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Rear u-joint straps won't stay tight

B

bigdaddyjlove

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Atalanta
In my Daughter's TJ, the rear u-joint keeps loosening. I've tightened as much as think bolts that size can take, but they keep coming loose in a matter of a few days.

I'm really confuzed by this thing. Any ideas?

Thanks
 
Did you use threadlocker? U-joint screws should never be installed without threadlocker! Use LocTite #242 (or equivalent) for those.

Torque to, I believe, 14 pound-feet. Or is it 19? Check the Tech Archives on my site - find a year close to yours and find your axle (either a C8.25" or a D35, unless you got lucky and have a D44.) All specs per FSM.
 
yeah, I learned my lesson ofter my driveshaft flew out on the highway - broke my tail cone too - I thought my ujoint was just taking a crap but here it was the straps coming loose!
 
veedubshafer said:
yeah, I learned my lesson ofter my driveshaft flew out on the highway - broke my tail cone too - I thought my ujoint was just taking a crap but here it was the straps coming loose!
Click to expand...

I did the same thing and broke my tail cone as well, not a run ride home...

It did lead to the SYE though.
 
Replace straps and bolts, nuts.
((I)) use grade 8 bolts and self locking nuts.
Check that the U joint is not out of round do to running lose. Check saddle for same.
 
badron said:
Replace straps and bolts, nuts.
((I)) use grade 8 bolts and self locking nuts.
Check that the U joint is not out of round do to running lose. Check saddle for same.
Click to expand...

If it's a screw/strap arrangement, use hex socket head capscrews - regular hex heads won't have enough room, and reduced hex is a pain to find. SHCS are routinely H&T to SAE8 anyhow, so you'll be fine (they're what I use all around.)
 
If its the stock bolt and strap arangment and not the ubolt and nuts, it is 14 ft/lbs. You dont want to over tighten them, it leads to the heads popping off when you launch at the dragstrip. Ask me how I know.
 
The problem is not the bolts or straps. The problem is the yoke is worn out. A new one is your only solution. I believe Randys R&P has a kit that has u bolts instead of bolt and strap. Just remember that you will need a new crush sleeve and nut when replacing the yoke if this is a Dana35. A new seal is recommended also. The Dana 35 has a preload on the pinion of 15 to 25 inch pounds requiring a special torque wrench.
 
MAY POP said:
The problem is not the bolts or straps. The problem is the yoke is worn out. A new one is your only solution. I believe Randys R&P has a kit that has u bolts instead of bolt and strap. Just remember that you will need a new crush sleeve and nut when replacing the yoke if this is a Dana35. A new seal is recommended also. The Dana 35 has a preload on the pinion of 15 to 25 inch pounds requiring a special torque wrench.
Click to expand...

Not so much a "special" torque wrench - you just need something you can measure the preload with, and that ain't a "clicker" torque wrench. A beam-type is just fine for this sort of thing, or you can get a dial-type (which is more expensive.) For infrequent use, you're better off with a beam-type - fewer moving parts, and very little to no need for recalibration.
 
MAY POP said:
The problem is not the bolts or straps. The problem is the yoke is worn out. A new one is your only solution. I believe Randys R&P has a kit that has u bolts instead of bolt and strap. Just remember that you will need a new crush sleeve and nut when replacing the yoke if this is a Dana35. A new seal is recommended also. The Dana 35 has a preload on the pinion of 15 to 25 inch pounds requiring a special torque wrench.
Click to expand...


Nope not a worn yoke. Axle was re-built 5k miles ago including new yoke (30 spline shafts, Ected) Wanted to beef it up a little, due to the stroker.

I'm going to try a little thread locker on them this week and then check them about once a week for a couple of months

Thanks for the input guys. I should be able to pick up new hardware and replace them at the next oil change .
 
bigdaddyjlove said:
Nope not a worn yoke. Axle was re-built 5k miles ago including new yoke (30 spline shafts, Ected) Wanted to beef it up a little, due to the stroker.

I'm going to try a little thread locker on them this week and then check them about once a week for a couple of months

Thanks for the input guys. I should be able to pick up new hardware and replace them at the next oil change .
Click to expand...

LocTite #242 (I think it's blue.) 222 is too weak, 272 requires heat to break on small screws. I don't think you want to heat the yoke overmuch.

There's a thread going around here about titanium U-joint yoke caps - you may want to see if it applies to you. That should prevent strap stretch, and then just use quality screws (not "Made in China." Preferred countries of origin are Germany, Japan, Taiwan, or US - Hell, even Eastern Europe is good. The Chinese still can't heat-treat worth a damn, and most of their hardware can be considered "counterfeit" safely.)
 
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