87 wagoneer rough idle when warm please help me

Hello all, i'm new to this forum and have spent the last few days searching the posts for an answer to my dilema. I've gotten several good hints here and they have helped, but I still have a problem. I just bought an 87 wagoneer with a 40000 mile reman motor and an auto. It had a very rough high idle when i bought it, seemed to have an intermittnent miss was running rich when warm as well. I've replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor, Idle Air Control, O2 Sensor, Plugs (autolite, gapped at 0.35), wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, and I've run a can of sea foam through the vacuum line. All of that has taken care of the running rich, and has brought the power back to what it should be. However, I still have a high idle (1000-1200 rpm) and an intermittent miss. I haven't checked the TPS with a voltmeter yet (my voltmeter is at work) but i have adjusted it back and forth to see if it made any difference at all and it did not. It also has a chugging idle, almost sounds like a burned valve but I know thats not it because i ran a compression check and also did the test where you run it to full throttle and shut it off with the pedal pegged to listen for the sound of a chug or miss, and it sounded great. Could EGR valve cause this problem? Also, when i bought this jeep i got an 89 cherokee pioneer for parts and the EGR valve in it has 2 vacuum lines connected to a black plastic disc, which then has one line going to the solonoid. My 87 only has one line on the egr valve, and it goes directly to the intake where the big plastic vaccum manifold is on the front end of the intake. This line has no vacuum in it at idle, but will spike to 15 lbs momentarily when you blip the throttle. Is that correct for this year? Or is the 89 egr valve correct? Also i found that all of my intake/exhaust mounting bolts were loose and one had fallen out. I tightened them all up and replaced the missing one and that helped, but should I change my gaskets?

no one?

You could check for intake vacuum leaks to see if gasket needs replacement. It certainly seems possible if the bolts were all loose. One way to do this is to go around the manifold joint with an unlit propane torch. If the idle changes, you have a leak. EGR should be closed at idle. Sorry, don't know which one is "correct". Have you cleaned the Idle Air Control valve?

I checked the intake gaskets with brake cleaner, no change in idle so assuming all is well there. I replaced the IAC with new one and also cleaned the seat in the throttle body. Going to check TPS with ohmeter tonite, also going to check grounds and connectors in entire system. One other question, i read somewhere that the HO motors have a different cam profile which compensates for the EGR system thus allowing the engine to comply with emmissions. If someone swapped in a newer HO motor and used the EGR with this different cam, could that cause issues with the operation of the EGR? Also, thanks for your PM...

I don't think the cam would be an issue, but I don't know for sure. I would expect that EGR compensation would be handled by spark advance/retard and fuel injection rich/lean, if it was needed. Maybe someone else knows better.

OK, tested TPS with voltmeter and checks out ok. Smooth throughout the range and adjusted to .83 just like the book says. Checked grounds, check out ok. No major resistance to ground and any point. Checked out the EGR valve and the diaphram is bad, won't hold vacuum. Going to replace that tommorow. I opened the valve with a screw driver and it did bring my idle back down, but it was very rough and rich smelling. Any new directions I should be looking?