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alek21
April 17th, 2009, 17:59
i have a couple questions about going through the floor in the rear. what size shocks are people running? 14"? 16"? 18"? what valving in the shocks is best? im running the RE 5.5 full leaf packs in the rear, and the 5.5 coils up front. some pics of your setups would be nice, i plan on getting a cage pretty soon so the upper mounts will come off the cage. i do crawling and want to be able to go fast as well... thanks guys

Swamprat
April 17th, 2009, 19:52
runnign the shocks through the floor, should also help out on the trails. or so i hear...

xjjeeper19
April 17th, 2009, 20:09
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=984521

pics and info... read up

-96JeepSpeed-
April 18th, 2009, 07:11
Fox 14".

http://i39.tinypic.com/2re31as.jpg

GrimmJeeper
April 18th, 2009, 07:57
king 16s:

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w37/grimmpics/IM001197.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w37/grimmpics/IM001198.jpg

alek21
April 18th, 2009, 11:46
sweet thanks guys... hey 96jeepspeed you wanna trade your m/t spare for an a/t spare? lol i have muds and have an all terrain spare, and you have al terrains and have a mud spare.. ?

anyways, so it looks like most are using either 14s or 16s.. i take it if i wanted to use 16s the top mount would have to be higher? how much of a difference does going through the floor make? huge? or eh not that much?

thanks again guys

GrimmJeeper
April 18th, 2009, 14:20
how much of a difference does going through the floor make? huge? or eh not that much?
it was like night and day for me. the shocks dont fade because of the larger oil capacity, they stay much cooler. my rear shocks are valved very stiff as well, its hard on the street but off road the landings are nice and smooth in the rear.

alek21
April 18th, 2009, 15:45
it was like night and day for me. the shocks dont fade because of the larger oil capacity, they stay much cooler. my rear shocks are valved very stiff as well, its hard on the street but off road the landings are nice and smooth in the rear.

thanks grimm.. another thing im wondering about is how people cover the holes that you cut in the floor? its my dd so dust coming in like crazy would really suck lol

GrimmJeeper
April 18th, 2009, 15:48
some people use wetsuit material, some use cut up ATV innertubes, some (like me) just dgaf :D theres dust from all over CA in my truck, i think more comes out those holes than goes in lol... but im a windows open wheeler. when im DDing i usually roll up a couple towels or old tshirts and wrap em around the shocks then stuff em in the holes.

silverslk
April 19th, 2009, 22:17
Just so you know go as big as you can fit/afford. The larger the shock the more oil and the better against fade (Grimm mentioned fade but not capacity). I would recommend 2.5's over 2.0's also. BIG DIFFERENCE going there.

alek21
April 19th, 2009, 22:39
Just so you know go as big as you can fit/afford. The larger the shock the more oil and the better against fade (Grimm mentioned fade but not capacity). I would recommend 2.5's over 2.0's also. BIG DIFFERENCE going there.

so if i find a good deal on some 18"s then i should swoop up on em? ive been lookin around all the go fast sites i can and there seem to be some pretty good deals, you just have to jump on em fast

crazyjim
April 19th, 2009, 22:50
Just so you know go as big as you can fit/afford. The larger the shock the more oil and the better against fade (Grimm mentioned fade but not capacity). I would recommend 2.5's over 2.0's also. BIG DIFFERENCE going there.
This is exactly right... Alek, why do you think I'm going 2.5's? For what you do, my shocks would be fine, but a 2.5 through the floor would work better if you ever pushed your junk to that limit.

alek21
April 19th, 2009, 22:55
This is exactly right... Alek, why do you think I'm going 2.5's? For what you do, my shocks would be fine, but a 2.5 through the floor would work better if you ever pushed your junk to that limit.

well i think im going to go with whatever comes up first/what i can afford when something comes up. i am going to try and hold out for the best shocks i can find because it would probably be best to go big at first that way i dont have to change it later when i want to go faster.

BajaCurt
April 19th, 2009, 23:06
Here you go....very nice but alot of $$$
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=7&md=second&id=5912

-96JeepSpeed-
April 19th, 2009, 23:58
how much of a difference does going through the floor make? huge? or eh not that much?

thanks again guys
HUGE!

XJRunner
April 27th, 2009, 19:42
When i put my shocks through the floor I plan on getting these
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Floor-Mount-Trim-Kit,6210.html

GrimmJeeper
April 28th, 2009, 12:47
When i put my shocks through the floor I plan on getting these
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Floor-Mount-Trim-Kit,6210.html

nice find!

XJRunner
April 28th, 2009, 12:50
I know and I plan on running 2 inch shocks so its perfect

GrimmJeeper
April 28th, 2009, 12:59
looks like the biggest size is 2.25? i wonder how well they will stretch for 2.5s....

XJRunner
April 28th, 2009, 13:15
its only another quarter inch im sure they'd fit

Ryan93
April 28th, 2009, 17:01
its only another quarter inch im sure they'd fit
famous words :rof:

dirtbagXJ2103
May 1st, 2009, 11:58
if you run a bypass those holes are going to be bigger and harder to seal if that matters to u that is

alek21
May 3rd, 2009, 22:20
anyone have any pics of how you mounted your shocks to the axle? just use the stock location or?? ive heard that when you move your shock mounts to the top/front/back of your axle your pinion angle isnt correct for compensating of accelerating/decelerating.. ??

xjjeeper19
May 4th, 2009, 19:05
anyone have any pics of how you mounted your shocks to the axle? just use the stock location or?? ive heard that when you move your shock mounts to the top/front/back of your axle your pinion angle isnt correct for compensating of accelerating/decelerating.. ??


Like this... It was just mocked up here, I welded it when everything else was welded.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f66/xjjeeper19/DSC00273.jpg

Ryno XJ
May 4th, 2009, 19:44
Here is mine.....basically the same
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk5/rynoxj/XJ%20build-up/Jeepbuildpics007.jpg

karstic
May 7th, 2009, 14:03
When i put my shocks through the floor I plan on getting these
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Floor-Mount-Trim-Kit,6210.html

How's that gonna work with a shock that will move around?

alek21
May 7th, 2009, 21:46
i was thinking i could get some of the rubber covers that covers the shifter stick in the cab of a manual.. just cut a hole in the top and gorilla glue the bottom to the floor.

hellbilly04
May 7th, 2009, 22:51
anyone have any pics of how you mounted your shocks to the axle? just use the stock location or?? ive heard that when you move your shock mounts to the top/front/back of your axle your pinion angle isnt correct for compensating of accelerating/decelerating.. ??

here is a pic of the lower mounts I did
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u309/hellbilly86/Craigs%20Jeep/IMG_0750.jpg

XJRunner
May 8th, 2009, 12:55
How's that gonna work with a shock that will move around?

you dont use the metal mount. just the boot and the chrome floor trim

Ryan93
May 8th, 2009, 14:48
or cut the pieces that connect the bottom part to the top and it will free float around while the top part still grips the shock.. if im explaining that right..

karstic
May 9th, 2009, 21:56
you dont use the metal mount. just the boot and the chrome floor trim

Gotcha

Starboard M
May 11th, 2009, 11:33
What valving are you guys using?

robojeep
May 20th, 2009, 19:00
Like this... It was just mocked up here, I welded it when everything else was welded.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f66/xjjeeper19/DSC00273.jpgWhat about axle wrap? I read that a configuration of 1 shock in front of the tube and the other behind the tube helps control wrap, thoughts?

Also, any reason everyone in this thread has the bolt running parallel to the axle, rather than perpendicular?

xjjeeper19
May 20th, 2009, 19:39
What about axle wrap? I read that a configuration of 1 shock in front of the tube and the other behind the tube helps control wrap, thoughts?

Also, any reason everyone in this thread has the bolt running parallel to the axle, rather than perpendicular?


I have no axle wrap with my Deavers....

DesertRunner
May 20th, 2009, 21:14
I have no axle wrap with my Deavers....
X2 never had a problem with the stroker and the deavers!

HeavyMetal
May 19th, 2010, 09:52
Bumping an old thread so as to not clutter with new ones on the same subject.

Do any of you have a picture looking up from the axle of the shock going into the jeep? I took a look at mine for a bit (i want to mount the shock on the spring plate) and it seems like there isnt much room to work with between the wheel-well itself and the unibody frame rail there for a shock to go through..and it may have to be on a bit of an inward canted angle to accomplish it...which seems like it could be odd fitment to me, and potentially will be kissing the frame..ive never seen anyone cut up the wheel-well at all to get the shock through, so this is why i ask.

also, i assume the shock has more fore and aft motion moreso than side-side motion, so perhaps a slightly elongated hole for the shock is logical in the floor? no real way for me to know how much they move...figure i'd ask before doing the good ol 'guess check and revise' tactic, haha

ALSO, i have seen on more than one occasion guys mounting their shoicks on the spring plate with the orientation of the bushing/bolt parallel with the axle as opposed to the stock direction of perpendicular..reasoning? (2 examples in this thread)

GrimmJeeper
May 19th, 2010, 10:18
it seems like there isnt much room to work with between the wheel-well itself and the unibody frame rail there for a shock to go through..and it may have to be on a bit of an inward canted angle to accomplish it...which seems like it could be odd fitment to me, and potentially will be kissing the frame..ive never seen anyone cut up the wheel-well at all to get the shock through, so this is why i ask.

also, i assume the shock has more fore and aft motion moreso than side-side motion, so perhaps a slightly elongated hole for the shock is logical in the floor?

This is exactly why my floors are peeling up next to the frame rail. I didn't take into account the side to side motion of the shocks, only fore/aft. i left 2" in front and 2" behind the shock, no problems there. there is 3/4" on the outside (next to the fenderwell) and 1/2" on the inside (next to the frame rail). the inside is the only area that hits. the Filars cut thier inner fenderwell to run the shock in a better position, as well as many others. someone on this board did a really clean job and actually cut the section of the fenderwell and welded in a curved piece of metal to go around it to close the fenderwell back off. remember if you cut into the fenderwell anything kicked up by the tires is going to go right inside the jeep (mud, dust, rocks, etc). Pics at the end of this post.

no real way for me to know how much they move...figure i'd ask before doing the good ol 'guess check and revise' tactic, haha

thats a tough one. you cant really know until you know where and how high you are mounting the top of the shock. its going to pivot on that point and the more it is in front or behind the center line (straight up) the more it is going to pivot on that upper mount.

hope this helps. Here is a pic of the filars where the bypass shock is through the fender well, as well as a couple pics of my setup.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b304/EricFilar/Parker1.jpg

side view from outside
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w37/grimmpics/CIMG3941.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w37/grimmpics/IM001197.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w37/grimmpics/IM001198.jpg

that last one is kind of a crappy pic but you can see how close it was to the shock body. on the way home from getting the hoop welded in it dented up all four sides of that hole... just driving on the street.

ill try to get a better pic of what it looks like now, that area is really beat up now. My Jeep isn't here or I would go out and snap a pic right now.

and before anyone give me shit for the single shear mount .!. :D .!. it is what it is. its a 5/8s grade 8 bolt and its mounted to a solid piece of billet round stock drilled out and welded all the way around on both sides. thats the only part of the entire hoop that hasnt moved, lol. the legs have deformed (i think from the floor and frame rails being tweaked) and the welds are cracking on the underside of the braces. No big deal though, everything will be in a new body in a month or so :D

hope this helps ya out a bit in your decision bud :cheers:

HeavyMetal
May 19th, 2010, 10:20
great post, thank you for the help!

I Beamed Jeep
May 19th, 2010, 10:30
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/TNTACR/JeepSpeed/Picture144.jpg
Here's one I found hope it helps.

Skullver
May 19th, 2010, 12:34
hope this helps, good luck!
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a230/skullver/swayaway%20%20bypass%20shocks/uppershockmount1735.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a230/skullver/swayaway%20%20bypass%20shocks/lowershockmount1735.jpg

Ryan93
May 19th, 2010, 13:45
anyone have pictures of this done with the back seat still in?

alek21
May 19th, 2010, 13:55
im pretty sure Grimm's back seat still works, its just folded down.. or at least thats what it looks like

GrimmJeeper
May 19th, 2010, 15:06
mine is still functional, that was my main requirement when building it as I have kids. Plus, its fun to pack people in the back and scare the crap out of them after they've been drinking quite a bit at camp, the ride in the back is a lot different than it is up front :D

not the best pic, but you can see the seat is still up here.

http://www.blacksheepcrew.net/webgallery/albums/userpics/10001/DSCF2118.jpg

Ryan93
May 19th, 2010, 17:51
Perfect thanks man, yea having my backseat is essential

xcm
May 19th, 2010, 18:28
I dont miss my back seat, i miss being able to load my xj full of tools =\

sinse i went thru the floor, ive noticed lots of smaller tools going missing. time to figure out a boot.

at this point, my bedcage isnt attached to the main cage, i cant see this ending well. i can see the entire rear structure move around over speedbumps, so grimm's situation makes a lot of sense.

HeavyMetal
May 19th, 2010, 19:17
at this point, my bedcage isnt attached to the main cage, i cant see this ending well. i can see the entire rear structure move around over speedbumps, so grimm's situation makes a lot of sense.

man, its that bad??? i definitely wasnt planning on having this tied into a main cage anytime truly soon

ratboy93
May 19th, 2010, 19:26
im not sure about JS legal but no one has mentioned about going with 3" resi shocks. im almost positive 3" is ok for js. i was talking with a couple guys from king and kartek the other day at kartek and we were talking about the 3" king jeepspeed shock. although this shock is for the front... a 3" shock holds more oil meaning less shock fade.
ive also heard of a 3" resi out performing a 2.5 triple. now if you have the dow get a pair of 3.0 16" triple for the back, the hole in the floor is goin to resemble a gaping wound but they will be insane bad ass

xcm
May 19th, 2010, 20:00
man, its that bad??? i definitely wasnt planning on having this tied into a main cage anytime truly soon


i definately was using hyperbole, but it does move a lil bit. my bedcage is bolted on at 4 points, clearly not enough!
grimmjeeper has a theory that his bedcage combined with desert running lead to a lot of his unibody problems.

HeavyMetal
May 19th, 2010, 20:01
noted!

GrimmJeeper
May 19th, 2010, 22:19
it does move a lil bit.


grimmjeeper has a theory that his bedcage combined with desert running lead to a lot of his unibody problems.

this is where i would say "that's an understatement" to the bold type, then have to reply to my own post with "understatement MY ASS!"

I can't say the problems in the back of my XJ were caused by my shock hoop 100%, but it suuuuure looks like it if you follow the ideas of where the force from my hoop would be applied and where it would go from there, etc.


im no physics major, but i know i have a physical problem in my XJ that needs major attention if that matters :D

DieselSJ
May 19th, 2010, 23:25
im not sure about JS legal but no one has mentioned about going with 3" resi shocks. im almost positive 3" is ok for js. i was talking with a couple guys from king and kartek the other day at kartek and we were talking about the 3" king jeepspeed shock. although this shock is for the front... a 3" shock holds more oil meaning less shock fade.
ive also heard of a 3" resi out performing a 2.5 triple. now if you have the dow get a pair of 3.0 16" triple for the back, the hole in the floor is goin to resemble a gaping wound but they will be insane bad ass

In JS you can run a 2.5" bypass or a 3" smoothie. For the past 4 years the championship car and 2nd place car have run 2.5" bypass so you can draw your own conclusions as to what is better. When was the last time a car with 3" Kings won a championship? I think it was never...

As for fade resistance, I'll put our current 2.5" Bilstein against ANY 3" smoothie.

Ryno XJ
May 21st, 2010, 07:40
anyone have pictures of this done with the back seat still in?

Do these back seats count?lol
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk5/rynoxj/XJ%20build-up/Jeepbuildpics002.jpg