• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

UBolt eliminators

SPXJ

SPXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
El Cajon, CA
Is anyone using the UBolt Eliminator (UBE) Kit from T&T Customs / Treks off road?
I'm getting ready to do an 8.8 conversion and I'm looking at all options.
 
not worth it imo

i would just run some antiwrap spring perches.
 
I would buy them Just because you can get them in different hieghts, not to mention it comes with a bump stop pad.

However, I'd still give Dan at ruff stuff a call and get a simple swap kit.
 
I run UBE, I love em. No experience w/ antiwrap perches.
 
I am just finishing the build on my 99 XJ and used the ube's from TnT. I put their 5.5 y-link on it and with the shock mounts on my 8.8 their is nothing hanging down under the axle tubes. Real clean set up.
 
I used em on my D44 to gain an extra .5" of lift without using a block.

Not sure they're worth the money, but they come with shock mounts and bumpstop plates.

It is, however, a clean setup.
 
xjjeeper19 said:
I would buy them Just because you can get them in different hieghts, not to mention it comes with a bump stop pad.

However, I'd still give Dan at ruff stuff a call and get a simple swap kit.
Click to expand...

That's why I'm looking at the UBE's, I want to go with a 1" taller and I like the bump stop pad.

I'v purchased other builder parts from Ruff Stuff......all good.
 
SPXJ said:
Is anyone using the UBolt Eliminator (UBE) Kit from T&T Customs / Treks off road?
I'm getting ready to do an 8.8 conversion and I'm looking at all options.
Click to expand...


Love mine. The bump stops work great and They hold better than a u-bolt in my opinion. I have had them on for 6 months and the grade 8 bolts don't loosen up like u-bolts. Plus it is a clean setup. I hate having to find or order a u-bolt when needed, but I can always get a grade 8 bolt. I am also running front and rear TNT trusses, I tend to be hard on equipment.
 
Last edited:
i'm pretty sure the 9/16" of ground clearance lost with u bolts is a non issue for everyone running u bolts.

The built in lift with the tnt eliminators is just as bad as a lift block, it puts the same stresses on your leaf spring, it's just built into the leaf perch.

the bumpstop plates however are great to have, but also can be made using a drill and a couple pieces of steel, or you can just weld a plate to your stock spring plate.

here are the ruffstuff antiwrap spring perches I run
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/spring-perches-p-157.html
 
I too am having a hard time deciding which way to go with my 44 swap. The UBE's are, what, $139 and the Ruff Stuff axle swap kit is $120. Now, if the RS kit is worth the money why wouldn't the UBE kit be worth the money?

In our case, it's not just as simple as $40 for perches and your done.
 
ktm racer 419 said:
The built in lift with the tnt eliminators is just as bad as a lift block, it puts the same stresses on your leaf spring, it's just built into the leaf perch.
Click to expand...

I understand where you are coming from, but I disagree. The perches are welded in, so there is no chance of them being spit out like a block. Also they are longer than the regular perches, which helps combat spring wrap (maybe just offset the amount that was increased by lifting?).

I can tell you before I put mine in I broke 2 driveline u-joints due to axlewrap with my RE 5.5hd springs and 33's. I have not broke a joint since (2-3 years?)

For me, they are working... that's all I know.
 
jrowell said:
I understand where you are coming from, but I disagree. The perches are welded in, so there is no chance of them being spit out like a block. Also they are longer than the regular perches, which helps combat spring wrap (maybe just offset the amount that was increased by lifting?).

I can tell you before I put mine in I broke 2 driveline u-joints due to axlewrap with my RE 5.5hd springs and 33's. I have not broke a joint since (2-3 years?)

For me, they are working... that's all I know.
Click to expand...

so its like a taller antiwrap spring perch

ive just heard people make the argument "its better than blocks and doesn't give you axle wrap because its one piece" so i just threw that in there. whether it's attatched to the spring perch or not a block puts added leverage on leaf springs
 
I'm doing UBE's in the 1.0" flavor. Once I figured out the price isn't that bad in complarison.
 
I'm not running a truss.

1. I like the fact that I was able to go with a flatter spring, and keep the ride height the same to get more flex.
2. Moved the shock mounts up to the center of the axle.
3. Was able to get an easy 1.5" more stretch out back.

I don't think anyone actually would get the UBE for just the 9/16" of clearance gained by not having ubolts.
 
razdrvr said:
I'm not running a truss.

1. I like the fact that I was able to go with a flatter spring, and keep the ride height the same to get more flex.
2. Moved the shock mounts up to the center of the axle.
3. Was able to get an easy 1.5" more stretch out back.

I don't think anyone actually would get the UBE for just the 9/16" of clearance gained by not having ubolts.
Click to expand...

Some questions. I have the 1.5" UBEs. How do you installed them for the 1.5" stretch AND set the pinion angle perfectly? I need step by step as I've never done UBEs just perches and I've always used shims to set pinion angle.

Would hate to kill my u-joints frequently and not have the pinion done right. How do you measure the pinion angle accurately and do you have to have the weight on the tires to get the correct angle measurement? I also have shock relocation tabs from Treks to go on with the UBEs and want to make sure everything is perfect. I will have 7.5" rear lift and 8.5" front coils which should sag with the winch and heavy bumpers. Coils are 260lbs/in and thicker front swaybar with stock rear swaybar.

On a side note, does anyone know what the length of Treks Y-link LCA is supposed to be from the factory?
 
vagrant said:
Some questions. I have the 1.5" UBEs. How do you installed them for the 1.5" stretch AND set the pinion angle perfectly? I need step by step as I've never done UBEs just perches and I've always used shims to set pinion angle.

Would hate to kill my u-joints frequently and not have the pinion done right. How do you measure the pinion angle accurately and do you have to have the weight on the tires to get the correct angle measurement? I also have shock relocation tabs from Treks to go on with the UBEs and want to make sure everything is perfect. I will have 7.5" rear lift and 8.5" front coils which should sag with the winch and heavy bumpers. Coils are 260lbs/in and thicker front swaybar with stock rear swaybar.

On a side note, does anyone know what the length of Treks Y-link LCA is supposed to be from the factory?
Click to expand...


Easy as pie.....

He's referring to the 1.5" extra shretch in his shocks by relocating them upward to the center, thats all.

When you order your UBE's, you order them in the flavor your looking for ie; .5", 1.0", 1.5" etc. The pinion angle in set prior to welding them up on the axle housing. Nothing more! Just weld them per the instructions, so they're properly installed for strength.

When you buy the kit, it comes with everything you need including the shock relocation tabs. I prefer mine to be set at a ^ you gain more travel this way with longet shocks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

X
FAST EFI Retrofit
Replies
6
Views
1K
XJ-Mayhem
X
T
CavFab adjustable trackbar (UTA) + bracket
Replies
1
Views
205
RCP Phx
R
E
Steering Redo.... Questions before I dive in.
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
RCP Phx
R
T
1 Ton steering clearance issues
Replies
9
Views
854
XJChang
X
M
NP 231 input shaft
Replies
3
Views
2K
RCP Phx
R
Back
Top