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leaking transfer case

thompson97

NAXJA Forum User
Location
harrisonburg, va
i noticed a strange grinding noise, something akin to the brake pads constantly rubbing the discs. i went to investigate the possibilities and found that i had a leaking transfer case. i'm still not sure if thats whats making the noise, as i don't want to drive it until i can make sure there is enough fluid. anyway, those tranfer case plugs are pain to remove with an adjustable wrench. my sockets only go up to 20 mm. what should i use to get that sucker off to check the fluid level. also, how difficult will it be to re-seal the output shaft section? would this be an inexpensive fix to let a shop handle quickly? thanks in advance.
 
If the grinding is coming from the t-case, that’s really bad. Mine started making a grinding noise right before the chain came through the side of the case. T-case was toast, not one useable part in it. The output seal is relitavely easy to change and can even be done on the vehicle with minimal mechanical ability. If a shop charges you more than an hour labor, you're geting hosed.
 
My 231 used to leak(like everything else) on my 94. The kid I work with who drives a WJ said I should get a new output seal. I did ($10) and It still leaks but from somewhere else and not as much. I use my 30mm GM front hub socket to loosen/tighten plug.
 
Check the breather vent also, it may be stopped up, its close to the shifter lever near the top. That could cause more oil leakage too. I find a 1 3/16" socket also works on the drain / fill plugs. Good Luck and Happy Wheelin`!
 
is it leaking at the case split, where the two sides come together? You will need to split the case and use something reseal it. I just silcone which worked great. Did it two years ago, along with a seal on the front output, no leaks. But it should take more than an hour for a shop to do. Juice
 
A little trick to get rear seal to stop leaking is to get high temp rtv (usually orange) and put a little bit on the collar of the seal. Insert seal with gentle hammering (2 inch muffler pipe works nice for an even distribution of force) and allow rtv to set (about 25 min works) This only works if leak is from the bottom of the collar on the seal. If its leaking at the slip yolk (where rubber contacts driveshaft) you need a new seal.
 
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