• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

A couple of real world upgrades

CRASH

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Foresthill, CA
Problem statement:

The spring pivots on the rear of my junk were giving up the ghost, the outside support was collapsing into the floor, and the blind nuts were both broken off inside the boxed section of chassis. They were junk.

I was originally on a rear 4 link path, but decided against it for two simple reasons. (1), i did not want to cut up the rear body work to do it correctly and (2) the leafs will keep up with any destination I plan to take a full bodied rig with a family on board.

Opportunities:

1) I noted that there was some room for modifying the geometry of the OEM set-up as well as some of the mods I had implemented over the years. The spring pivot had room to move down almost a full inch without affecting ground clearance at all, so I designed that in to the new pivots.

2) The shackle side had been modified by me when I was running a set of cobbled together leaves that were too short. You'll recall that I had built a plate on the bottom of the OEM shackle box and pivoted new shackles on that plate in an attempt to get better feel and articulation from the cobbled together pack. That worked until I bought Paul Sinclair's lightly used Nationals about 4 years ago. They are 1" longer than OEM, and put the modified shackle at too much of an angle, which wreaked havoc with spring rate. Essentially, the rate was soft for most the travel, but got very stiff very quickly as the shackle flattened and forced the spring to try and pull itself apart to get the last 2 inches of up-travel. That's pretty hard on springs! I decided to cut my old shackle hangers out and go back to the OEM shackle mount with a 6" long offset shackle that I built. So with that:

My son Matthew and I refreshed a set of 11 leaf Nationals. These are Fishboys old springs, and they are very good. A nice combination of load carrying and flexibility. Military wrapped, with an extra snail leaf on top to control drive torque. We put in a new center pin and replaced a handful of spring pads:



100_1919.jpg


100_1918.jpg




Obviously, I had to build the new hangers necessary to hold the front of these springs. I also took the time to build a reinforcement plate to distribute the load along a greater portion of the rear frame rail :



100_1192.jpg




100_1194.jpg






While this was likely plenty of renforcement, I wanted to tie the outside of the spring hanger to something. I decided the best thing to do was to run a vertical tube up into the passenger compartment and build a new tubular crossmember that ran from door sill to door sill. I also wanted to tie it into the 2x6" box I use for a rocker panel. With this in mind, heres the new hanger:


100_1189.jpg




The OEM setup has the spring spaced away from the frame by about 3/4" inch. My reinforcements were about 1/4", so I needed to add a half inch of spacer:


100_1190.jpg



100_1205.jpg



100_1206.jpg


100_1207-1.jpg




And here is how it ties into the inside. The tube is a 1.5" x .90"wall piece of DOM that is welded to the top of the (trimmed) OEM seat mount/crossmember. The OEM piece has been rewelded to the floor along it's length. My son's (and eventually daughter's) seat will be mounted to the new tube with some sort of tab.



100_2025.jpg




100_2026.jpg




100_2027.jpg





Here they are installed:

100_1973.jpg




100_2034.jpg
 
Along the way, I wanted to correct some annoying stuff that I had left alone for too long. I've always hated the companion flange and crush sleeve set-up of the Ford 8.8. My crush sleeve, after having had several negative encounters with rocks over the last 3 years, had loosened up, making the pinion floppy. I corrected it with a solid spacer and shim kit from Summit. While I was in there, I installed a very nice forged 1310 yoke from Inland Empire driveline.


100_2030.jpg



The old wheel cylinder brake lines were rubber, and ran along the back of the axle. They hung down a bit, and looked as if they'de snagged some bad stuff in the past. I ordered new DOT approved steel lines from Poly Performance. I routed them from the wheel cylinder up the back of the axle tube vertically to keep them out of harm's way:


100_1983.jpg



I still needed to do something about the shocks. My last set-up took both shocks off the front of the axle, up and in to a tubular crossmember. They worked OK, but were too far inboarded and allowed more body roll on snap direction changes than I liked. Plus, being in front of the axle, they took a huge beating. For this go-round, I knew I wanted to run 7100's and put them behind the tube. This has two advantges, one, they are more protected, and two, while moving forward, the axle wrap forces are acting to pull the shock apart, in essence pulling on the rebound side of the damping, which in my application is almost 4x the compression side damping. We'll see if this helps, as I am trying to eliminate my 161% antisquat traction bar:


100_1980.jpg



Lower mounts, also visible are new 5/8" U-bolts and the bungs I welded into the truss to accept limit straps:


100_1989.jpg





The new crossmember is 1.5" box with a .125 wall. The shock attachment bolts are reinforced with .120" tabs to prevent walloowing the bolts. Also installed full-length sleeves into the member to accept the upper end of the limit strap, and note that with most of the OEM crossmember and tank attachment points cut out to fit the new crossmember, I built slotted hangers for the fuel tank into the new unit:




100_1988.jpg




100_1989.jpg





The new setup uses 12" short body 7100's with 275/78 damping. They are at a 25 degree angle which yields 5" up travel and almost 9" down. I can't use the full 9" down, so i may chuck them into the lathe and turn them into 11" short bodies to get a little more bump travel with no down-travel sacrifice. We'll see how it feels.


Since I stole the front shocks off my rig for the rear, I needed new ones up front. I was running a 250 lb/in spring in the front, which works great in the mixed desert rock environment of the Southwest, but was a little stiff for 8 hour days on Sierra rock trails. I'm going ack to my old 225 lb/in units with the addition of a 2" air bump. Bilstein valving is still 275/78, 12" travel. Its all I can use before the hydro ram goes crashing into the oil pan.

Teaser shot:



100_2272.jpg





Wow, been a long time since I posted any real tech on this site!
 
nice work, Crash. You should come back and visit more often!:greensmok
 
Isn't it nice to see Crash back posting up some good stuff. :D


Thanks, Andy. :)
 
looks great!!! What leafs are those? they look like my friend's lift spring on his 1 ton chev.



My son Matthew and I refreshed a set of 11 leaf Nationals. These are Fishboys old springs, and they are very good. A nice combination of load carrying and flexibility. Military wrapped, with an extra snail leaf on top to control drive torque. We put in a new center pin and replaced a handful of spring pads:
 
looks great!!! What leafs are those? they look like my friend's lift spring on his 1 ton chev.

While the Nationals look they would have a high spring rate, they are really quite well suited to a trail rig application. They are 163 lbs/in. The leaves are all .125, and are very progressive.
 
Awesome stuff per usual.
 
how well do those bump stops work?

So far, sitting on my bench, they look awesome. :greensmoke:

These are new to me, I have used various types of rubber and poly over the years, and have been marginally happy. It was time to step up. Should have them installed after my first run of the year (May 8). I'm finishing exhaust this weekend.
 
Back
Top