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tcase crossmember stud

POLAR_JEEP_04

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ohio
i just got a rustys tcase drop and im having trouble takeing out the studs. is there a trick to this? do i need a puller? i have to work tomorrow and this is my DD so any help would be great! thanks, jason

ps 95 XJ sport
 
polar_jeep_04 said:
i just got a rustys tcase drop and im having trouble takeing out the studs. is there a trick to this? do i need a puller? i have to work tomorrow and this is my DD so any help would be great! thanks, jason

ps 95 XJ sport

Thread one nut onto it, not tightly though. Then thread another nut up against that one, tight. Now the two nuts should be relatively locked together. Get a wrench on both nuts at the same time and thread the whole stud out.
 
i think i striped one of the studs out to much to do that i tried to heat it and take vice grips to it so i dont think i could get two nuts on there but i think that will work for the other side
 
91 Jeep Project said:
Thread one nut onto it, not tightly though. Then thread another nut up against that one, tight. Now the two nuts should be relatively locked together. Get a wrench on both nuts at the same time and thread the whole stud out.

If you can only get a wrench on one nut (which is common,) then have a nut between the wrench and the direction you want the stud to go, so it butts against the other.

For instance, if you're torquing the stud IN, grab the nut on the OUTSIDE. If you're taking the stud OUT, grab the nut on the INSIDE.

If you grab the nut closest to the end you're moving toward, all you'll do is take the nuts off again...

5-90
 
If you're not going to reuse the studs - or if they're already unslavageable - I've had good luck taking a grinding stone or a die grinder, grinding two flats on the stud (don't thin it out too much, but chew the threads down and make a "flat side" on opposite sides,) and grab the stud by the two flats with your vise-locks.

It also comes in handy to fetch it a light rap or two with a light hammer right on the end to break loose any sort of rust, dirt, or crud that might be holding it in place.

If it REALLY sticks, heat the end of the stud up to a medium to bright red with a torch, then touch a candle (or block of paraffin wax, should be available at a place that carries canning supplies) to the base. The wax will melt and wick into the threads, and the hole will be temporarily expanded slightly by the expansion of the stud due to heat. The stud will shrink a touch faster than the hole it's in - which is why the paraffin will wick into the threads.

Let it cool to ambient temperature, and you should be able to screw the stud right out (it's how we also get oil galley pipe plugs that have been stuck in place for 30 or 40 years...)

5-90
 
I tried one of those stud removers on my tcase skid studs. I'd already stripped the $hit out of one of them..it didn't work on the other one either. I wound up using a LOT of PB blaster and vise grips to get them out. That was the most frustrating part of my lift process. My studs were pretty much worn down to nothing too ^.
 
ty now I know to buy something else.
 
I used the Craftsman stud remover on both sides, and it worked perfectly. I live in the salt belt, so I have become accustomed to breaking and striping bolts. I tried my best with vice grips and the double nut method(maybe I was doing it wrong), but the stud remover removed the studs with out any problem. Of course, now that I think of it. I believe I had to drop my tc cross-member to be able to get it to seat on the stud correctly. And yes it does damage the threads, but I wasn't planning on reusing the stud anyway.
 
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