Building a front d44 cost vs value

Yes i have done my research and found many threads on building a front d44 for the XJ.
The part that i have a question on is since i dont have any of the tools needed,, what would a ballpark figure be on the labor alone???

You see,, im at the crossroads of completing a fully built d30. The only thing it needs is a set of chromolys, maybe a truss, and to swap out the aussie for an arb.

All those parts alone are alot of $$ into a HP d30, SO im flirting with the idea to sell the d30 (which is in excellent condition), and build a d44.
SO, paying a shop to clean it up and weld on the hardware to fit it in my XJ would be around $$ (a guess is al i need)?? And do they make adaptors so i can keep my 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern????

Ofcourse then i can figure in the costs for chromolys, an arb, 4.88's, steering & trac.

i think the 44 is a waste because most people go from doing that to wanting d60s

It would help to know how your rig is used? DD, rock crawler, mall crawler, mud runner? Also what size tires you are running? Anything under 35 inch tires makes a 44 a waste of $$, to me.

There have been quite a few opportunities around here to pick up great parts from cheap donor rigs. But listen to silent_bob.

Josh

Depends. I recently blew up the ring gear on my D30 and rather than dump anymore money into (had WJ swap, 4.88s, lockrite, everything only had 6 months on it) I looked around for a D44.

You might be able to find one already built that someone is selling because they want to upgrade or don't need it anymore. I'm getting a HP44 narrowed to waggy width for $1k, all it needs is gears and steering and I'll be done. I couldn't justify even more money into the D30 when I'm at it's very limit.

Senior_XJ said:

SO, paying a shop to clean it up and weld on the hardware to fit it in my XJ would be around $$ (a guess is al i need)??

Click to expand...

I don't have a number for you, but after narrowing and trussing mine, it was a ton of work and took quite some time. I would say it would cost a crap ton to have a shop do it on an hourly rate.

Senior_XJ said:

Yes i have done my research and found many threads on building a front d44 for the XJ.
And do they make adaptors so i can keep my 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern????

Click to expand...

No, if you go to a D44 you will either have a 5x5.5 pattern, or a 6 or 8 lug pattern. The hub is too big for a 4.5 pattern, and would interfere with the rim.

SteadsN4LOW said:

i think the 44 is a waste because most people go from doing that to wanting d60s

Click to expand...

I disagree. I don't think its a waste, and after building my D44, I don't want a D60.

I couldn't justify even more money into the D30 when I'm at it's very limit.
__________________
[SIZE=-2]'92 XJ / 4.0L AW4 NP231 PORC SYE 4.88s / 5.5" RE Coils and 3.5" RE Leaves with 1.5" TNT Boomerangs / TNT Y-Link / D30 Lockright 760x with full circle c-clips / WJ brakes / D44 No-Slip with Exploder Discs / 35x12.5 MTZs on 15x8 Soft 8s / AJs 3/16" Superrails etc etc etc[/SIZE]


35x12.5 MTZs There ya go

I did a low budget D44 build for the front of my 85XJ 4.7L stroker. I love it. I run 35's and got tired of popping axles all the time.

I tend to do my own thinking and design, so I started with the D44 everybody says to stay away from. I have a D44 with the cast wedges. I made the decision to go full widths and have absolutely never regretted it. I modified the Ford radius arms and replaced my long arm design. I figured that it was most important to be able to afford what I had rather than never get it built. I ran and still run stock D44 axles. I carry spares but so far I haven't needed them. The axle version I got already had disk brakes and hubs, so no extra cost there. I took the stock Ford track bar, straightened out some kinks, mounted on the other side of the bracket and welded a coupling nut to screw a heim joint into on the frame side.

I ground down the tops of the radius arms to cant the springs towards the top mount for the springs. It looks a little weird that the springs aren't straight up and down, but actually, as the axle flexes, the springs compress better.

My only complaint is that I don't have quite the flex I used to have. I am making a wristed radius arm for the passenger side to fix this.

My total cost was $1050. This includes the axle housing, two sets of axles, new brakes, new gears, Lockrite, new seals, new 6 degree radius arm bushings, new hubs, and 4 rims. On the rear I already had a D44. In order to match the width and bolt patterns, I scored a used pair of 1" 5x4.5" to 5x5.5" adapters for the rear. The front is a touch wider than the rear but that is not uncommon on many production vehicles.

I have trashed a few MileMarker hubs, but they only take a couple of minutes to replace, and don't keep you from driving your vehicle. The hubs carry a lifetime warranty, so replacement is free.

We do a lot of rock and trails where tip over is a serious risk. The wider stance has helped a lot. I have yet to find a place where the width kept me from making it. Surprisingly to the contrary, the width has helped many times.

Thanks guys for the replys!! It will definately help me out.

Someone asked about my rig,,,its a 95 XJ with 6.5" of lift and a new set of 35" baja claw radials. I have a built ford 8.8 in the rear with an ARB and im orderin 1541 shafts for it within the next 2 weeks.

On a scale of 1 to 10, i mostly run a 5 or 6 trail with my old 33"s & 4.5 lift. Now i have 35"s, 6.5 lift and F & R chromos(soon). i should be able to handle a 7 rated trail and would probably attempt some harder obstacles rather then use a go-around.

Shes IS my daily driver but i dont always drive it and if i do, its not far. Put it thisway, i bought it 4 years ago with 94K, it now has 126K which is 8K a year.

OK, so heres my 2 options right now,,,, my d30 already has 4.88's, an aussie, 1-ton steering, Rock K. trac bar & is armored. The d30 option is to run 4340 chromos 27 splines so its easy to carry stock trail spares and make a custom truss. (would be nice to switch the aussie for an ARB).

My other option is to sell the d30, find a mostly built or better HP d44 and stuff it with an ARB, chromos, 4.88's, hi steer and a custom trac bar, and set it up to fit under my XJ. Unless i can find a TJ rubicon axle and make it work?????

heres my future(long ways away):dana 44 33 spline arb, CTMs, and 33 spline outers with flanges....and ill be running 35-37" tire range

Senior_XJ said:

Unless i can find a TJ rubicon axle and make it work?????

Click to expand...

Waste of money IMO. Yes, has a 44 center section but the rest is just 30 outers. Not much of a benefit over a 30 in my opinion.

I'm kind of in the same situation as you and am prob going to keep my 30. Building a 44 costs a lot of money and isn't a huge upgrade over the 30. I will prob just skip to a 60 if I replace the 30. The only way I would get a 44 is if I can find a built one that someone is selling, cause often times you can get a good deal on those.

My vote would be to keep the 30 unless you can find a good deal on a used 44.

Senior_XJ said:

Someone asked about my rig,,,its a 95 XJ with 6.5" of lift and a new set of 35" baja claw radials. I have a built ford 8.8 in the rear with an ARB and im orderin 1541 shafts for it within the next 2 weeks.

OK, so heres my 2 options right now,,,, my d30 already has 4.88's, an aussie, 1-ton steering, Rock K. trac bar & is armored. The d30 option is to run 4340 chromos 27 splines so its easy to carry stock trail spares and make a custom truss. (would be nice to switch the aussie for an ARB).

Click to expand...

What you are considering isn't easy to answer. One thing, I wouldn't spend a ton more money on the D30, so I wouldn't put in the ARB (wouldn't put selectable in the front, anyway). The chromo shafts are a good upgrade, but if you want to be more assured of not breaking you also need chromo axle joints, which up the cost. For no more than 35's, if you maintain a reasonable driving style, a D30 can last pretty well with chromo shafts and joints. We've run a lot of hardcore trails with D30's set up that way. Yes, you can bend a housing, and yes you can break a gearset, but you also can go a long way without doing either, and you still have your 5 on 4.5 wheel pattern.

If you get a D44, to be stronger than the D30 you must include chromo shafts and joints. I built my D44 for around $2200, but that was a long time ago and I did all the work myself. A ready built D44 is going to cost you, I have no idea how much, but it's got to be in the $3500-4500 range. Call Currie and check on a front 9", they come with D44 or D60 outers for a price comparison.

ChrisRFewell said:

heres my future(long ways away):dana 44 33 spline arb, CTMs, and 33 spline outers with flanges....and ill be running 35-37" tire range

Click to expand...

Where do you get D44 33 spline outers and flanges? Really, that's not a bad way to go. The D44 center section is plenty strong, and so are the 33 spline axles......most likely as strong or stronger than the D44 CTM's. Can you buy a 33 spline ARB direct?

I spent $2000 easy on mine. I broke it twice before going to cromos. I run a 36 IROK abnd dual tcases. Goat is right about the cost to build one. I built mine 2 years ago. I am now going to 60's.

everybody likes to look at numbers, but there comes a time to put down some real world testing. yes a D44 is limited to 19spline outers, and same size u-joints.

that said ive been beating on my spooled, 5:13 geared, waggy 44 with stock shafts for months with no problems. granted there aren't any rocks around here. but for trails, hill climbs, and some mud its done me great. i can definately say if i was still on the dana30 stuff would have popped.

Ghost said:

I spent $2000 easy on mine. I broke it twice before going to cromos. I run a 36 IROK abnd dual tcases. Goat is right about the cost to build one. I built mine 2 years ago. I am now going to 60's.

Click to expand...

Hmmmm,, are ya gonna sell that d44 anytime soon??

Goatman said:

What you are considering isn't easy to answer. One thing, I wouldn't spend a ton more money on the D30, so I wouldn't put in the ARB (wouldn't put selectable in the front, anyway). The chromo shafts are a good upgrade, but if you want to be more assured of not breaking you also need chromo axle joints, which up the cost. For no more than 35's, if you maintain a reasonable driving style, a D30 can last pretty well with chromo shafts and joints. We've run a lot of hardcore trails with D30's set up that way. Yes, you can bend a housing, and yes you can break a gearset, but you also can go a long way without doing either, and you still have your 5 on 4.5 wheel pattern.

If you get a D44, to be stronger than the D30 you must include chromo shafts and joints. I built my D44 for around $2200, but that was a long time ago and I did all the work myself. A ready built D44 is going to cost you, I have no idea how much, but it's got to be in the $3500-4500 range. Call Currie and check on a front 9", they come with D44 or D60 outers for a price comparison.

Click to expand...

Im pretty sure that im gonna get a set of chromos and just weld on some more steel.(no ARB, too much $$). Id love to have a HP d44/super 8.8 setup but i think ill give the chromos a try and see how they hold up!!

Thanks guys,,,, plenty of good info and opinions, and thats what i really wanted out of this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You guys :guitar: !!

Senior_XJ said:

Hmmmm,, are ya gonna sell that d44 anytime soon??

Click to expand...

It was sold to the guy that helped me put it under my jeep. He wanted first dibs on it.

Goatman said:

Where do you get D44 33 spline outers and flanges? Really, that's not a bad way to go. The D44 center section is plenty strong, and so are the 33 spline axles......most likely as strong or stronger than the D44 CTM's. Can you buy a 33 spline ARB direct?

Click to expand...

dutchman racing will custom make the 33 spline outers and i will find the flanges for you.

Edit: I couldnt find the flange but I may have to find a way to make custom spindles and flanges....I will figure it out or i will find where i saw them.

What do you mean buy 33 spine ARB direct? directly from ARB? no you have to go trough a dealer. you can buy a 35 spline arb for a dana 44 too but that is a bit much for the front IMO

ChrisRFewell said:

dutchman racing will custom make the 33 spline outers and i will find the flanges for you.

Edit: I couldnt find the flange but I may have to find a way to make custom spindles and flanges....I will figure it out or i will find where i saw them.

What do you mean buy 33 spine ARB direct? directly from ARB? no you have to go trough a dealer. you can buy a 35 spline arb for a dana 44 too but that is a bit much for the front IMO

Click to expand...

I like the idea of the 33 spline outers but not at the expense of custom built spindles and hubs or flanges. Your talking about getting into some serious cash when building one off stuff like that. Not to mention also figuring out what bearings you are going to be going to and all that since the stock 44 outer stuff will no longer fit. Seems like there would be much cheaper options.

But I still think you should do it.:thumbup: