shift lock and steering lock not working

I recently lent my XJ to a friend of mine for about 3 hours so that he could run some errands. I think he broke something while he had it. The steering no longer locks in place when i remove the key and the shifter can be moved to all positions whether the key is in the column or not. It also seems to me that the key releases from the column prematurely (I mean it doesn't seem to have to come all the way back to release). The jeep still steers and shifts fine, it just won't lock. Any ideas what got broken? And if this is an obvious problem, what is required to fix it?


Thanks,

ECGTECH

Be careful about the key coming out in the wrong position. I killed one battery that way. After I took out my cylinder twice and lubed it up good, it seems to work better. But in your case, even if you are careful about turning the key to the off position, the steering and shifter don't lock up? What year? The lock systems are different.

Auto with console shift?

There is a Park-Lock cable and bracket the runs from the key lock cylinder down the steering column and the bracket is held to the ignition switch bracket with one nut and it then runs on to the console.

I would check the key lock cylinder as the wheel is not locking, and that may be effecting operation of the Park-Lock cable. Those brackets tend to work loose from the ignition switch bracket, but that shouldn't effect the wheel locking, but I would install a lock washer or nylok nut--8mm I think.

update,
i lent my xj to the same friend again last night. I love this guy, but he won't be driving my jeep ever again. after getting it back from him, the problem mentioned above is worse. Now it is really hard to turn the key to start the jeep and once the jeep is running i can completely remove the key and it continues to run as normal. In order to turn the car off, i have to turn the lock cylinder all the way past "lock" with the key in it and then wiggle the key loose. I don't know where to start on this so any advice is welcome.

Who needs enemies...

ECGTECH

If this is the '89 in your profile, there is a rod mechanism that runs from the key location to the switch location at the base of the steering wheel. This can get out of adjustment. Time to pull the covers off and take a look.

Yes, I am referring to the '89 in my profile, sorry for not saying so sooner. Is there a decent write up of how to do this adjustment in the Haynes manual or somewhere on here? I want to get this taken care of soon because i don't want to loose the battery.

Thanks,

ECGTECH

I'm sure you can find it in the manual. You're right, a couple times of that discharging deeply/recharge can kill a battery. I'd try searching "ignition key" too.

The writeup in Haynes and Chilton is OK, but doesn't discuss the interlock cable at all. I had the same problem, and what happens is not related to the rod moving the ignition switch, but a different cable on the left side of the column that routes down to the shifter on the right side of the pair. It's a shift interlock to keep things locked up when in park.

You will need to find out why the key cylinder is not indexed and functioning properly, and that will mean tearing down the column. You'll need a steering wheel puller and a lock plate spring depresser, which can be rented for free from a parts house. There are posts here with pictures to show all about it.

AT THE WORSE, you can disconnect the interlock cable at the shifter and avoid the whole mess. Mine has worked just fine for years like that. The Neutral Safety Switch won't let you start in Drive anyway. It's another brilliant piece of Toledo engineering I've yet to understand.

i don't really mind not being able to lock the wheel or shifter, what I mind is the fact that my jeep can now be started without the key. I'll look into Haynes and start tearing into things. any more ideas are welcome

ECGTECH

Your key coming out of the lock cylinder in any position other than "Lock" is a fairly good indication that the lock cylinder is worn out. Usually $50 installed by a locksmith in my local area, and they do it without pulling the wheel.

Joe Peters,
if the lock core is worn out, then is it possible that it is not allowing the park/lock cable to engage because the lock core never truly gets to the lock position? If so, this would explain both issues. Thanks to everyone for all their help.

Replacing the cylinder without pulling the steering wheel is highly improbable on a Cherokee, especially one with the GM style column. The key cylinder is held in with a torx screw that can only be accessed by parts removal. If the locksmith is leaving the shell of the cylinder in, he's not addressing the timing with the ignition switch, just recoring the cylinder with new, and only fixing half the problem.

The timing of the cable, rod, and ignition switch is done with a good working cylinder being held in the correct postion, and the ignition switch moved on the oblong holes to the correct place and tightened down with the mounting screws. Until then, things are probably out of phase and rattling around.