D60 Install

Ghost · Apr 16, 2009

I have been cleaning out the shop for the last month or more. I got the axles out and put them close to the jeep recently.

Got the shop cleaned and I moved the rear to the rear.

I Took the perch off the PS and the swaybar bracket off the DS.

Ghost · Apr 16, 2009

I forgot the questioin I wanted to ask. On the driver side of the axle the spring perch is part of the third member. Do you have to cut this back to make the LCA mount line up?

RCman · Apr 16, 2009

Good start... long road ahead!

Ghost said:
I forgot the questioin I wanted to ask. On the driver side of the axle the spring perch is part of the third member. Do you have to cut this back to make the LCA mount line up?

I put this in your other thread, but I'll copy it here.

What type of suspension setup are you planning on running?
I'm pretty confident that one could place the mounts in almost stock location with no trimming required. There was just enough room on my '79 to fit the lowers where I needed them to be for my 3-link and while I havn't measured it, I'm sure they are close to stock width on the axle side anyway. I'll double check tomorrow evening for sure.

Now later models (80s and up), that's a different story.

Ghost · Apr 16, 2009

RCman said:
Good start... long road ahead!

I put this in your other thread, but I'll copy it here.

What type of suspension setup are you planning on running?
I'm pretty confident that one could place the mounts in almost stock location with no trimming required. There was just enough room on my '79 to fit the lowers where I needed them to be for my 3-link and while I havn't measured it, I'm sure they are close to stock width on the axle side anyway. I'll double check tomorrow evening for sure.

Now later models (80s and up), that's a different story.

Andy (Ironman 4x4) will be here this weekend to help with the fab and welding. I currently run a 3 link front. I am thinking about making this an ultimate adventure type of rig in the future, so I may want to add a 4th Link later. It will be an adventure no matter what.

RCman · Apr 16, 2009

Ghost said:
Andy (Ironman 4x4) will be here this weekend to help with the fab and welding. I currently run a 3 link front. I am thinking about making this an ultimate adventure type of rig in the future, so I may want to add a 4th Link later. It will be an adventure no matter what.

Ahh, ok. So there really is no reason you need to be at stock locations for the front lower axle side then. I'm positive you can get very close to stock though if for whatever reason you need it. I'll measure mine tomorrow, (now today really).

What are you plans for steering, hubs, lockers, etc? Are you planning on keeping the 30spliners out back? I'm assuming you are keeping the 5.38s like you have now.
I read that you are going to run H1s, it is a tight fit with those if you keep them stock backspacing.

jeepfreak1020 · Apr 16, 2009

Thats one nice lookin rige. whats the specs on it. I like the D60s to

Ghost · Apr 16, 2009

jeepfreak1020 said:
Thats one nice lookin rige. whats the specs on it. I like the D60s to

$200 94 4.0L, aw-4 (sat in a field for 2 years) Marvelous Mystery Oil in each cylinder and been running for the last 2 on trails mainly. Dodge 203/Ford205 Tcases, ford 9" and 73 D44 with flattop knuckles with 79 ford hubs and rotors. 36 Irok's.

Right now I'll run the factory 4.10 with lunch box lockers for now. Looking at the 40" LTB or the 42" SX with the H1's. Andy picked up my H1's from a guy in Charlotte today. I was going to run the drag link on top of the factory location with one hi-steer arm but from looking at your thread I will either have to rethink that or recenter. I don't want to recenter. What did it cost you to make those arms? I have no access to anting like that ATM but I do have people I know that are machinist. Would you consider sharing you plans with me to see get a price quote from a friend? If not I understand. [email protected] Long term goal is to go to 35 spline rear or make mine 35 spline and 5.38's again. Unfortunately the cash from the axles and tires will be going toward tires and whatever else I may need this weekend. Goal is to have the axles in by Saturday night. It will not be drivable but will be on its on tires.

RCman · Apr 16, 2009

Ghost said:
Right now I'll run the factory 4.10 with lunch box lockers for now. Looking at the 40" LTB or the 42" SX with the H1's. Andy picked up my H1's from a guy in Charlotte today. I was going to run the drag link on top of the factory location with one hi-steer arm but from looking at your thread I will either have to rethink that or recenter. I don't want to recenter. What did it cost you to make those arms? I have no access to anting like that ATM but I do have people I know that are machinist. Would you consider sharing you plans with me to see get a price quote from a friend? If not I understand. [email protected] Long term goal is to go to 35 spline rear or make mine 35 spline and 5.38's again. Unfortunately the cash from the axles and tires will be going toward tires and whatever else I may need this weekend. Goal is to have the axles in by Saturday night. It will not be drivable but will be on its on tires.

Stock H1s are not going to work with the stock steering locations unless you run spacers or recenter them. Neither of which I wanted to do or did.

As for the plans for the steering arms... there isn't any real official drawings of them. I've got a few sketches on some paper and those plywood mockups. I could quickly dimension it all out for you if you needed and send it your way if you are truly interested. Let me know and I'll get on that sometime this weekend.

For the cost of the steering arms, I couldn't even throw a guess. Of course I didn't pay for my labor and I got the 4140 alloy steel relatively cheap (which is really overkill, 1020 or 1018 would probably be fine).

The above being said, you can purchase high steer arms from a few companies that are already offset for the H1s. I didn't do that for a few reasons.
First, most of the ones that I would have been able to afford all retain the use of the stock cap. If you look closely at the cap you'll see that it has a pretty decent fillet around the edge of the spring retainer before it gets tot he cap bolts. I didn't like the fact that the inside of the arm would have to get radius'd to clear those as in my opinion it makes for a kind of weak setup.
Secondly, most of the arms are only 3/4 or 1" thick and do not have an angle on the end to correct for the proper alignment of the joints. Sure, I could have added it myself, but at the 9degrees it takes to correct the angle the material thickness drops almost 1/4". I didn't feel that 1/2" (starting with 3/4") or 3/4" (starting with 1") was enough. It probably is, but I just didn't want it if I was going to be using a 3/4" bolt. By starting with the 1-1/4" material that I did I was able to retain just over 1" at the end after the corrected angle where the bolt goes through.
Third, I just plain enjoyed making them!

Sorry for the long winded post, I probably have to much thought into it.
Again, let me know if you want me to create quick drawing for you with dimensions and I'll do it.
(For those that don't have any clue what either of us are referring to, go here)

Ghost · Apr 16, 2009

RCman said:
Stock H1s are not going to work with the stock steering locations unless you run spacers or recenter them. Neither of which I wanted to do or did.

As for the plans for the steering arms... there isn't any real official drawings of them. I've got a few sketches on some paper and those plywood mockups. I could quickly dimension it all out for you if you needed and send it your way if you are truly interested. Let me know and I'll get on that sometime this weekend.

For the cost of the steering arms, I couldn't even throw a guess. Of course I didn't pay for my labor and I got the 4140 alloy steel relatively cheap (which is really overkill, 1020 or 1018 would probably be fine).

The above being said, you can purchase high steer arms from a few companies that are already offset for the H1s. I didn't do that for a few reasons.
First, most of the ones that I would have been able to afford all retain the use of the stock cap. If you look closely at the cap you'll see that it has a pretty decent fillet around the edge of the spring retainer before it gets tot he cap bolts. I didn't like the fact that the inside of the arm would have to get radius'd to clear those as in my opinion it makes for a kind of weak setup.
Secondly, most of the arms are only 3/4 or 1" thick and do not have an angle on the end to correct for the proper alignment of the joints. Sure, I could have added it myself, but at the 9degrees it takes to correct the angle the material thickness drops almost 1/4". I didn't feel that 1/2" (starting with 3/4") or 3/4" (starting with 1") was enough. It probably is, but I just didn't want it if I was going to be using a 3/4" bolt. By starting with the 1-1/4" material that I did I was able to retain just over 1" at the end after the corrected angle where the bolt goes through.
Third, I just plain enjoyed making them!

Sorry for the long winded post, I probably have to much thought into it.
Again, let me know if you want me to create quick drawing for you with dimensions and I'll do it.
(For those that don't have any clue what either of us are referring to, go here)

TY for the info. Have been looking for centers now. I got the box of Ballistic Fab brackets from behind my desk and put them out in the shop next to the front this morning. Will not be working on it today but maybe after work. I have a guy from corporate coming in next week so now I have to clean the office.

Ghost · Apr 18, 2009

Out with the old!

In with the old!

Looking weird!

Wow!

bigalpha · Apr 18, 2009

Looks good. Drive it around for a while with them tiny tires.

aparke4 · Apr 19, 2009

damn dood looking good! what ya doing with the old axles? :wave1:

Ghost · Apr 19, 2009

The old axles went with Andy. The progress we made yesterday.

Cutting the spring pad.

Welding the tube to the housing.

Test fitting and tacking the Ballistic Fab brackets.

Tacked and test fitted in the xj.

Dead sexy baby!

Burning it home! I was impressed with the little 175 she only hit her duty cycle once that I remember.

Done! Well sort of.

What brake line are you guys running? The yj line has a bigger banjo bolt then the D60 callipers.

jelrod · Apr 19, 2009

Sooo jealous! Looks good. :thumbup:

emr1101 · Apr 19, 2009

stumpXJ · Apr 19, 2009

Looks tits man, those prefab brackets sure make life easier huh? Thats gonna be a killer set-up.

~James

PacificEd · Apr 19, 2009

Very nice work! Those welds look pretty good (I'd say that Andy has welded before).

I can't wait to see the total package once the tires are on. I guess you will be trimming a lot more of the front fenders.

Good job guys.

ipkyss · Apr 19, 2009

Amazing what axles look like without salt around. I have not found a 60 up here that was not rusted half through, left alone still have paint on it.

Ghost · Apr 19, 2009

I have been very pleased with everything so far. TY for the complaments. Andy is very well versed in welding I'm very lucky to have a friend that is willing to help me like he does. I have been looking into TRE's for steering today and have decided to use the Ford factory 2064 on one side and a left handed rod end that is the same dimensions.

ES2064L 1.00x18tpi 2.735” .808 .773 x .664 4.75”
*ES2011R 1.00x18tpi 2.00” .808 .773 x .664 4.12”

Great info is here on the TRE's.

http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/tierod-id.php

jeepfreak1020 · Apr 20, 2009

lookin great

D60 Install

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