about over heating until you get them running, no fans your motor will get hot!By the way the sleigh has OEM cooling system.......SANTA

[FireFly]

i figured you did santa... i was thinking about that but it came down to this on the fans, rewire the aux fan to get it running again (dont know why, just wont turn on. checked fuses and relay all fine.) or just wire it to a switch on the dash and make it easier. either way i have to rewire the aux fan somehow.

[SanDiegoXJ]

i figured you did santa... i was thinking about that but it came down to this on the fans, rewire the aux fan to get it running again (dont know why, just wont turn on. checked fuses and relay all fine.) or just wire it to a switch on the dash and make it easier. either way i have to rewire the aux fan somehow.

Tell ya what, you're better off wiring those fans straight to a accessory power supply to see if they even work. You can run wires, install relays, mount day-glo switches, but if it doesn't even fix the problem, it's all for nothing.

[Leep]

This may be a dumb question but is this an auto or manual. The reason for this question is that I was experiencing the same problem and discovered that my trans was going out and that it was cooking the trans fluid that was plumbed thru the radiator(closed system at the time). I since replaced the trans and avoided the rad cooling for the trans and added and additional cooler with a fan for that application. Now it wont heat up past 180.

I also have a 96 with all stock cooling and running the AC up the cajon pass has no affect on the cooling what so ever.

Now, just my .02 worth.

[FireFly]

they do work. already been tested. the switch that turns it on isnt functional

[FireFly]

its an aw4 auto.

[4xSanta]

Tell ya what, you're better off wiring those fans straight to a accessory power supply to see if they even work. You can run wires, install relays, mount day-glo switches, but if it doesn't even fix the problem, it's all for nothing.

You could wire them directly to the battery to test um than like you say if that fixes it add all the relay switches etc......SANTA

[FireFly]

im done with it all. im having a buddy of mine from the sierra chapter help me by doing all the wiring. i took the clutch out and returning it and putting in two electric fans. both are eleven inches pumping out a total of 2800 cfm. which should be fine.

[Leep]

Anytime you add anything electrical that draws more then 15 amps always run a relay to drive the device.

You are better off in the long run.

[xjjeeper19]

the fastest way to bleed that system is to fill the coolant bottle and then remove the temp sensor on the back of the head (driver side in the back 11mm or 7/16th socket or wrench). That sensor runs the gauge, and the sensor on the radiator runs the fan. If there is an air pocket back there, it will always read hot. Pull the sensor and see if coolant comes out. when it does, wait for a steady stream then put the sensor back in, but don't let the recovery bottle get less than half full.

[johnnyc]

the fastest way to bleed that system is to fill the coolant bottle and then remove the temp sensor on the back of the head (driver side in the back 11mm or 7/16th socket or wrench). That sensor runs the gauge, and the sensor on the radiator runs the fan. If there is an air pocket back there, it will always read hot. Pull the sensor and see if coolant comes out. when it does, wait for a steady stream then put the sensor back in, but don't let the recovery bottle get less than half full.

That's what we did on my buddy's Renix last weekend. We jacked the rear up so that the sensor hole would be higher.

My buddy had complained about overheating. After we burped it, he's been driving it all week with no more problems.

That's why I asked before if you still had the closed system.

[xjjeeper19]

That's what we did on my buddy's Renix last weekend. We jacked the rear up so that the sensor hole would be higher.

My buddy had complained about overheating. After we burped it, he's been driving it all week with no more problems.

That's why I asked before if you still had the closed system.


That is the best way I have found to bleed the old renix.

[Andy Steiner]

Your original symptoms sound just like mine. After I changed out the entire cooling system (aluminum radiator, hi-flow thermostat housing, new thermostat, new cap, new fan clutch, new sensor, new water pump, new hoses, new heater hoses, head gasket, muffler and cat, new O2 sensors, transmission service and another thermostat) it still ran hot.

Finally, a shop ran a pressure test and found that the new radiator cap wasn't holding pressure. Put on a new cap and the temp gauge went back to normal. 210 cruising, 215-220 on long uphill climbs and 200 coasting downhill. I'm still losing coolant from someplace, but can't find it.

[scottmcneal]

When you hooked up the heater hoses did you put them on right..Mine was backwards so she would over heat..

[Jeep-Thing]

I've been having the same problem for the past two weeks. All new radiator , tubing, tstat, tstat housing....still overheating...yet not as fast. I've had some people trying to convince me that it could be a head gasket problem...yet I detect no leaks?? Everytime it overheats, smoke comes from the right side of the block, right at the manifold seal. I've had suspicions that the 33's i've been turnin could have eaten my tranny, is there a good way to check that doesn't involve time spent underneath the b@stad?

[bigalpha]

I've been having the same problem for the past two weeks. All new radiator , tubing, tstat, tstat housing....still overheating...yet not as fast. I've had some people trying to convince me that it could be a head gasket problem...yet I detect no leaks?? Everytime it overheats, smoke comes from the right side of the block, right at the manifold seal. I've had suspicions that the 33's i've been turnin could have eaten my tranny, is there a good way to check that doesn't involve time spent underneath the b@stad?

Yeah, check the condition of the tranny fluid. If it's burned, you know your tranny has been overheating.

Does your e-fan and clutch fan work? You may want to go ahead and replace your clutch fan.

[FireFly]

so everything works and is fine now. turned out the last thing to make it overheat was the hose from the bottom of the coolant bottle was collapsed. changed it out and poof all done!

[FireFly]

thanks guys for all your help. i know my car is a heep but i still love it.