what i thought was death wobble

everytime i hit a bump i felt as if everything was about to go underneath and then sometimes i got the impression that it was a shock but because i change them over last summer, i didnt see the chance.

any how since i brought them i was gonna put new joints on the axel and after many attemps i finally put the other front wheel back on to stop the axel from turning and with a cheater bar it came loose. what a rellief.

i could not for the life of me get the hub off though please somebody help i had to reasemble everything cause the hub would not come off.
but on the good side of things as i had everything off i noticed that on the passenger side the shock at the bottom was disconnected and the screws was no where to be found

what the hell? any ideas?
that should describe my death wobble right?
i put two bolts in there hope it holds. any feed back greatly appreciated

Undo the three 13mm bolts on the back side of the hub. Then thread the bolts back on, so that you have atleast 5 good turns on each. Then put a socket back on and give the socket a firm but gentle smack. If not try placing a wrench between the hub and the lower control arm and turn the steering wheel towards the wrench.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Shocks control the return rate of the springs, so a disconnected shock on one side would give you some interesting motions after hitting bumps.

Is your XJ lifted?

alright I connected the shock back on with some 8.8 grade bolts about the same size or little bugger then the oringinals, i thought the shock was broke be cause i couldnt connect it to the bottom at all it was hanging from the top but when i lowered the jack with the wheel on it, then i was able to but bolts to it. hopefully it holds.

i like that hub idea but i just need a little but more details before i try it after removing the hub back 3 bolts. I have to screw them in a little, and put a socket on all of them one at a time and hit them? If so what space? its a little room back there but i dont think its enough to start smacking screws lol. let me know though and the wrench thing im lost? is there any special tools i might can get?

and no im not lifted regular stock

Do this - http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm. Use a bolt or a deep socket.

look at it this way your using the axle tube to press the hub out. wedge a socket or something between one of the screws on the back of the hub and the big C that holds the knuckle on and turn the wheel to press the hub out. theres pix of this process somewhere, i saw them the other day ill see if i can find them

i have also had good luck with hitting around the wheel mounting surface with a rubber mallet to get things moving

if you can find the pics that would be great cause this is hard
it feels stuck i tried prying it where the bolts go in but a no go so far

does your steering wheel shake when hitting a bump? if so, steering stabilizer needs to be replaced.

Jeepcherokeeboy97 said:

does your steering wheel shake when hitting a bump? if so, steering stabilizer needs to be replaced.

Click to expand...

im sure most everyone here will agree that that would just mask an existing problem

BFH hit the sides of where the studs are all around and you will see it start to budge...

Death wobble is a dynamic instability of the suspension system. The system as designed and new is stable. Something has to change to allow energy to be stored then released back again. This is normally caused by looseness in one or more connections between steering components. Tires are one of the places energy is stored, but it is extremely rare for tires to be the cause.

I have helped troubleshoot many DW jeeps. Normally it comes down to a combination of worn out components. Most common are control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and worn joints on the trackbar.

Steering stabilizers and shocks are there to dampen instabilities, but the instabilities they are designed to cancel are extremely minor. These dampers can help keep the oscillations from starting, but they are not a cure, only a temporary bandaid. The best and safest solution it to address the underlying problem(s).

I have a technique that has always worked for me. Have somebody get in the vehicle and rock the steering wheel back and forth just to the point where resistance is felt. In otherwords, just rock the wheel back and forth in the slop of the steering.

Now while that is happening, crawl under the rig and place your hand on each of the joints, one at a time. If you feel movement fix the joint. So check the tierod ends, the ends of the track bar, the ends of the drag link, the ends of the control arms, and the upper and lower ball joints.

old_man said:

Death wobble is a dynamic instability of the suspension system. The system as designed and new is stable. Something has to change to allow energy to be stored then released back again. This is normally caused by looseness in one or more connections between steering components. Tires are one of the places energy is stored, but it is extremely rare for tires to be the cause.

I have helped troubleshoot many DW jeeps. Normally it comes down to a combination of worn out components. Most common are control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and worn joints on the trackbar.

Steering stabilizers and shocks are there to dampen instabilities, but the instabilities they are designed to cancel are extremely minor. These dampers can help keep the oscillations from starting, but they are not a cure, only a temporary bandaid. The best and safest solution it to address the underlying problem(s).

I have a technique that has always worked for me. Have somebody get in the vehicle and rock the steering wheel back and forth just to the point where resistance is felt. In otherwords, just rock the wheel back and forth in the slop of the steering.

Now while that is happening, crawl under the rig and place your hand on each of the joints, one at a time. If you feel movement fix the joint. So check the tierod ends, the ends of the track bar, the ends of the drag link, the ends of the control arms, and the upper and lower ball joints.

Click to expand...

Experience one of the most valuable tools anyone can have

here's a question for all of the experts on steering and suspension am i supposed to perform these test with the car on? and if so should i raise it? very scary to be under the car when its on as a matter of fact i thought i wasnt supposed to crawl under when its on.

A little undate after attaching the shock its definately not death wobble but something is in need of some serios attention and i dont wanna replace the wrong stuff

i replaced the whole exhaust system except the manifolds, i did the O2 sensor today and it runs alot smother but as i reach high speeds its starts to shake/ vibrate like crazy i feel like something is gonna wiggle loose i.e thats probably how my front shock wiggled loose there was not a bolt in sight. the balljoints look like there over packed with grease in my opinion or if its not grease it alot of dirt.

is engine mounts outta the equation?
i think im definately gonna go with TRE the one coming from the pitnum and the wheels right?

any more info on this hub pics gratly appreciated something i can undestand cause some of these pics are not reconizable the whole putting a nut on a screw thing and turning the steering wheel? My steering doesnt turn unless the car is on so what am i suppose to do start the car with all that stuff off.

and someone please help me im getting nervous about the vacuum on my axels in back the differential. do i have to disconnect something with that vacuum to change the u-joint on that side since i got the u-joints already i might as well eliminate it as a possibility right?

and does any one know where to get the driveshaft straps for the u-joints a part number something cause i need them for the drive shaft u-joints?

thanks guys for all the imput

Okay brother, check this out.

You have three 13mm bolts, that require the 12 point sockets, holding your hub on. They a positioned at approx. 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock, and 8 o'clock. Get a spare 13mm socket, PB Blaster, and a heavy hammer.

• Jack up one side of the axle, leaving the other side on the ground. This way you do not need to drain the diff.
• Remove the tire.
• Remove brake caliper.(2 bolts) Secure it to your lower control arm with a metal coat hanger. You do not need to disconnect the hose, but please do not let your caliper hang from the hose.
• Remove rotor
• You should now notice a seam between your dust shield and the hub assembly. As well as the thread ends of the 3 bolts facing you. PB Blaster the chit out of the seam and the bolts.
• Remove the three 13mm, 12 point bolts, behind the hub assembly.
• Shoot some PB in the bolt holes.
• Rethread, half way, the bolt positioned in the 8 o'clock position for the driver's side and/or the 4 o'clock on the passenger's side.
• Place your spare disposible 13mm socket on the bolt and gently but firmly smack it with a heavy hammer. Feel free to give it a few good wacks.

That does it 99% of the time. Let us know if it worked and keep us posted. Good luck.
Oh gezz, I almost forgot. depending on which model front axle you have you might need to remove your 4X4 selector/engaging unit, located on the axle tube, between your diff and your passenger side hub. Please note the position of the shaft and the selector fork when you disasemble, so that you can place it back properly.
Good luck again and have fun....