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Master cylinder

Many run the stock master and just change the pro value. The guts out of some ZJ pro value will do. Also later model improved booster/master may help? I forgot the cut off year for the better booster.
I'm thinking you maybe running some really big tires/motor if you need a 60 and with the extra weight that often comes with rest of the gear for this type of offing as in. Massive bumpers, bulletproof skids, rail and rocker plating and tons of beer. You may want to look into hydro assisted brakes. Goggle will show you the way.
UNLESS your running a stick then you probably will not need it. :)
 
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A disc/drum master cylinder has a residual pressure valve on the drum circuit side. The drums need about 6-7 psi on the lines all the time(even when not engaged) to hold the shoes close to the drums against the return springs. When 4-wheel discs weren't as common, the trick was to dis-assemble the drum side and remove the residual valve(a ball and spring installed under the line connection) then use an adjustable proportioning valve to tune the rear brakes. Now you just look for a M/C from a Grand Cherokee/Wrangler that had discs all around.

Pretty much any time you start swapping brake parts around, you'll need to get an adjustable proportioning valve to get the most out of your brakes.
 
I think the MC from an E-350 has 1 1/8" bore and should bolt up... that is hearsay but look into it... I recall reading that it was "tits" with bigger D60 brakes all round.
 
Thanks for the info, and brandon just running 37 for now,and bumpers. Got the axles for 400.00 and my playtoy already has 60's,so I figured what the hell why not.
 
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