crank pulley bolt

lsc910 · Mar 30, 2009

Here's the deal, I went out side to change the belt due to some squeaks and squeals and low and be hold the rubber on the balancer is pushing out. My question is , how are you to break the center bolt loose. I tried to put some bolts in the balancer and place a pry bar between them then break the bolt loose but I just bent the crap out of the two bolts I was prying on. Hopefully someone has had this problem and can explain to me how to get it out without air tools. Thanks in advance, Nick.

Pelican · Mar 30, 2009

People use various methods. The easiest I found was with a strap wrench around the balancer with a cheater braced against whatever. Useful tool to have around -- several years ago they were ~$20 for a pack of two (two sizes) at Lowes or similar.

lsc910 · Mar 30, 2009

Hopefully you are talking about a plumbing strap wrench because I have one of those in my tool box for work. The pack you are talking about has a yellow handled one along with a blue , correct.

joe_peters · Mar 30, 2009

Plumbing, opening jars, controlling grandkids, a very useful tool.

5-90 · Mar 30, 2009

Yeah - the best "strap wrench" has a serrated foot on the business end, and a Nylon strap. I have one.

Not to be confused with a "chain wrench" - useful in some plumbing jobs and some industrial goodies, but uses a chain instead of a Nylon strap.

And, when grandkids are still small, I have found it's just easier to coat the palm of your hand with rubber cement and snag them as they go by...:shhh:

Pelican · Mar 30, 2009

I think mine happen to be the Kobalt brand with both blue handles, but yes, I am talking about a plumbing strap wrench. I was afraid the wrench wouldn't be able to handle the torque and would break but at least it worked for me. Actually I got the hint from a forum member in a post years ago.

Worth a try.

lsc910 · Mar 30, 2009

Thanks for the info. I went out to the garage grabbed the strap wrench and a 2foot ratchet and you were right ,it took a little persuading but it broke loose and now I just need to pic up the balancer in the morning and install it. Thanks for all of your help, it was greatly appreciated.

Pelican · Mar 30, 2009

Yeah, I've used those big suckers with the three or four foot handles and chains in the oil field more years ago than I like to think about. From some of the stories that show up on the forum about the trials and tribulations in getting the crank bolt out, one of those might actually come in handy provided there was some way to get it in there.

joe_peters · Mar 30, 2009

They make the chain wrench in smaller sizes too.

5-90 · Mar 30, 2009

joe_peters said:
They make the chain wrench in smaller sizes too.

I know - but I don't like the idea of using a chain wrench because you might bugger up the pully sheaves.

Yeah, he's throwing it away - but it's not a terribly good habit to get into. You can always move up to the chain wrench later...

TiRod · Mar 30, 2009

The crank pulley bolt is too short to start the balancer. Take the bolt with you to a good bolt shop and get one an inch longer. Start the pulley on with it, then swap out for the short factory one to finish.

I did that because there just isn't room to use a dead blow hammer, and didn't have a better idea - but it worked.

5-90 · Mar 30, 2009

TiRod said:
The crank pulley bolt is too short to start the balancer. Take the bolt with you to a good bolt shop and get one an inch longer. Start the pulley on with it, then swap out for the short factory one to finish.

I did that because there just isn't room to use a dead blow hammer, and didn't have a better idea - but it worked.

You did it right - DO NOT! use a hammer to install the harmonic damper! Quickest way to wreck one I can think of....

The screw is threaded 1/2"-20. Grease (or apply never-seez) to the crankshaft snout, and put a couple of greased flat washers under the head of the screw you're starting with (it helps.) Don't forget to replace the flat washers with the thick hardened washer that came off OEM, dip the threads of the screw in clean engine oil, and torque to 80 pound-feet.

Oh - and it's always a good idea to replace the FMS while you're there. It only adds a couple minutes to the job, and if it's old it usually gets wrecked anyhow (and you end up kicking yourself good and hard for not replacing it when you were there anyhow.) Grease the outside of the HD snout so you don't scuff the seal, and pack the backside of the seal with grease (so you don't lost the garter spring...)

superdave · Apr 27, 2009

5-90 said:
You did it right - DO NOT! use a hammer to install the harmonic damper! Quickest way to wreck one I can think of....

The screw is threaded 1/2"-20. Grease (or apply never-seez) to the crankshaft snout, and put a couple of greased flat washers under the head of the screw you're starting with (it helps.) Don't forget to replace the flat washers with the thick hardened washer that came off OEM, dip the threads of the screw in clean engine oil, and torque to 80 pound-feet.

Oh - and it's always a good idea to replace the FMS while you're there. It only adds a couple minutes to the job, and if it's old it usually gets wrecked anyhow (and you end up kicking yourself good and hard for not replacing it when you were there anyhow.) Grease the outside of the HD snout so you don't scuff the seal, and pack the backside of the seal with grease (so you don't lost the garter spring...)

Is this for all 4.0 engines? Sorry to jack the thread but I have buggered the threads on my 91 4.0 and need to fix the threads. I was thinking it was metric.

XJ Stryker · Apr 27, 2009

I found a easier way. I tapped it in place with a RUBBER mallet and got a thinner washer and used the original bolt. Once it got close I changed out to the extra thick washer and bolted it on. 80 FT lbs

Pelican · Apr 27, 2009

Not metric. I buggered mine the first time around. Chased with a 1/2-20 tap.

5-90 · Apr 27, 2009

superdave said:
Is this for all 4.0 engines? Sorry to jack the thread but I have buggered the threads on my 91 4.0 and need to fix the threads. I was thinking it was metric.

I think so. I did one recently on, oh, I think it was a 1995 or 1996 and used 1/2"-20 there as well (they're in my kit.)

crank pulley bolt

lsc910

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Pelican

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lsc910

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