8.8 swap proportioning valve question

squidd · Feb 10, 2009

So I have been reading up on what is neccessary to complete the brake part of my swap and the general concensious that I have found is that the "guts" of my proportioning valve need swapped out to give me the correct residule line pressure.
What i am having trouble finding is where do you get just the internals. Can these be ordered up through a parts store? Or do I need to get the entire unit. Some preliminary searching has not listed the ZJ valves on Schmucks or autozones web pages. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks,:read:

lazyxj · Feb 10, 2009

squidd said:
So I have been reading up on what is neccessary to complete the brake part of my swap and the general concensious that I have found is that the "guts" of my proportioning valve need swapped out to give me the correct residule line pressure.
What i am having trouble finding is where do you get just the internals. Can these be ordered up through a parts store? Or do I need to get the entire unit. Some preliminary searching has not listed the ZJ valves on Schmucks or autozones web pages. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks,:read:

I have not seen the internal parts available separately.
You need to buy a ZJ valve or go to the pick-a-part, find an ZJ (with rear disc brakes) and remove the spring, piston and cap.
Be sure to get the ZJ cap since the ZJ piston is slightly smaller than the ZJ.
The XJ cap needs a 13/16" wrench and the ZJ a 3/4".

xcm · Feb 11, 2009

i, and many, MANY others on sub 35's, didnt bother to replace the prop valve...

YES, your brakes will be slightly better w/ a disc prop valve... but, your brakes will be fine even without it.

dont know your rig specs, but i thought i'd throw that out there...

swbooking · Feb 11, 2009

Agreed, i havent swapped mine out and im running 35s. I have no problem braking.

mindless · Feb 11, 2009

Yea i left mine alone and brakes are 10x better just having the disks on the back it was a huge difference for mine.

squidd · Feb 11, 2009

Yeah, I am currently only running 32"s, so I don't think my tire size will tax the braking ability. I guess going that route would give me time to keep an eye at pull-a-part for a ZJ.

BruceB83 · Mar 18, 2009

lazyxj said:
I have not seen the internal parts available separately.
You need to buy a ZJ valve or go to the pick-a-part, find an ZJ (with rear disc brakes) and remove the spring, piston and cap.
Be sure to get the ZJ cap since the ZJ piston is slightly smaller than the ZJ.
The XJ cap needs a 13/16" wrench and the ZJ a 3/4".

So you can just replace the spring/piston/cap in the XJ PV? I didn't know that...I thought you had to replace the whole PV with one from the ZJ.

lazyxj · Mar 18, 2009

BruceB83 said:
So you can just replace the spring/piston/cap in the XJ PV? I didn't know that...I thought you had to replace the whole PV with one from the ZJ.

Check Go-Jeeps site. He is a genuine XJ expert.

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoZJvalve.htm
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoPvalve.htm
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/
Many hours of good reading.

emr1101 · Mar 18, 2009

i dont have a problem with regard to the rear locking up faster, however i think my front brakes dont grab all the way... its weird ill probably do the prop valve swap to fix it.

squidd · Mar 19, 2009

Great info, went out today looking at the ZJ pvalve I had picked up at the JY and had a couple questions all answered by those articles. Thanks!

8.8 swap proportioning valve question

squidd

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lazyxj

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xcm

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swbooking

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mindless

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squidd

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BruceB83

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lazyxj

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emr1101

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squidd

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