rotating inner "C"

[sdryde]

is it hard to do this, how do you go about this operation, I once saw somethig on this and they essentially grind the welds out, heat the "c" and rotate, then weld back into place. is this right ?

[Mr.OverKill]

is it hard to do this, how do you go about this operation, I once saw somethig on this and they essentially grind the welds out, heat the "c" and rotate, then weld back into place. is this right ?pritty much.

[Dan Fredrickson]

The real key is trying to make them match.....exactly

[sdryde]

i figured that would be the hardest part

[GSequoia]

And also those welds aren't exactly easy to grind out...

It's a lot of work. More than I'd generally care to do in fact unless I were changing C's or had awsome C's already.

[sdryde]

the deal is I built a linked front end that produces 23 inches of travel and at full droop the pinion angle is out of control, so to be able to regain 4wd I need to change that angle so I can put in a drive shaft.... any ideas??

[GSequoia]

Well first of all you'll have to rotate the differential, not C's.

Second why not just cut off the UCA / LCA brackets and re-attach a few degrees in the proper direction? You'll have to go with a comprimise angle...

[BrettM]

he'll have to rotate the differential and the Cs if he wants to change his pinion angle but leave his caster angle alone.

I did mine, it took 2 hours (besides pulling the axle) and wasn't hard.

[GSequoia]

I was just assuming if he was talking about his 23" of downtravel his rig was to the point that castor really doesn't matter anymore :D

[HTeK]

The real key is trying to make them match.....exactly


Bingo - and dont rely on a cheap angle finder to set this. Ask me how i know.

I had really good luck using a combination between a thin cutoff wheel and a grinding wheel. A sturdy BFH will also come in handy. Like brett, it only took me about 2 hours to get mine off.

-jm

[IntrepidXJ]

http://chicago4x4.net/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=5

[53guy]

what kind of angle finders are you all using? The only decent ones I can seem to find are cheap ones.

[CRASH]

the deal is I built a linked front end that produces 23 inches of travel and at full droop the pinion angle is out of control, so to be able to regain 4wd I need to change that angle so I can put in a drive shaft.... any ideas??


Where did you find 23" travel shocks, is what I'd like to know? I max my 1310 CV with 12" of travel, 5" up and 7" down.

Hell, most 1 million dollar, 2 wheel drive Trophy Trucks have about 24" of travel, so I'm really curious to see your setup.

[Skullver]

Where did you find 23" travel shocks, is what I'd like to know? I max my 1310 CV with 12" of travel, 5" up and 7" down.

Hell, most 1 million dollar, 2 wheel drive Trophy Trucks have about 24" of travel, so I'm really curious to see your setup.
no kidding, I've heard King makes shocks with up to 30" of travel, lets see some pics of said 23" of travel.

[CRASH]

King lists only up to 18" travel, which is 30" compressed and 48" extended. :shocked: I'm sure with the proper application of $$$ you can have them build you a 23" travel shock. I'd guess 37" compressed and 60" extended! :shocked: :shocked:

[Skullver]

King lists only up to 18" travel, which is 30" compressed and 48" extended. :shocked: I'm sure with the proper application of $$$ you can have them build you a 23" travel shock. I'd guess 37" compressed and 60" extended! :shocked: :shocked:
I knew I just saw this ad where they list up to 30" stroke on the pot this am, I'm sure they are customish and cost a very pretty penny though.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a230/skullver/DSCN1091.jpg

[BRIANHO13]

If you move the shocks up a radius arm set up you don't actually need all that much stroke to get to 23" of travel.

I would still like to see the set up though.

[cracker]

FWIW, Currie completely cuts off the knuckle with the axle tube inside, rotates them, and butt welds them back on at your new castor.

[XJEEPER]

Hmmmm, that's interesting. :rolleyes:

[53guy]

FWIW, Currie completely cuts off the knuckle with the axle tube inside, rotates them, and butt welds them back on at your new castor.


Wow, sounds kinda....iffy, but I guess that currie won't screw it up a whole lot now will they? At least for what you're being charged. Out of curiosity, how do you know they just cut the axle tube and butt weld it?

[cracker]

Wow, sounds kinda....iffy, but I guess that currie won't screw it up a whole lot now will they? At least for what you're being charged. Out of curiosity, how do you know they just cut the axle tube and butt weld it?

They will tell you that if you talk to them. They have jigs all for it to make it perfect. When it is all said and done it comes out welded up beautifully. I didn't ask about what they charge for the turning but they charge $150 to burn a couple of inner C's on.

[53guy]

I think I'd rather stick with cutting the welds off and then turning the C's instead of cutting the tube. Its gotta be a stronger choice.

[Root Moose]

They will tell you that if you talk to them. They have jigs all for it to make it perfect. When it is all said and done it comes out welded up beautifully. I didn't ask about what they charge for the turning but they charge $150 to burn a couple of inner C's on.
Interesting. Do you know if they sleeve it or anything?

[OT]

I think I'd rather stick with cutting the welds off and then turning the C's instead of cutting the tube. Its gotta be a stronger choice.
As long as there's full penetration and minimal HAZ on the weld, it should be stronger than the rest of the tube.
I think I'd use this method before cutting the welds out of a C.
Of course, I've done neither, so I could be totally full of sh*t.

[cracker]

Interesting. Do you know if they sleeve it or anything?

They don't sleeve it but they do put little braces on the bottom of the inner Cs

Personally, if you see the finished product, I do't think one would hesitate using an axle that was done this way.

[XJEEPER]

Of course, I've done neither, so I could be totally full of sh*t.

This screams New Sig line :D

[Ramsey]

They don't sleeve it but they do put little braces on the bottom of the inner Cs

Personally, if you see the finished product, I do't think one would hesitate using an axle that was done this way.
any pics handy?

[cracker]

any pics handy?

Not of a turned C but I do of my front axle.

http://beta.propichosting.com/FileHandler.ashx?pa=501326&sub=195&timecode=632959236248906250&checkref=1

I don't have one of the inner c alone handy (not at home).

[cracker]

A lot of housings are not straight (anymore). Currie butt welds the inner Cs on to ensure they are perfectly straight with the diff (assuming the axle is not too off). The have an elaborate jig that allows them perfection when performing this axle sugery.

I don't personally see a problem with this procedure and my axle seems to be holding up fine.

[Root Moose]

I don't personally see a problem with this procedure and my axle seems to be holding up fine.

I probably wouldn't have an issue with an outfit like Currie doing it this way. Not sure I'd trust my own amateur welding skill to it.

[XJEEPER]

Guess the options are:

1. Grind, grind, grind..........grind, grind,GRIND! POUND, POUND, POUND..............finally! Clean up, set caster to proper angle, pre-heat, weld, post-heat....gusset just for grins.

2. Build a fancy jig, chop axle tubes with metal bandsaw, set caster to proper angle, chamfer tube to allow proper penetration, weld tubes back together, gusset at joint/knuckle.

I'd trust either if done properly. If you're not gonna perform this mod in volume, Option 1 is likely the better choice......unless your time is worth $0 and you have too much of it anyway..........

[CRASH]

Where did you find 23" travel shocks, is what I'd like to know? I max my 1310 CV with 12" of travel, 5" up and 7" down.

Hell, most 1 million dollar, 2 wheel drive Trophy Trucks have about 24" of travel, so I'm really curious to see your setup.


Still waiting for pics on the 23" travel front end......my wife is jealous, and says I need 23", or else. :eek:

[tealcherokee]

Still waiting for pics on the 23" travel front end......my wife is jealous, and says I need 23", or else. :eek:

theyre never going to come....

or he means 23" total, over both sides. i was topping and bottoming out 12" shocks, and my jonny joints were getting very close to being maxed out.

[sdryde]

this is the best pic I have---triangulated three link 23 inches of vertical wheel travel---with fox 2.5-16 res--- the top of the shock is mounted at the fire wall to create the proper geometry to get those 23 incheshttp://www.naxja.org/forum/http://img343.imageshack.us/img343/376/suspensionpicxm0.th.jpg (http://img343.imageshack.us/my.php?image=suspensionpicxm0.jpg)

[sdryde]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/http://img344.imageshack.us/img344/5696/frontjeeprf0.th.jpg (http://img344.imageshack.us/my.php?image=frontjeeprf0.jpg)

[sdryde]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/http://img305.imageshack.us/img305/6749/sidejeepbv1.th.jpg (http://img305.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sidejeepbv1.jpg)

[Fullsizexj]

Where did you find 23" travel shocks, is what I'd like to know? I max my 1310 CV with 12" of travel, 5" up and 7" down.

Hell, most 1 million dollar, 2 wheel drive Trophy Trucks have about 24" of travel, so I'm really curious to see your setup.
you can get it out of an 18" travel shock, it is just a matter of what angle you mount the shock, with enough angle the suspension will drop a ways before it reaches a point that the shock begins to extend at the same rate as the travel, although you would have to run some heavy spring rates

[sdryde]

I run a 250 over 500 for the spring rates