Replacement closed system tee's

1990 RENIX (111k miles!) with closed cooling system.

The tee on my closed cooling system closest to the coolant pressure bottle is starting to get a little weepy and I suspect it'll need to be replaced before the hot summer months. All the heater/rad hoses are starting to get a little dry from old age as well, so I'd like to replace most of them while I'm at it.

I replaced the coolant pressure bottle and thermostat a few years ago and the closed system has been absolutely trouble free since then so I'm going to stick with it...please don't recommend that I swap to open system!

I'd like to know if there is another option to the shoddy "tee's" that renix used in this model of cooling system. I'm assuming it's a dealer part and quite expensive, any idea on pricing or alternatives?

Good place to start:

http://www.teamcherokee.com/AC_and_Heating/index.html

They have OEM & aftermarket heater control valves and the hose kit includes the "T".

I believe NAPA and others carry some, if not all, of what you need.

if you want inexpensive alternative for the "tee", go to the junk yard or make it yourself out of copper pipe, tee, and a 90 degree elbow if you know how to sweat(solder) copper pipe.

89xj said:

if you want inexpensive alternative for the "tee", go to the junk yard or make it yourself out of copper pipe, tee, and a 90 degree elbow if you know how to sweat(solder) copper pipe.

Click to expand...

This is what I was looking for. Have you done this yet? The only reason I ask is because there is a part of the T that looks to have a valve (possibly proportioning valve?).

Looking at that valve, a plain old tee would work just as good. All newer vehicles run coolant to the heater core all the time anyway. If you worry about it, put in a hot water petcock to turn it off for summer. Copper plumbing tee, petcock, four 2" pcs of copper pipe. Solder together. Put small start of a flare in the ends to guarantee that hose doesn't blow off after clamped.

winterbeater said:

Looking at that valve, a plain old tee would work just as good. All newer vehicles run coolant to the heater core all the time anyway. If you worry about it, put in a hot water petcock to turn it off for summer. Copper plumbing tee, petcock, four 2" pcs of copper pipe. Solder together. Put small start of a flare in the ends to guarantee that hose doesn't blow off after clamped.

Click to expand...

Perfect, thanks for the help. I'll post pictures when I get around to doing this in the next while.

winterbeater said:

Looking at that valve, a plain old tee would work just as good. All newer vehicles run coolant to the heater core all the time anyway. If you worry about it, put in a hot water petcock to turn it off for summer. Copper plumbing tee, petcock, four 2" pcs of copper pipe. Solder together. Put small start of a flare in the ends to guarantee that hose doesn't blow off after clamped.

Click to expand...

If you stop the flow through the heater core part of the year you will be more likely to get blockages in there. If coolant flows all the time it will stay more clear.

I used brass t's I got at the hardware store with ridges on the ends to hold the hose (with clamps). The valve you refer to is the heater control valve and it is not needed. In the summer the blend doors will keep the heat out of the cabin and you will not know the diffrence.

That valve is the flow control for the heater core (on/off,) and I've safely eliminated mine several years ago. Most of my heater plumbing is now copper tubing - you should be able to see a pic of it on my site (RENIX rig.)

NB: 1/2" copper line fits neatly into 5/8" heater hose. Most of the heater hose in the system is 5/8" ID. Easy.