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i just broke the top 4 bolts to my rear shocks =/ anyone know how to fix my problem?

M

MaxxXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bakersfield CA
well the title says it all, i was trying to install a set of temporary rear shocks for the jeep until i could get a lift right, well i sprayed pb blaster on it this morning, this afternoon and at 3 today, i put a regular 12" long box wrench to it and it twisted the head right off of it... flush with the surface, same with all but the last one i had to get a grinder to get it off after i stripped the head and vise grips couldnt get it... so my question is, what do i have to do to install a new set of shocks?... also i want it to be stronger so what can i do =/

i plan on going grade 8 back in it so i wont have this problem again...

please help =/

looks like the lift will be coming alot sooner than later =/ no point in doing it twice...
 
Drill them out, use a reverse drill bit if you can get one, you might get lucky and they will back out as you drill. If not you can retap the holes.
 
here is what i did. take an air chisel or a punch n a hammer and give a nice solid whack on those tack welded on nuts. they will break and fly off. then get yourself a 10mm diameter bolt thread pitch is up to you and just match up the length. then get a corresponding nut. line up the shock for install (already install the bottom part, or at least have it slipped onto the stud) now go in from the side with a wrench with the nut taped to it so it doesn't fall. look up and line up that nut with the hole. then carefully thread in the bolt blah blah blah.

basically i found this to be the easiest thing and the 10mm bolt/nut (i hope i'm remembering this right for you, but i'm 99% sure) were the perfect size. the nut was big enough to not require a washer and really had a large 'foot print' up top. also i did try using washers but they would hit the bulge of metal for the middle of the shock, and would be seated at an angle. aka didnt work. and the 10mm was nice b/c it juuuuuuust fit through the cross bar piece for the top of my monroes and just fit through the factory holes in the unibody. seemed to me as the largest/strongest setup that could fit w/o modification.
 
Another option, put a set of bar pin eliminators up there once you get it cleaned up.
 
so i had some ingenious plan to drill the bolts out and retap the holes when this happened to me, so i went to center punch a broken bolt in the nut, and after a few whacks with a punch and a 3lb sledge, the nut popped off the back. fish a bolt through the crossmember with a magnet and big washer... and you can even get a wrench on it to tighten. (it's not that far)

there's no need to weld anything or cut the floor. please do this and save yourself a ton of trouble that i wish i had saved myself :banghead:
 
im sure someone will say this is wrong but,

I just drilled mine all the way threw to the floor, and dropped some long bolts down on some 2" washers. so far no problems.
 
Like has been posted a few times above, Just punch them out,
I then just wrapped a piece of wire around the new bolts & fished them into the holes.
 
garr said:
I then just wrapped a piece of wire around the new bolts & fished them into the holes.
Click to expand...

alternative to a magnet. really the easiest way.

for reference, the stock size is M8x1.25 which is nearly identical to 5/16-18... so if you're in the mood to replace broken metric stuff with standard equivalents, here's your shot
 
Last edited:
RichP said:
Another option, put a set of bar pin eliminators up there once you get it cleaned up.
Click to expand...


i saw the cheap way to do it just now for a BPE...
it involves the rear swaybar links and factory holes... my biggest deal is getting the existing ones out, but maybe i'll do like asp387 said and just bust em out and fish in the biggest bolts/ washers i can that will still fit in the bar pin.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Rear_BPEs.htm
 
well, the hole that is exposed when you pop the nuts off will nearly fit a 1/2" bolt head through it, but not quite... so i'd say it's somewhere around .450" ish.... but i don't know what size will fit through the swaybar link.
 
asp387 said:
well, the hole that is exposed when you pop the nuts off will nearly fit a 1/2" bolt head through it, but not quite... so i'd say it's somewhere around .450" ish.... but i don't know what size will fit through the swaybar link.
Click to expand...

well like i was saying as long as it will fit thru the bar pins i'll be happy. i'll just goto budget bolt and get some bolts washer and nuts for it and be good to go, prolly make it a whole weekend thing... im really dreading removing my sway bar from the leaf spring u bolts cuz im pretty sure they will be just as rusted... i may buy u bolts for when they do break i can cut them and replace them.

and the sway bar link is all a matter of a drill press =)
 
naw that part should be fine. i really wouldn't worry about it.
 
asp387 said:
naw that part should be fine. i really wouldn't worry about it.
Click to expand...


thats easy to say BUT this jeep spent its first few years in michigan... then transfered to san diego up until i bought it 6 months ago. so it's had a good 9 years in snow salt sand infested places... every bolt i've removed has been broke or stripped =/
 
mine grew up in southern NH and it was fine in that dept. :dunno: spray with PB and clean the threads with a wire brush is all i can say.
 
MaxxXJ said:
i saw the cheap way to do it just now for a BPE...
it involves the rear swaybar links and factory holes... my biggest deal is getting the existing ones out, but maybe i'll do like asp387 said and just bust em out and fish in the biggest bolts/ washers i can that will still fit in the bar pin.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Rear_BPEs.htm
Click to expand...

that turns your upper shock mount 90 degress and puts it of axis, expext to got through upper shock bushings faster and maybee bend a shock
 
ROBZ95Xj said:
that turns your upper shock mount 90 degress and puts it of axis, expext to got through upper shock bushings faster and maybee bend a shock
Click to expand...


i see what your saying... turns it from = to || and when its designed to bend a certain way... i'll wear it out faster, i agree, im just going to do like every thread i just recently read... get a BFH and a punch and knock em out... then reinstall it with a 8mm bolt about an inch long and washer with a nut on bottom...maybe a lock washer if it will work
 
I recently changed the shocks on my jeep and had a rear bolt break the welds on the threaded side. had to get the hack saw out cut the bolt and was able to fit my hand in that little whole to get a new bolt in. Just run the nut on the opposite side and make sure to use a good lock washer, or starwasher.
 
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