So I want to start my axle build...

A guy came by and checked out my bike, and told me he wants to buy it and will paypal me money tonight and pick it up Friday. Sooo I'm pretty sure I'll have $2100 in my pocket by the end of the weekend for my axle build in addition to my paycheck.

I wanted to get some last opinions before I go buying anything, I've already spoken to many of you, but now it's public. So please critique my plan (nicely).

The current plan...
For the front:
-Keep my stock ABS HP D30 (with 297 joints)
-Gear 4.56 with yukon gears
-Replace all bearings and upgrade seals (what bearings and seals should I get?)
-Put in a selectable locker, either E-locker or ARB (help...)

For the rear:
-Buy a disc brake 8.8 (know anyone with one?)
-Gear 4.56 with yukon gears
-Weld perches and raised shock mounts (ruffstuff kit maybe?)
-Purchase an aftermarket Diff. cover like Warn, Riddler, or Solid
-Weld axle tubes (?)
-MAYBE a locker...can I add in a locker later without having to adjust everything, or should I get one when I have it geared, or just run it open for now?

I KNOW I want a selectable up front, don't know about the rear, and I know I want 4.56 gears. I plan to run 33's around summer time, and do NOT want an 8.25 (I don't see the point, when it's only a little more for a stronger axle with disc).

~Scott

I would get a hold of Avanteone on here. John has/can get just about everything you are needing. I know he sometimes has 8.8 in stock. Get a hold of him.

Put the selectable in the rear and an Aussie in the front.

FWIW I run a 8.8 in the rear with a aussie locker. Stock shafts and have never had a problem running 35 bfg krawlers and now km2. The d30 on the other hand i blew up many times.

WaXJ_Skier said:

Put the selectable in the rear and an Aussie in the front.

Click to expand...

I have a 242 case, and want to be able to turn. That's why I want a selectable up front. So I can turn it off to turn and back on when I need it.

I know enough guys I can get the welding taken care of, but need an 8.8 and my gearing/locker install done from John. I'll be calling him tomorrow.

~Scott

I run a selectable in the front of mine and love to be able to turn it on and off. I vote lunch box or full case in the rear and select up front especially if its a DD

XJOFFROAD said:

I run a selectable in the front of mine and love to be able to turn it on and off. I vote lunch box or full case in the rear and select up front especially if its a DD

Click to expand...

It's a DD. I figured a selectable makes the most sence, and I'm prepared to pay for it. A lunch box in the rear makes sence, but I don't want to regret it. And I'm not 100% sure of what's available for the 8.8.

~Scott

My .02:
1. Go 4.88's instead of 4.56 (I am assuming this is an option for the 8.8?)
2. Do you have a SYE yet? If not, I would do the SYE and 2 low kit before the axles.
3. Yes weld the 8.8 tubes.
4. I would consider a rear selectable (arb is my preferance) and lock right (or similar) up front with the 2 low kit (others might be able to give you opinions on this also?).

Michael

2xtreme said:

My .02:
1. Go 4.88's instead of 4.56 (I am assuming this is an option for the 8.8?)
2. Do you have a SYE yet? If not, I would do the SYE and 2 low kit before the axles.
3. Yes weld the 8.8 tubes.
4. I would consider a rear selectable (arb is my preferance) and lock right (or similar) up front with the 2 low kit (others might be able to give you opinions on this also?).

Michael

Click to expand...

2LOW won't work with the 242.

And yeah, get a SYE. Tom Wood has one for the 242 that has taken care of many of my customers.

ECKSJAY said:

2LOW won't work with the 242.

And yeah, get a SYE. Tom Wood has one for the 242 that has taken care of many of my customers.

Click to expand...

AHHHH. Of course, I totally forgot about that little detail! (thanks for the catch Phil)

In that case, I would likely put the selectable in the front and consider it for the rear (depending on what lunch box lockers are available for the rear).

Michael

2xtreme said:

My .02:
1. Go 4.88's instead of 4.56 (I am assuming this is an option for the 8.8?)
2. Do you have a SYE yet? If not, I would do the SYE and 2 low kit before the axles.
3. Yes weld the 8.8 tubes.
4. I would consider a rear selectable (arb is my preferance) and lock right (or similar) up front with the 2 low kit (others might be able to give you opinions on this also?).

Michael

Click to expand...

Thanks for the help Michael. I'd rather not stray off topic by talking about SYEs. I like full time, I plan on keeping full time, that means I plan on keeping my 242, and that also means I can't go 2low, which means a selectable up front is a good idea. This is a daily driver, I can build a trail rig a couple years from now with all that.

On the other hand...4.88's for gears ehh? Isn't that a little over kill? I'm worried that will kill me in the MPG department...am I wrong? Especially since I'm running 31's right now. (I want 33's by summer, but it might be longer)

~Scott

Keep the 4.56 and go TeraLow later on.

IMHO Scott,

Yes, the 8.8 would be sweet cause you could use it on a later build, and I myself am all about doing it right the first time, but I would settle for an 8.25(you can run up to 35s on that...) leave it open(or LS), lock the front, re-gear, and go up to 33s.

I say this because there is no reason to run an 8.8, not to mention put lots of money into it, when there are steps to be taken before that. You've said previously that 35s are way, way far into the future for you, and an 8.25 will serve you well...while giving you money left over for new tires, and maybe more lift.

-Lyle

Way I see it Lyle, it's only $250 more to get an 8.8 over an 8.25. That's a week and a half of work for me, and as you've said...may as well do it right the first time. After seeing Jame's XJ today, and seeing how nice his new 8.8 looked and hearing the good words...I'm pretty set on an 8.8.

I mean CanMan's 8.25 is selling for like $100 less than John's selling his 8.8's...throw another $150 into the kit, and you've got an axle.

~Scott

Buy my axles...

Or put a selectable in the rear, a locked rear has more of an impact on your turning radius then a locked front.

-Alex

Your axles are for sale?

What about the limited slip 8.8's? I've heard John talking about being able to add clutch packs to make it stiffer...is this a good way to go?

~Scott

Personally I would go 4.88's, they might be a little high for the 31's but that won't last long and you will feel like you have a sports car for a while In reality there really isn't much difference between a 4.56 and 4.88.

There is nothing wrong with the 8.25, I would agree with that. However, do a little math and see what the difference would be in cost by the time you re-gear and put a locker into either. Your not talking much difference by the time you spend much time on either axle.

Michael

2xtreme said:

Personally I would go 4.88's, they might be a little high for the 31's but that won't last long and you will feel like you have a sports car for a while In reality there really isn't much difference between a 4.56 and 4.88.

There is nothing wrong with the 8.25, I would agree with that. However, do a little math and see what the difference would be in cost by the time you re-gear and put a locker into either. Your not talking much difference by the time you spend much time on either axle.

Michael

Click to expand...

You make a good point Michael...hah...I'll ponder that 4.88 idea.

As far as the 8.25, I've done the math, the only extra amount spent is for the brackets on an 8.8...the lockers and gears are about the same. And I get disc brakes, which I think would be REALLY nice.

~Scott

x2 on the 4.88s

I know john at auburn car and auto had (3) 8.8's for sale $250 each at the time when I bought mine from him. 2 were 3.55's and one a 3.73? Shouldn't make a diference if your regearing. If you need a pinion flange adapter, call Drive lines NW here in everett with the spicer p/n they have them used for $25 and new for $45. I picked up a used one and it looked brand new. Along with a set of Neapco 1310 u-joints