• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

carrier bearings

I usually destroy the shims along with the bearing when removing it. Well maybe not usually but it's a 50/50 shot.
 
im getting a shop to do it b/c i dont have a press.

can they just use the same size shim or will they have to re-do everything?

how bad is it for my diff to run on one bad bearing?
 
If you change the bearings there is a good chance they may be machined with a little different tolerances. My recommendation, Buy 4 bearings, hone out the center on two so they slip on and off then reuse your existing shims if they are not destroyed or use new one but measure them accuratly and make new packs that are the same then see how the mesh and measure the backlash and check the tooth pattern. Tooth pattern is not a big deal as you arnt changing the pinion depth but the pattern will change a little if the bearings throw the carrier one way or another if they are off but assuming they are machined identical (you always replace in pairs to make sure they are identical)) they should not throw the carrier one way or another and as long as you use identical spring packs you should be good. BUT ALWAYS check the backlash and tooth pattern before final assembly
 
i would try my best not to drive it with that blown carrier bearing. i had one go out in my d35 in the rear and it destroyed the lsd back there, so now i just have open diffs front and rear. yay.
 
kndrewa said:
i would try my best not to drive it with that blown carrier bearing. i had one go out in my d35 in the rear and it destroyed the lsd back there, so now i just have open diffs front and rear. yay.
Click to expand...

its not "blown" the bearings are just rough and a friend recomended i replace it

if there just rough does it need replacing?
 
It will.

I've done this in my 89 Limited - just cut the old bearings off with a Dremel (keep a clean rag over the rest of the thing, to keep metal filings out,) rinse with brake or carburettor cleaner, and tap the new bearings on. Reused the old preload shims, and haven't had a problem.

5-90
 
I just re-used everything and had no problems. Bearings are manufactured to much higher tolerances than axle housings.

Do yourself a favor and replace both. It'll cost you like $15 more and you won't have to do this ever again, instead of in two months when the other one goes.
 
we have a winner for the best suggestion so far... 5-90.
and just to add to it. don't cut all the way through the bearing but about 80%. then take a hammer and chisel and smack it right in the crack. if you do it right you'll hear a "kink" sound and the bearing will tap right off.
when hammering on the new bearings, do not hammer against the the cage and make sure of that.
5-90 said:
It will.

I've done this in my 89 Limited - just cut the old bearings off with a Dremel (keep a clean rag over the rest of the thing, to keep metal filings out,) rinse with brake or carburettor cleaner, and tap the new bearings on. Reused the old preload shims, and haven't had a problem.

5-90
Click to expand...
 
also one way to make it easier to install, place the carrier in the freezer overnight and then throw your bearings in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes, remove the carrier and slip the new bearings on, sometimes they slip right on by hand, other times they tap right on with a little hammer
 
Rawbrown said:
we have a winner for the best suggestion so far... 5-90.
and just to add to it. don't cut all the way through the bearing but about 80%. then take a hammer and chisel and smack it right in the crack. if you do it right you'll hear a "kink" sound and the bearing will tap right off.
when hammering on the new bearings, do not hammer against the the cage and make sure of that.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I try to make all advice borne of practical experience (viz. I screwed up - here's how you don't destroy what I did...)

Concur on the hammer & chisel - you usually end up having to go a little farther thru the carrier bearing race than you do on the axle shaft (which pop of their own accord at about 70-80%,) I think I used a hammer and cold chisel as well.

I did modify the chisel slightly tho - I flatted the tip of it, and just used the bevel to break the bearing through.

The thermal advice by "twisted" is good as well - but I'd probably put the bearings in the oven rather than boiling water (I'm just funny that way. I don't like getting steel too wet if I can avoid it...) The boiling water should evapourate almost immediately, tho.

I just don't know how much of a hurry you're in to get the job done, tho...

5-90
 
There is only one thing I ever put in the oven to open it up. and thats ford ring gears. I put them in my toaster oven at 250 for about 20min... slides right on.
bearings have all been installed with a good old sense of persuation. I use an aluminum bearing/seal installer that I got from pepboys for $20 and I can usually install a D30 carrier bearing in about 3-4 hits from my 2# copper hammer.
 
Rawbrown said:
There is only one thing I ever put in the oven to open it up. and thats ford ring gears. I put them in my toaster oven at 250 for about 20min... slides right on.
Click to expand...

yup :D
 
5-90 said:
...but I'd probably put the bearings in the oven rather than boiling water (I'm just funny that way. I don't like getting steel too wet if I can avoid it...) The boiling water should evapourate almost immediately, tho.
Click to expand...

I did that once, the oven thing and well when my girlfriend came home and looked to see what I was cooking for dinner while I was still in the garage fixing somthing... well it didnt take too well.

Yes the water evaporates but no matter what method you do, heat, no heat etc you should always oil down the parts so no corrosion happens
 
5-90 said:
It will.

I've done this in my 89 Limited - just cut the old bearings off with a Dremel (keep a clean rag over the rest of the thing, to keep metal filings out,) rinse with brake or carburettor cleaner, and tap the new bearings on. Reused the old preload shims, and haven't had a problem.

5-90
Click to expand...

wish i woulda read this earlier. just spent $75 on new bearings/races/labor for getting new bearings pressed in
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
All D30 lockers the same?
Replies
9
Views
468
RCP Phx
R
T
Wheelbase adjustment issue
2
Replies
24
Views
420
RCP Phx
R
A
dana 30 low pinion 488 on 33.6 inch tires ?
Replies
6
Views
1K
75SV1
7
F
99 XJ V8 Swapped, now door's will unlock but won't lock
Replies
3
Views
150
FreeRoller16
F
C
Need help reassembling Chrysler 8.25 rear axle...
2
Replies
27
Views
4K
Anak
Anak
Back
Top