please help with exhaust

i have a 88 xj 4.0 l inline 6

today i brought a exhaust pipe (manifold to cat) its a walker part#44320, question: it came with little dents in both ends is this normal the part store said it how it goes? beats me! I also got the muffler its a Defender heavy duty muffler look like the oringinal though part #27624 the catalytic converter its a maremont part # 29135 and the tail pipe its a walker part # 45944
and the oxygen sensor (damn just look at the part its a map sensor) damn another trip to the part store tomorrow.

sorry for the detail in parts just wanna be sure i got the good stuff or ok stuff

questions:

everything looks pretty straight forward do i have to weld anything the cat looks like direst fit (it better be i paid $130)
only 26 for the muffler though
the pipes cost more that the muffler by a couple dollars.

anything i should get other than the right sensor?
to make the job easier? can i reuse bolts, etc.
also the tail pipe to muffler end looks a little long not sure though fits right in muffler am i suppose to cut that end down a bit?

thanks in advance guys

I can answer the dents for you. The dents are only found on earlier xj's.

The one by the manifold is to clear the universal joint on the front drive shaft, if you have 4wd. The dent by the cat is to clear the cross member.

ok thanks is it a hard job?

use a lot of pb blaster

thanks i guess this is as easy as it looks huh? lol thanks for the help!
its greatly appreciated!

yea the hardest part is going to be getting the bolts off the collector where it meets the exhaust pipe. i did my exhaust manifold last weekend and i had to break out the cutoff wheel to get the bolts off. just go to home depot and get some bolts.

Most of the ubolts will break off when you try to wrench them. Plan on new. Sawzall is your best friend on removing the old system. No point in PB blaser, except if you have studs at the front end.

ok thanks i will start tomorrow and let u kno how it goes thanks

Hey it seems pretty much like the exhaust system was welded together i dont have any cutting tools thats electric only a big saw doesnt seem to be doing much

should i take it to a shop?

how much is labor for this?

take it out and install?

Hack saw, or rent a sawzall. Don't give up now dude. You can buy a brand new sawzall and still save money. And then you have the tool you'll need to chop the top later. Seriously though, spend the money to buy the tools. XJ is easy to learn on and you'll feel like you accomplished something good. I always figured that if it screwed up later on, at least I knew who to blame.

wow i so wish i seen this post before i went shop.
so inspiring seriously, sometimes u need a pep talk or two.
but between the exhaust and the u-joints i had to buy for the jeep
I didnt really want to spend any more on a mistake i made with the saw

question: i got it done in a muffler shop and they cut everything off and put in the new stuff there was a hanger right nect to my tranny mount when they cut off the cat and muffler the mount went with it except the bushy portion they left that there welded it to the top and stuck a hook through it and welded that side to the catalytic converter's flange(if thats the correct term.) they welded on the hangers to the pipe looks like everything feels secure just got it done and drove it home when i parked it i noticed a funny smell and a little smoke coming from the muffler/cat area. kinda smells like somethings burning. Also where the cat and mufller meet? the pipe area is black is this normal it didnt come like that is it suppose to heat like that? scared and curious please somebody help me!

PS: I payed 100 bucks for them to take it out and put it back

The exhaust will smell like it's burning for a while, especially with a new cat. It sounds like everything will be cool. Unless you're getting custom pipes bent though, the stock stuff is a breeze, especially on something with ground clearance like a XJ. Try hooking up with someone through your local chapter. We all had to learn the hard way, but a little experience goes a long way. What's your next project? Brakes, tune up? Just take your time and ask questions.

winterbeater said:

The exhaust will smell like it's burning for a while, especially with a new cat. It sounds like everything will be cool. Unless you're getting custom pipes bent though, the stock stuff is a breeze, especially on something with ground clearance like a XJ. Try hooking up with someone through your local chapter. We all had to learn the hard way, but a little experience goes a long way. What's your next project? Brakes, tune up? Just take your time and ask questions.

Click to expand...

local chapter? whats that?

but on my next project will be the u-joints all of them if i can!

first time i had to change my rotors in the front i thought i had to take off the axel nut and i broke about 3 breaker bars tryna take that nut off and never got it off. lol a machanic walk by and ask what i was tryna do i said take off the rotor he bent down and slid the $#!^ right off. lol i wanted to die. lol but i am a little worried about that nut now cause i know i have to take it off. How do i do it? its the axel nut i want to change the whell joints on both sides, i have a 12v power tool 150 torque will that do it or is there some type of trick to it, i heard something about having it in 4WD mode or something like that. but i also have to change the ones on the driveshaft any advice? I have a harbor frieght u-joint tool im hoping it will prove itself. theres 2 u-joints in the front drive shaft together, think its call a carbon joint.

to be honest i have no clue on how im gonna pull this off but ill want to do it. any write-ups, will help but any way thanks for reading this long story
greatly appreciated

keep the tires on and the jeep on the ground when you go to loosen the axle nut. btw did you pull the cotter pin out last time when you tried to do it? get a 1/2" drive breaker bar and use a cheater bar (long pipe) slide over the breaker bar if needed. driveshaft u-joints are easy enough. Ya also check with your local chapter. I would assume you are in the north Atlantic chapter. on the forum page scroll down and you will see the different chapters.

The axle nut is supposed to be 175 ft. lbs. Sometimes people don't torque them back up tight enough and the front wheel bearing fails. IMPORTANT!

thanks now i understand the chapter stuff.

and yes last time i did take the cottor pin and spindle nut out but the axel shaft didnt want to come off

so i should take off wheel, brakes, caliper, rotor and then put wheel back on lower it then try to loosen it? or dont take nothing of and take the cap of the wheel and take the pin and spindle nut thenn try to get the axel nut

also i have 150 torque electric impact wrench can i use that to lossen the axel nut and to tighten it back up then use the torque the rest of the way.

on the back side of the knuckle there are 3 bolts that look funny. they are 12 point bolts requiring 12 pt. socket uh 13mm if i remember correctly. take those out and your hub bearing will be free minus the fact that it will be stuck at this point take a hammer or small sledge and tap the part that has the studs from all angles you might need to wack it too. try wiggling it out if it wont try to get a chisel or the like and go from all angles prying it away from the knuckle use hammer if needs be. it'll come and when it does so will the axle shaft