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Ford 8.8 Guys...detroit locker question.

veedubshafer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Palmerton PA
OK, you may have seen my other post but anyway....I am swapping in an Explorer 8.8. I was going to go to the JY yesterday and then the weather was supposed to be bad so I made other plans....anyway so I know I am going to get one with 4.10's - LS or open I am not sure what I am going to find. I am not worried if it has discs or drums so year doesn't matter. What I am wondering is how hard the R&P is to set up in these axles and if this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...330033659&ssPageName=ADME:X:BOCOR:MOTORS:1123
would go right in EITHER an LS OR an OPEN unit - I am not well versed in rears but have done about everything else from rebuilding motors and all sorts of things over the years. So, I would just like some insight...really the poor weather is driving me nuts - I really am not into going to the JY when its snowing or in the 20's LOL - wish I could but I can't. Thanks Guys!
 
I have a detroit in my 8.8, but it was dropped in by the previous owner. I like it so far, but really haven't driven it much (in winter build mod)

that carrier will replace the LSD carrier and the open carrier either way.

I have read that the 8.8 gears are not TOO hard to setup, but having never done any myself (8.8 or otherwise) I can't give you much to go on there.
 
that is a fullcase locker so its going to replace whatever it is you put it in regardless
ok, that I do know but I guess among all my rambling the thing I want to know most is if these are a hard rear to set up - my buddy did a d44 not too long ago and said that the Dana axles are more of a pain than some others
 
Not bad, the crush sleeve pinion is kind of a PITA. I think you can get kits to replace the crush sleeve with shims.

If you're keeping 4.10s it should go together pretty easily. With my 4.88s, IIRC we had to dremel a couple of ring gear teeth to get the cross shaft in.
 
Not bad, the crush sleeve pinion is kind of a PITA. I think you can get kits to replace the crush sleeve with shims.

If you're keeping 4.10s it should go together pretty easily. With my 4.88s, IIRC we had to dremel a couple of ring gear teeth to get the cross shaft in.

yes I am, I could probably put it back together with the original stuff and it would be pretty close
 
I went super 8.8 and am now lookin into a Detroit. That's what I was told to run so that's what it will be. Once my Detroit arrives I doing the 4.88 gears, there are some great sites to help you rebuild it and furthermore you only need a pinion set up bearing. The carrier bearings are shimmmed on the outerside of the carrier
 
I've done a few 8.8's with detroits.

They aren't hard to set up. Getting them just perfect usually takes me about 2 or 3 tries.

The crush sleeve is a PITA, but there are kits to replace them with spacers and shims.

One thing I HIGHLY reccomend is either lockwiring the ring gear bolts on or in my case I just tack welded each bolt on once I got the rear end set up. I have personally seen at least 3 8.8 detroits work the ring gear bolts out. It has to do with the split case locker design. It sucks, happened to me.

When I built my 8.8 the second time after the ring gear bolts backed out and destroyed the diff, I found some that had the lock wire holes in them at an aircraft supply place, but just tack welded each bolt on because it was so much easier and cost efficent.

And before anyone says the rear end wasn't set up properly... not one of the rear or front ends I have built has had this problem, except for the 8.8's. I have seen a few of the early style split case D30 ARB's do the same thing, but I haven't built one of those. I used loctite primer and loctite and the bolts still came out on my 8.8.
 
One thing I HIGHLY reccomend is either lockwiring the ring gear bolts on or in my case I just tack welded each bolt on once I got the rear end set up. I have personally seen at least 3 8.8 detroits work the ring gear bolts out. It has to do with the split case locker design. It sucks, happened to me.
When I built my 8.8 the second time after the ring gear bolts backed out and destroyed the diff, I found some that had the lock wire holes in them at an aircraft supply place, but just tack welded each bolt on because it was so much easier and cost efficent.


hmmmm, now you have me thinking.
so for someone who just put in an 8.8 with the detroit installed second or third hands ago... this may be a good time to re-torque then tac the bolts eh?
now do you recommend the carrier be out of the case when tacking those bolts, or can it be done while installed, but with some shielding of the open case? since there is some work involved in getting the shafts out, cross pin out, carrier out, etc etc... it would be very handy to just tac'em where they are?

thanks for the heads up.
 
... What I am wondering is how hard the R&P is to set up in these axles and if this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...330033659&ssPageName=ADME:X:BOCOR:MOTORS:1123

Has anybody but me noticed that the ebay picture is for the Detroit True Trac and not the Detroit No-Spin Locker?

There is a big difference between the two and I want to make sure you are picking up the one you want. If you want a Limited Slip, then disregard my comments. I hope this helps:
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/PerformanceProducts/Products/Differentials/index.htm
 
You're going to destroy those old axle seals when you take the axles out. I would do like was suggested and get a master install kit so you can change everything and only do it once.

I didn't change the axle seals and i paid for it later when they started leak.

The pinion crush sleeve will take massive torque to crush (300 ft lbs) and then it will go quick. You have to be careful not to get it too tight.
 
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