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longfields for a dana 30 ???

I think the price is ridiculous myself....They justify manufacturing the shafts based on the premise that the D30 is A) plentiful and B) inexpensive then you throw $850 shafts, $500 Reid Racing knuckles, gears, locker and gussets. Yeah, it makes it a formidable axle, but compared to what? A D44? Gee that makes sense!

Now you’re into a D30 $2500-$3000 depending on if you do the work yourself or not.

I think that if you’ve already dumped all the time and money into a D30 anyway and all you’re missing are the shafts then maybe, but I don’t know maybe not.

This is just me, but I think I would take my $2300 and get me a new hp44 all ready set up with gears, selectable locker and chromo shafts before I dump anymore dough in my 30.
 
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This is just me, but I think I would take my $2300 and get me a new hp44 all ready set up with gears, selectable locker and chromo shafts before I dump anymore dough in my 30.[/quote]


WHERE???
 
I think the price is ridiculous myself....They justify manufacturing the shafts based on the premise that the D30 is A) plentiful and B) inexpensive then you throw $850 shafts, $500 Reid Racing knuckles, gears, locker and gussets. Yeah, it makes it a formidable axle, but compared to what? A D44? Gee that makes sense!

Now you’re into a D30 $2500-$3000 depending on if you do the work yourself or not.

I think that if you’ve already dumped all the time and money into a D30 anyway and all you’re missing are the shafts then maybe, but I don’t know maybe not.

This is just me, but I think I would take my $2300 and get me a new hp44 all ready set up with gears, selectable locker and chromo shafts before I dump anymore dough in my 30.
I think the D30 is worth putting some money into building for all but the most hardcore stuff because it is light and plentiful.
 
In my case I'm only adding the shafts, I have everything else done and have built my axle over time. If I had $2000+ to sink into an axle I would go with a 9/44 setup and be done. I don't have that kind of coin to drop at one time so i do my work in stages.
 
This is just me, but I think I would take my $2300 and get me a new hp44 all ready set up with gears, selectable locker and chromo shafts before I dump anymore dough in my 30.

X2. For what that u-joint to birfield conversion kit cost you can buy a currie HP44 front axle for the money here. http://4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=39608&ProductId=102484. Not a bad deal for a built axle that'll run ya $1200 - $1400, although I'm sure the shipping for the sucker has to hurt the pocket.

Funny seeing this u-joint to birfield conversion being offered for a Jeep. I've got an old Toyota truck and for years have been seeing the opposite thing going on with a birfield to u-joint conversion kit from various companies like this one.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=143

Different lanes for different brains I guess!:variety:

For me I'd recommend stickin' with stock parts for easy availability and cheap replacement $$$. When you're broke down in BFE & need parts, you don't want to be huntin' down a pair of custom axle shaft cause you busted a custom big $$$ axle joint you thought was 'unbreakable' :flamemad:

Since I don't have allot of dough and wanted to run bigger tires, I went with beefing up both with some upgraded 4340 chrome moly axle shafts for around $100 per shaft. My old Toy got the Marlin Crawler Marfields. The trusty XJ DD got Alloy brand 4340 axles. Both rigs have 33" tires and neither have busted one yet with rock crawling, trail trips, and fun in the Sierra's. When out on the trails I carry the old ones as spares in case Murphy law wants to bit me me or a fellow wheeler with the same model rig in the :moon:

Gotta have my Murphy insurance :woohoo:
 
This is just me, but I think I would take my $2300 and get me a new hp44 all ready set up with gears, selectable locker and chromo shafts before I dump anymore dough in my 30.


http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetra...237&t_pt=100714&t_pl=6439&t_pn=G/GD44TJ-FA456

Bought one last year for the TJ and was shipped to the door for $2300

The economy has effected the price some these days, $2700 now. But, I'd still go this route long before I spend close to $900 for shafts. Thats just crazy.
 
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Thats just the housing, no gears, no shafts, no bearings.
 
the funny thing is on alot of yota forums they are trying to get rid of the birfield joint and convert to 27 spline 297 chromo shafts up front as their upgrade, and so why would you want longfields? maybe im a noob, but when i was researching teh best options to make a yota solid front axle better, cheaper and prob better where the 27 spline chromo conversions, basically d30 shafts, so why do you want these??? is it just to say you have something different? i dont see whats wrong with some chromo shafts if youre gonna polish the turd theyre cheaper
 
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetra...237&t_pt=100714&t_pl=6439&t_pn=G/GD44TJ-FA456

Bought one last year for the TJ and was shipped to the door for $2300

The economy has effected the price some these days, $2700 now. But, I'd still go this route long before I spend close to $900 for shafts. Thats just crazy.

Still trying to see the value of spending $2300.....or $2700 on a D44 with D30 knuckles/balljoints/outers? Especially if it's running Genu-whine Gears.

I'm into my trussed and gusseted, Alloy 30-Spline shafted/ARB'ed/4:88/Vanco braked HP D30 less than $2K.
 
Longfield and stock toyota birfields aren't the same thing.

Doesn't the cv style allow for greater functional angles too?
 
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